Battery Type

The battery just went dead in my boat and it's time for a new one. There are two different types, regular and deep cycle. The guy at the battery store suggested the regular start batter, 1000 cranking with 115 minutes.

What does everyone else use? We just have the stock X-10 stereo, cd, amp, sub and four speakers. Ballast system is three pumps.

The Battery I pulled out didn't have any info on it or I'd just get the same specs.

A deep cycle battery will provide better service if you run the battery down on a regular basis. An example of that is if you run the stereo for long periods of time with the engine off.

If you don't deep cycle the battery then you are better off with just a standard starting battery.

Rod

We'll sit around and listen to the stereo for an hour or so sometimes when we're on the water. Does that count as a long period of time?

both, then you don't have to worry.

I bought an Optima Blue Top for cranking. I think alot of people use the yellow top for stereos.

I quit using Optimas even though they are one of the better batteries. I switched to a military spec battery made by Hawker called the Odyssey. They are the new AGM style that many of the police cars and ambulances are also installing. Mine was $238 to my door, but that is cheaper than two Optimas and takes up less space.

Sounds like the perfect application for an Optima Blue Top Dual-Purpose. Essentially, it's a deep cycle battery that still puts out 750 cold cranking amps -- plenty for starting. I just put one in my 1999 ProStar and love it.

Adios,
Pete

I've got only a I/O, but I am having trouble with volage drop even with the motor running. If I hit the trim, my cd player will shut off. My voltage meter in the dash reads around 11 volts, but accross the battery with a digital meter I'm getting above 13 volts. I have tried hooking two batteries in parallel, but it didn't seem to help the radio sutting off. Has anyone had this type of trouble?

Kyle, your problem is similar to mine - did you find a solution? The wires right at the meter read 13-14 volts, but the gauge reads 10-11 volts. Tried two new gauges and nothing different. Used to be just fine. Not sure if after installing a battery combiner that would cause it for some reason?

kyle and trdehmer....My boat just started doing the same thing after having a new deck installed....never did it before...the deck give a little more power....4x50 as apposed to 4x35 with the last one...not sure what is causing it....If you find out, please post the results

its probably long runs of cheap wire. high output stereo over taxing the stock wiring ststem. try running your power {yellow} directly to the battery. and leave the red where it is.and your ground too.

We've got a similar issue with our Epic: good 14 volts back at the battery, but the dash computer indicates 11-12. At that level the computer sets off low voltage alarms (which will trip the Accuski among other things). The answer is to either replace or augment the existing dash power supply with larger gauge wire.

Corrosion can disrupt power as well, so be on the lookout for flakey connections at the terminal blocks, etc.

I also seem to be having a similar problem with a merc I/O, seems volts are good at battery and alternator but low (12 or less at gauge) so im thinking possible loose connection or corrosion somewhere?? Most likely not long runs of cheap wire as this is all stock stuff that worked fine at one point of time.