Amps, Batteries and Alternators

I need some help!

I Have the following audio gear that i need some help setting up.

Fusion IP500 Headunit
Kicker KX850 Amp (4 channel)
Fusion Fe402 amp (170 rms)

2 wetsounds XS650 for the cockpit
2 Kicker KMT6 for the tower
12" Fusion Sub

I have installed it all and wired it up properly.
I have 4awg power and ground cables going to each amp via a fused distribution block.

At the moment I only have a single battery and a 65amp alternator. I know that the alternator will get trashed if i run the system for any legnth of time at high volume as it simply cant put out enough power. I dont play the stereo when im not boarding or cruising. I board on the sea so safety and reliability from the battery and alternater is very important.

My question is this-

I know i am going to have to install a dual battery setup but what can i do to prevent overloading the alternater and trashing it?

Tom,

Use a SurePower 1314 combiner/separator (uni-direction version only) on a dual-battery set-up. This will serve to protect and preserve your alternator from an inordinate load when and if the voltage would begin to drop off due to the stereo battery depletion.

Get very dependent on an AC shore charger to restore and maintain your dual batteries. You want a dual-bank multi-stage smart charger with a capacity of 10 to 15 percent of your total battery(s) amp/hour rating(s).

Supplement the SurePower with two Perko simple on/off switches so that you have three distinctive models, ie: Automotive operation, emergency bypass and fixed isolation for AC shore charging.

Keep the helm buss, alternator and starter on the starting battery. Shift 100 percent of the stereo components and nothing else over to the dedicated stereo battery.

This system is comprehensive and superior to all other ACR/VSR options. This system is intended for heavy stereos specifically rather than addressing the draw of light instrumentation on a fishing or fish & ski boat.

David
Earmark Marine

*Automatic operation (not Automotive)

Dave, How would you wire the 2 simple perkos and the sure power?

Thanks David.

How does the surepower protect the alternator from the huge demand from the stereo?

I work out that my stereo needs roughly 60amps to play at volume. The engine itself mst need 20amps for ignition, fuel pump, power steering pump. That's 15 amps more than the alt can supply.

Would using a battery not connected to the alt that is charged on shore be a viable option?

Thanks for your help.

Tom,

If your total demand exceeds the alternator then the voltage will begin to drop as you deplete the stereo battery. If the overall voltage drop affects the starting or sensing side then the stereo battery and the stereo will be automatically isolated from your starting battery and alternator. This preserves your starting battery. It also protects your alternator from an inordinate load comprised of a 60 amp stereo plus as much as 25 amps of draw by a depleted stereo battery. Once disconnected your stereo might eventually shut off due to low voltage and the SurePower may never re-combine. And that is where your dependency on shore AC charger restoration comes in. But in the process you'll never get stranded and your alternator won't get as hot as an exhaust manifold. Since music is transient in nature it may never come to this. But if it does there's no questioning where your priorities should fall between continued stereo play or potential alternator failure (at minimum serious wear and tear).

On another note, this is where engineering efficiency into every phase of your system design really pays dividends. A bass-reflex enclosure might save 3 dB in equivalent amplifier power and Class D amplifiers might save 30 percent of your current draw. This extends to source unit selection, installation techniques, system tuning procedures, wire & cable, speaker selection, connectors, and more that impact your total system efficiency. And as a byproduct you'll find the more efficient systems actually sound better too.

David
Earmark Marine

Just to make sure I understand correctly: If the battery voltage drops below a certain point, the SurePower disconnects the batteries and the alternator will only charge the starting battery. The accessory battery then just runs until it is drained? Is there anything I should install to cut off the battery before it is damaged or will the amps cut off well before this point?

Thanks for the input. As for my charging habit's I didn't really go into enough detail on that I guess. I did regularly place a bulk charger on them both especially if we cranked the volume a lot. To the best of my knowledge the battery was only brought down to parade rest once and after that weekend I had it on the full size charger for over 24 hours (if I recall the charger I use starts at like 15-20 amps and automatically goes down from there as needed, and it's in an AGM mode) The float charger was only placed on the boat for the winter when I didn't even look at the thing for 3 months. When I put the boat up for the year I assumed the battery was still OK since the stereo still played etc I just had it in the back of my mind it was not doing as well as it did at the beginning of the year.

As to them being overpriced, sure I guess, but they seem to be pretty much in line with the others I've seen that have similar stats ie the Deka. The biggest difference I see between the Deka and the Kinetic is that the Deka is designed as a deep cycle as well as having the reserve capacity. I'm looking now for the best place to get the Deka.

Next stop alternator upgrade...