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Old     (kbob)      Join Date: Aug 2009       08-26-2009, 2:07 PM Reply   
I'm new to the forum and could use some advice. I recently bought two Seachoice 2000 GPH Bilge Pumps for my Fat Seat and two smaller pumps for my bow sack. I pieced together what I could find at home depot to hopefully make the Seachoice pumps work. Do you have thoughts or suggestion on this set up and is there anything missing in my system diagram? Thanks in advance!

Old     (andrewjet)      Join Date: Jan 2003       08-26-2009, 2:38 PM Reply   
Dude..that looks great! I need to learn more also so lets keep this tread going. Jet
Old     (jtnz)      Join Date: Sep 2007       08-26-2009, 3:35 PM Reply   
Safety Shut Offs? PVC, or even better Brass, in case of emergency. If one of those adapters busts off you'll have a big hole in the bottom of your boat and no way to stop the water.

Edit: Should have read the key first looks as though you may have a shut off before the first 2 pumps. I though the > indicated direction of flow. Looks good in that case.

(Message edited by jtnz on August 26, 2009)
Old     (srh00z)      Join Date: Jun 2003       08-26-2009, 4:09 PM Reply   
I thought this was going to be a little more redneck. That looks pretty good. We used to use 100 lb tractor weights times four for some non-water weight. I always thought that was kind of redneck.
Old     (jimmy_z)      Join Date: Jun 2009       08-26-2009, 7:36 PM Reply   
I thought this was redneck ballast?????

Old     (cadunkle)      Join Date: Jul 2009       08-27-2009, 5:38 AM Reply   
What has been seen cannot be unseen...
Old     (kirk)      Join Date: May 2003       08-27-2009, 6:28 AM Reply   
I think my breakfast just came back up.
Old     (adam4x4)      Join Date: Jan 2009       08-27-2009, 7:24 AM Reply   
Thats for lake where you can not run ballast.
X2 the breakfast coming up.
Old     (johnny_jr)      Join Date: Mar 2006       08-27-2009, 8:17 AM Reply   
I had a similar setup and had a very, very hard time getting it to prime when starting to fill. Sometimes 5 mins just to get started, but once it did it filled quickly.
Old     (kbob)      Join Date: Aug 2009       08-27-2009, 8:27 AM Reply   
Well I haven't started building it yet, so i'm open to suggestions on how to set it up. I didn't think priming would be an issue because the thru hull fitting connected to P1 and P2 is below the water line. I guess I could drive in reverse to prime it haha!
Old     (ccryder)      Join Date: Apr 2002       08-27-2009, 10:20 AM Reply   
It all looks good. What type of check valves are you planning on using? Most of the check valves I have seen are spring loaded with a spring pressure that is very hard for this type of pump to open. If you could route the hoses in a manner to go up and over a high spot then back down to the area needed to eliminate the need for checks, then you would not have to worry about the pressure drop through the valve.

Just a thought if you have trouble with flow.
Old     (johnny_jr)      Join Date: Mar 2006       08-27-2009, 10:33 AM Reply   
Keller been there done that, reverse does not really help much. The only way to be safe is to mount the thru hull bellow water line as you stated and mount the pump lower then the thru hull, if the pump is above the thru hull it will not prime. Struggled with my Sanger for 2 years with a very similar set up. New owner has replaced them with tsunami pumps and has been good ever since.
Old     (kbob)      Join Date: Aug 2009       08-27-2009, 11:26 AM Reply   
Thanks for the Tips!

Here are the check valves I was thinking about using: 061

Technically they are Swing Check Valves so I hopefully won't get any restriction on flow. I've also seen bronze swing check valves at home depot.
Old     (kbob)      Join Date: Aug 2009       08-27-2009, 11:49 AM Reply   
Does anyone know how to access the switches board on the dash in a 94 Prostar 205? I bought some rocker switches for my pumps and need to wire them in. Does the face plate (First Pic) just pop off when you take the screws out? Should I run a separate set of wires and fuses from the battery or just hook them up to the existing switch board?
Old     (skibum69)      Join Date: Aug 2004       08-27-2009, 12:13 PM Reply   
The face plate does come off when you take out the screws, although it may take some fidgiting to get the switches, breakers and wires to all come out. I would swap out the two acc. switches(if you are not using them) for 3 position switches so you can have fill and empty seperate for the two sacs. I am making all new billet plates for my dash on my MC to account for all the switches I am adding, a post and pictures to come on that.
Old     (kbob)      Join Date: Aug 2009       08-27-2009, 2:08 PM Reply   
I've seen several posts on here where the thru hull fitting is in between the exhaust pipes either on the bottom or on the transom. It seems like the shutoff valve would be hard to access. Is the engine compartment a better place for the thru hull fitting in that respect. Would I have a hard time with priming if it was in the engine compartment?
Old     (slappie)      Join Date: Jan 2004       08-27-2009, 2:32 PM Reply   
You can get some pretty neat billet plates and switches from this guy. I've never used him but the Jeep guys really like his work. You can get custom lettering/engraving, etc.
Old     (jtnz)      Join Date: Sep 2007       08-27-2009, 6:06 PM Reply   
I've heard of people having issues with sucking exhaust gas into the ballast intakes if they are too close to the exhaust.
Old     (ferral)      Join Date: Sep 2007       08-27-2009, 10:26 PM Reply   
Here's mine:


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