Replacing Bunks on Trailer

I'm going to be replacing the wood bunks on my trailer this weekend. The marine carpet kits I ordered came in. I was thinking of using a marine glue and then stapling the carpet to the bottom side of the boards.

Would you reccommend using the glue, glue and staples, or just go the staple route?

My brother used glue and staples on his and they looked better then factory. He wrapped the entire bunk. leaving no exposed wood on the bottom. When I do mine I will do them the same way.

Glue and staples FTW. I just did my bunks and did exactly as described above - they look and work great! I used indoor outdoor carpet from Lowes along with I/O carpet glue and 1/2" staples. Be sure you let the glue dry good before you get the new bunks wet.

Only bad thing about using glue is that eventually you will need to replace the carpet again, and the old will be glued to the bunks - may require new wood for the next time. Also need use stainless steel staples otherwise the rust will get you

Glue and staples. Did mine last year. Make sure to use stainless steel staples, too. Regular staples probably wouldn't last a season.

You also need to use stainless or at least galvanized lag bolts. The chemicals in treated lumber attack regular hardware.

Personally I wouldn't bother putting new carpet on old wood if/when I do them again. Wood is cheap.

The carpet will wear longer if it is glued in place. I don;t know about y'all's trailers, but my OE carpet was glued in place. Also, my pressure treated boards only cost about $6 ea. So small cost there.

Additionally, if you make new bunks, you don't have to have the boat off the trailer for the entire operation. Just long enough to swap the bunks... And like I said above, you want the glue to dry very well before you get it wet. The glue I used recommended 5 days drying time, and I can't have my boat off the trailer for 5 days.

What everyone else said. An easy way to do it is make your bunks up in advance if you need new boards. Strap 'em along side your current bunks and go to the lake. Remove the new ones and launch the boat. Replace 'em in the lot, takes about fifteen minutes, cut the old ones in half and throw in dumpster. Done two this way and works like a charm.

What glue are you guys using? Getting ready to do mine and I'm replacing the wood also.

Also do most of you overlap the carpet on the bottom and by how much?

Don't overlap the carpet but cover all the wood on the bottom. My brother used regular auto upolstery glue on his. Not sure but I think it was3M upolstery glue. Like stated above new bunks and carpet make for an easy swap.

I left my carpet open on toward the bottom so water could flow out

I pre-cut everything, carpeted it all and then let it sit for a couple days to dry really well. I charged 2 batteries for the cordless drill, got me a nut driver attachment for the drill and went at it. Pulled the boat to the ramp launched it and replaced the bunk in about 30min or so. Only bad part was lookin like a tool workin on the trailer in the boat ramp parking lot. lol

Sweet, what everyone mentioned above is exaclty my plan. Change them out on the ramp.

Anyone used a bead of silicone around the lags to help seal out some of the water getting around the hole?

is everyone using lag bolts?? http://www.icanfixupmyhome.com/images/LagScrew.jpg

I have heard some people use bolts and counter sink them


I need to do this before we head down to Lake of the Ozarks.... great thread... also are you using PT 2x4s or PT 2x6s?

Use whatever size boards the trailer came with.

Countersinking carriage bolts is obviously better, but seemed like a lot of unnecessary trouble considering the factory lag bolts on my trailer went 12 seasons with no problems. You would have to clamp the raw boards to the trailer, match drill all the holes, take them off, countersink, insert the carriage bolts, then carpet over them before you could finally install. This would pretty much eliminate the "swap them in the parking lot" option, unless you wanted to do it in two trips and put your old bunks back on in between.

waht size lag bolts did you use?

The lag screws that are from the factory on my trailer are 3/4" and the boards are 2x6's

I would not want to do it at the ramp. If so bring every tool you think you need and then some. Mine were not that easy. Also if you have any free loaders that ride with you an extra set of hands would be good.

Has anyone tried using material like Trexx instead of pressure treated wood?

m-

Trexx has a much smaller load rating than trexx... at least thats what I have been told... stick with your PT 2x's

I've only brought two tools to do both i've done, a cordless drill w/ socket & adapter & bit and a saw. Removed old bunks, layed new in placed, marked 'em, flipped and drilled, filled holes with silicone and bolted in place. Cut up old ones and tossed. Took no time at all although i did have an assistant both times. Don't need new lag bolts unless you feel the need.

For sure use pressure treated wood. If you do the carriage bolt from the top down, double nut or nyloc nut them or at the very least some silicone on the threads of the bolt right where the nut is to keep it fastened. I've seen them work loose raise up and do some pertty good damage to the gel. Stainless lags (easier) into PT will outlast the bunk carpet. And yes glue the carpet so it cant bw pushed around on the boards. You dont have to worry about taking the carpet off later because stripping the boards is too labor intensive and the wood is cheap. Easier to just cut boards, carpet and install...