DHM Trailer brake trouble?

I noticed while towing my boat/trailer was slaming back and forward and the brakes didnt seem to be working. I checked the brake fluid and yes it was dry.

My trailer is a 2002 DHM Tandem with disk brakes on only 1 axel with a UFP actuator

I was wondering if anyone has some helpfull tip's on trouble shooting a leak. I dont see a brake fluid puddle or anything. Just wondering if there was a common problem with these trailers.

Firstly, do a visual inspection on all the fittings and tubing. There should be a flexible hose coming from the master cylinder, that connects to hard tubing and will Tee and go to each of the brakes. Check everything over from the master cylinder to each caliper and look for wet spots on the trailer frame and calipers. Also look for busted hoses and tubing.

If you don't find the obvious culprit, just go through with a wrench and tighten all the compression fittings, they should be nice and snug, but not overtight. Also check the bleeder valves on the calipers. You may also want to check your calipers and pads. Jack up each braking wheel where the suspension bolts on, never in the middle of the axle and remove the wheel.

With the wheel off you can get at the caliper bolt on the back, it should be one bolt, but may be two if you have the upgraded brakes. They are self adjusting and float on that bolt. Check the pads for wear and make sure the caliper pistons have not come out and the boots are in decent shape. If all is well put them back and put a bit of lock tite on the main bolt and tighten it down.

On the actuator itself, you may also have a bad shock, this shock helps balance the master cylinder and softens those hard blows. You may simply want to refill the cylinder, bleed the brakes, and try hand pumping it and looking to see if the brakes are still leaking.

I suggest replacing any and all parts that look shadey. I recently replaced the entire braking system on my 2002 trailer, they simply wear out. I did it myself for about 700, everything except the lines, but i needed rotors too. I dealt with DHM to get my parts and they are top notch and their website is the best, good pics so I could match the parts. You can trash the actuator if the shock and the master cylinder is shot. It's a pretty easy replacement though, One hose and some retaining rings.

UFP's website has PDF guides on the calipers and actuator as well as bleeding instructions and install instructions. Good luck and post how it all turns out.

Oh crap, I just noticed it's Grant. Hope this helps!!

http://www.dhmtrailers.com/online/home.php
http://www.ufpnet.com/

Too much power to too many W7's for extended periods can vaporize the brake fluid, you will need to remove your stereo system to get the brakes working again... just kiddn.

Call George at DHM, he will set you straight, 916-688-7767

I just changed the backing plates on my 1995 DHM trailer when the brakes started having issues. They were not that expensive, you will need a mighty vac to bleed the brakes.

Grant, I second Mike's suggestion to call DHM. I have dealt with them on a few occasions. DHM has excellent customer service! If you need any parts, let me know. I'm taking the trailer there on Monday.

And they will let you change parts out right in front of there shop. HA HA HA HEEEE (inside joke)

Brick; give me the 411 on the trailer problem from Powell

Bad rotor on the starboard side, plus additional pain and suffering.

Hey Grant. If you haven't had any trailer problems up to this point on an '02 I'd say you're doing pretty well!! My guess is one of your hub cylinders has failed and you lost your fluid through it. Obviously just going through the DHM guys would be easiest, but it appears the UFP site has good info if you want to tackle it yourself.

I've found the Champion Trailers site to have excellent articles on troubleshooting and maintaining trailer brakes if you're interested.

http://www.championtrailers.com/techsup.html

Grant,

I went through the same thing, the brake line it'self got a rust pinhole and fluid was pooling inside the steel tube. I disconnected the line at the electric brake bypass solenoid and then filled the MS, and pumped til the MS would not move.Satisfied that it was down stream, I put a clear hose over the brake line and blew, had my kid listen for a hissing sound, and then when he pointed out where the sound was coming from I knew it was the line.

Got a replacement from George for like 18 bucks, and replaced it. Good to go. I know my trailer was used in brackish, if not outright salt water, before I bought it, but I was surprised that the line rusted like that. I have a 1979 TRail-rite trailer, that had the original brake lines up until last year, and Only were replaced because I changed from drum to disk.

henry

(Message edited by hsmunoz on September 29, 2005)

Ok this is the dammage.
The shock in the toung, master cylinder, 2 brake calipers, some seal's ect ect, and $376 dollars and Ill be back down the road! That is with me doing all the work.

I took a look inside the master cylinder @ the toung and its all rusty looking with a bunch greese looking gunk. The caliper on the drivers side is all wet with brake fluid, So I figured the passenger side was on it way out soon so I replaced that one as well. I dont know how this happed but it looks as if its been bad for a while. I dont know why all of a sudden I noticed the tailer crashing into the back of the truck on take off's and stop's Mabey the brakes had been going bad and then the shock was taking a beating and then when it finally gave out I noticed it. Good thing is I can fix it in my garage no problem. Thanks for your help

I was told by George at DHM not to grease the inside of the tongue where the actuator slides in and out. It kind of relies on a bit of friction to help in from sliding too quickly. We ended up replacing the entire actuator as ours was corroded and basically shot as well.

My UFP calipers simply just went to hell. The boots rotted and one of the pistons came out too far when the pads wore all the way down. We grinded our rotors to crap in the process. Dumb Wakeboarders!!!

Replacing everything is actually a decent experience and will help "down the road" if any other problems arise. I also got some experience packing the bearings and replacing the seals. Felt better knowing how to trouble shoot the trailer that holds my precious boat on it.

Flux: Yea knowing that you can fix your trailer should somthing happen is good. My trailer has broke twice. Both times it broke right at the launch ramp at our lake house. It worked out perfict because I was able to work/fix the trailer while the boat was off of it.

First time it broke the leaf springs snapped.
Second time it broke, (3 weeks ago) the drivers side caliper fell off.

No lake house for me (weeping), so we hit the road for weekenders and holidays. I have become a trailer maintenance freak. Considering that the total package is attached by a little ball and holds my most valuable material posession other than my house, I ain't risking a thing.

My boat maintenance schedule now includes my trailer. Your post reminds me that I need to repaint my leaf springs, they are a tad rusty.

I put a little lock tite on the caliper through bolts. I kind of want them staying in place, you know??

I have been workin on the trailer. I took the actuator all apart, What I found was. my shock was blown apart. My master cylinder was full of gunk. So I took the actuator all apart and repalced everything and disconected the brake lines at the calipers. The dirvers side caliper brake line had a break in it at the caliper So thats where all my brake fluid went! I blew the brake lines out with air and put the actuator back together. Next I will replace the calipers and blead the brakes.

I would rebuild the calipers if possible, but I am cheap like that

Peter: It turns out nothing was wrong with my calipers. I sould have taken everything apart before I orderd from DHM. I wanted to do everything today so I thought it would be better to replace them and be done with it them to have to second guess. Im all finished. My lug nuts were so stuck I needed a breaker bar, I put anit-seze on the studs so that shouldnt be a problem. Im gonna bring a breaker bar lug wrench with me from now on.

Grant, I am sure you won't forget to, but retorque the lugs after 100 miles and maybe again in 800 miles.

Yea Im gonna do that and shoot some more grease into the hub's. Whats the torque that they should be tighten to?

BTW if anyone need's the old (perfictley good calipers) you can have them.