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Old     (brycejb328)      Join Date: Aug 2009       10-25-2016, 11:07 AM Reply   
Hey WW! I just picked up a 1972 Chevy C10. I am the second owner, very clean truck, original paint with the exception of rockers and a driver side front fender.

The current 350 runs strong, quadrajet carb. I am looking to possibly build it up a little while still having it VERY pump gas and street friendly. Not looking to do anything really deep (keep stock crank, rods, pistons, etc..). Any guidance would be much appreciated. Cam, valvetrain, heads, intake... any specific combinations that will work well??

Beings it is the original engine, should I start with something different? A part of me would hate to start throwing more power at the original engine and have it blow, not sure how important matching numbers are on a truck like this. Summit has 350 SBC engine assemblies for under $1500.... or I could get a junk yard find. Thoughts??
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Old     (bftskir)      Join Date: Jan 2004       10-25-2016, 11:17 AM Reply   
You would ad the most value by staying as stock as possible with that truck since it does appear unmolested
Old     (brycejb328)      Join Date: Aug 2009       10-25-2016, 11:25 AM Reply   
That was definitely my original thought and the primary reason I bought it to begin with. I wanted a 1967-72 that looked like it did when it rolled off the assembly line, no chopping, lowering, etc... Now that I have it, I kinda have the bug to do some engine work.

Maybe keeping it to simple bolt on stuff would be best... anything that can be reversed leaving no sign of alterations...
Old     (bftskir)      Join Date: Jan 2004       10-25-2016, 11:33 AM Reply   
Post some pics of under hood...detail it to stock new condition...bolt on stuff will just be cheesy. Stick a big block 502 in it if you want more power.
Old     (bftskir)      Join Date: Jan 2004       10-25-2016, 11:35 AM Reply   
I'd be looking for the chrome bumpers
Old     (CALIV210)      Join Date: Jun 2015       10-25-2016, 12:59 PM Reply   
Id be looking into Fuel Injected LS swap. Best bang for the buck hands down and much better drivability .
Old     (CALIV210)      Join Date: Jun 2015       10-25-2016, 1:00 PM Reply   
I forgot to mention that the truck is super cool !!! Maybe add a chrome front bumper and a roll pan out back with a hidden hitch behind the license plate and some Detroit steel wheels . hopefully its a disc brake truck if not power disc brakes would be the first thing I upgraded . Have fun ..im jealous

Last edited by CALIV210; 10-25-2016 at 1:03 PM.
Old     (brycejb328)      Join Date: Aug 2009       10-25-2016, 1:39 PM Reply   
It does seem that LS swap is a popular one and I'm sure the drivability is phenomenal... will it still feel like driving a 1972 C10? If that makes sense.. ha ha. I am genuinely asking, zero experience with how a LS swapped C10 drives. A part of me would hate to take away the nostalgia of the truck.

I do like that plain steel wheel look with the baby moons... seems era correct for the truck...
Old     (denverd1)      Join Date: May 2004       10-25-2016, 1:41 PM Reply   
sweet truck!! If it's running good, why mess with it?

OTOH, what fun is that? These older v8s really wake up with a mild cam and a little head work. open up intake and exhaust and you'll make quite a few more ponies than a stock 350. wouldn't be able to tell anything was ever done.
Old     (WheelerWake)      Join Date: Mar 2013       10-25-2016, 6:33 PM Reply   
I have had and have several vehicles of the vintage. For me, personally I do what I want to with them. When I turn wenches on them, it's not with the intent of ever selling. Different people are different, but for me, a matching number vehicle doesn't add any value.
Old     (cadunkle)      Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: NJ       10-25-2016, 6:46 PM Reply   
What's the factory compression ratio? Could be very low as 72 is getting into smog era. If so you'll want to up it to around 9.5:1, focus on dynamic compression though. You'll want it around 8.5:1 for 91 octane, you can squeeze a bit more if 93 is available in your area, closer to 7.5:1 for 87 with a safe margin. Beyond that, heads that flow. I'm not a Chevy guy so I don't know what's out there for those but I know there are plenty of options for very cheap so I wouldn't bother porting what you have as far better flowing heads ready to run probably cost marginally more than a valve job. Figure your HP goal and waht you want to use the truck for and work from there. Depending on your goals and what you have it may be as simple as a new cam, straight up double roller, intake, Holley, and headers to de-smog it and wake it up.

I don't know the market on Chevy trucks but with Fords 2wd trucks aren't worth much, I'd imagine Chevy is similar. That's a real nice rust free appearing truck you have so that adds value, but it looks like a plain jane 2wd small block pickup that they probably made so many of that there's little value in originality, at least down to numbers matching driveline. A nice rust free plain jane model of a desirable vehicle is better than a rare optioned desirable vehicle IMO, as I'd rather build a mean big block and put a TKO behind it and have a sleeper over keeping it bone stock.
Old     (dococ)      Join Date: Mar 2002       10-25-2016, 7:23 PM Reply   
Nice truck! My father-in-law has a 1970 version completely stock except for bumpers and alloy wheels. I was driving it one day and a guy came up to me all excited to talk about it, he was an enthusiast and had owned several of that vintage. The guy was telling me the stock bumpers actually are hard to find, as there was some design problem with the bumper brackets or maybe the attachment point to the bumpers or something that caused them to deteriorate prematurely. I don't recall the details, as it was long ago, but the guy seemed to know all about these trucks, and he was saying that finding nice period-correct chrome bumpers with brackets might actually be a challenge. So if that is true, you might wanna keep your eyes open for some in case you get lucky.
Old     (brycejb328)      Join Date: Aug 2009       11-03-2016, 2:24 PM Reply   
My head is spinning with options for this truck. I think I will eventually have a local engine builder do a 383 with vortec heads, intake, carb, MSD ignition, harmonic balancer, flex plate and maybe some other odds and ends were included. 430 hp and 480 lbf they get out of that configuration. runs $4800

Seems any option I came up with where I would be piecing together my own set-up simply wasn't worth the time when I can have a builder put something together that is tried and true. I'll update this thread once I get the swap in motion!!
Old     (cowwboy)      Join Date: Jul 2008       11-04-2016, 5:28 AM Reply   
http://www.brphotrods.com/products/6...uck/index.html
Personally, I would rather throw a 6.2 L92 motor in there.
You would get nearly the same HP but with a much newer fuel injected motor. With tons of HP potential.
Old     (jonblarc7)      Join Date: Jul 2006       11-04-2016, 6:13 AM Reply   
I was going to say the same thing about finding a used L92 but did want to get flamed for using a modern engine in a classic. Some of you guys are sensitive about that stuff.
Old     (jonblarc7)      Join Date: Jul 2006       11-04-2016, 6:14 AM Reply   
I would be cheaper than 4800.00
Old     (CALIV210)      Join Date: Jun 2015       11-04-2016, 6:28 AM Reply   
Some folks are intimidated by a fuel injection swap I know I am but I wouldn't shy away from it . There's something sweet about a perfect running EFI engine . Plus with the right exhaust they still sound oh so sweet !! If you stick with a SBC maybe consider something like this instead of a carb http://fitechefi.com/products/30003/ . I was real close to installing one on my old Malibu Skier before I bought my Sanger . I think for $4800 you could do a lot more then an old 383. just food for thought its your rig and as long as you love it who cares what we think lol
Old     (brycejb328)      Join Date: Aug 2009       11-04-2016, 7:15 AM Reply   
I think the LS swaps are pretty awesome... A part of me wants to retain the nostalgia of a carb'd engine....

I have read up on some of the swaps... anyone have any good articles or links to threads on LS swaps that I may have missed?
Old     (brycejb328)      Join Date: Aug 2009       11-04-2016, 7:16 AM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by cowwboy View Post
http://www.brphotrods.com/products/6...uck/index.html
Personally, I would rather throw a 6.2 L92 motor in there.
You would get nearly the same HP but with a much newer fuel injected motor. With tons of HP potential.
Nice! I wonder if this works for other engines besides the LH8?
Old     (denverd1)      Join Date: May 2004       11-04-2016, 8:18 AM Reply   
Personally, I'd build the stroker. less than $5K for sure. TBI and call it a day.
Old     (bcrider)      Join Date: Apr 2006       11-04-2016, 8:49 AM Reply   
The truck will always have more long term worth if the original motor is in it being numbers matching. That being said if you want to do a swap just hold on to the motor.....and really it only needs to be the original block. Nothing else matters.
Old     (CALIV210)      Join Date: Jun 2015       11-05-2016, 8:21 AM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by bcrider View Post
The truck will always have more long term worth if the original motor is in it being numbers matching. That being said if you want to do a swap just hold on to the motor.....and really it only needs to be the original block. Nothing else matters.
I dont think that stands as true as it used too . BUT you could always keep all the numbers matching stuff so if you sold it you would have it .
Old     (CALIV210)      Join Date: Jun 2015       11-05-2016, 8:24 AM Reply   
Heres a good read . I kept it because I'm going to eventually do it to my Chevelle .

http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversion...de-1500-a.html
Old     (brycejb328)      Join Date: Aug 2009       11-09-2016, 2:40 PM Reply   
After going back and forth on how I would go about building this to get the best bang for my buck, this opportunity kinda fell into my lap to buy this 2 bolt main short block for a whopping price of $60 from a co-worker. I have researched enough by now to be relatively competent on how much power and torque I want to make and what combinations will work well for this truck... I'll update as I go. Going to tear it down to the bare block and get it to the machine shop to have it honed.

420 ft lbs of torque seems like a pretty obtainable number.
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Old     (denverd1)      Join Date: May 2004       11-10-2016, 8:08 AM Reply   
gonna bore it any? whats the plan for it? 400 ponies will be fun
Old     (jonblarc7)      Join Date: Jul 2006       11-10-2016, 10:40 AM Reply   
Any idea on a cam yet??
Old     (brycejb328)      Join Date: Aug 2009       11-11-2016, 6:10 AM Reply   
Here is a build list of what I am thinking so far...

Vortec heads 12558060
Rocker arm studs ARP 134-7201
Eagle 383 rotating assembly B13454E
Edelbrock 2716 performer intake
Edelbrock thunder 650 carb
Edelbrock 7800 timing set
Comp Beehive Valve Springs
Comp Valve Spring retainers 774-16
Comp cam and lifters (high energy 260H grind) CL12-206-2
Old     (brycejb328)      Join Date: Aug 2009       11-11-2016, 6:12 AM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by denverd1 View Post
gonna bore it any? whats the plan for it? 400 ponies will be fun
its 10 over right now, definitely needs a honing, I won't bore it unless it needs it. If I don't have a "true" 383 by going 30 over, I'm fine with that. I'd rather have the room for a future rebuild if needed.
Old     (denverd1)      Join Date: May 2004       11-14-2016, 7:30 AM Reply   
nice list. cam looks like a good mix of performance and daily duty.

No injection?
Old     (brycejb328)      Join Date: Aug 2009       11-14-2016, 8:12 AM Reply   
going to keep it carb

Still back and forth on head selection. with the cost of the new vortec heads plus the modification costs (rocker studs, springs, retainers, cost to assemble, etc...), gets to be around 500-550 per head versus a set of aluminium heads around $600 per piece (looking at trick flow heads)
Old     (WheelerWake)      Join Date: Mar 2013       11-14-2016, 10:33 AM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by brycejb328 View Post
Comp cam and lifters (high energy 260H grind) CL12-206-2
If it were mine, I'd just use the stock springs/retainers that come on a new set of vortecs. They can handle that cam, no problem. That's what I did. Save some $$$.
Old     (cadunkle)      Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: NJ       11-14-2016, 6:38 PM Reply   
Personally I wouldn't bother with factory iron and the time and efofort (or money) to port them vs aftermarket aluminum for a SBC or SBF. Heads are so cheap for them it's not worth wasting time on factory iron. BBF I have ported heads for several engines, but only bothered with it once on a SBF, just not worth it when you can get better castings you know flow well for basically the same money, and bonus of more detonation resistance from aluminum.
Old     (brycejb328)      Join Date: Aug 2009       11-15-2016, 12:30 PM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by cadunkle View Post
Personally I wouldn't bother with factory iron and the time and efofort (or money) to port them vs aftermarket aluminum for a SBC or SBF. Heads are so cheap for them it's not worth wasting time on factory iron. BBF I have ported heads for several engines, but only bothered with it once on a SBF, just not worth it when you can get better castings you know flow well for basically the same money, and bonus of more detonation resistance from aluminum.
I am really starting to lean that way. I like this kit from Trick Flow https://www.summitracing.com/parts/t...-395/overview/

Not to mention, They are one of the few companies who have actually replied to my questions.

I know you aren't a chevy guy, but any recommendation on brand for a 383 rotating assembly. Been looking at eagle specialties... Any experiences with their stuff?
Old     (WheelerWake)      Join Date: Mar 2013       11-15-2016, 3:30 PM Reply   
I used an Eagle rotating assembly, everything was excellent. Crank journals were spot on. I went internal balanced.
Old     (denverd1)      Join Date: May 2004       11-16-2016, 11:39 AM Reply   
porting a set of heads shouldn't run more than a couple hundo for both, if you had a shop do it. I'd grab the stock heads and have the work done rather than drop 1000 on heads. I got 180 cfm out of a set of ported SBF heads I put on 351W in my last boat. I'm sure Al trick flows are great, but are they $1000 great? Could you even tell with less than .1" lift over stock? doubtful

Last edited by denverd1; 11-16-2016 at 11:43 AM.
Old     (brycejb328)      Join Date: Aug 2009       11-17-2016, 9:36 AM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by denverd1 View Post
porting a set of heads shouldn't run more than a couple hundo for both, if you had a shop do it. I'd grab the stock heads and have the work done rather than drop 1000 on heads. I got 180 cfm out of a set of ported SBF heads I put on 351W in my last boat. I'm sure Al trick flows are great, but are they $1000 great? Could you even tell with less than .1" lift over stock? doubtful
I have no problem with non-ported vortec heads. the engine builders I have spoken to in my area say they can easily make the power I want, but would require different springs, studs versus press in studs... even if the machine shop determines the guides don;t need to be machined down for the cam I want... I'm close to $500 or more (probably more) into a set of iron heads versus $635 for the aluminium trick flow pieces (which they are less when included in the kit).

Whole kit is $1900, loaded aluminum heads, full roller rockers, push rods, lifters, gaskets, cam, timing set, and hardware....

Last edited by brycejb328; 11-17-2016 at 9:42 AM.
Old     (denverd1)      Join Date: May 2004       11-17-2016, 10:35 AM Reply   
makes sense! enjoying the build sir, keep us posted

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