2003 Nautique Ballast Switches Under Dash

Here is what it looks like.
Todd

These switches are cool I am going to Add them to my 02 Air, These switches have cable's that attache to them. They open and close the Seacock's Via cable's. No more opening and closing the Engine cover to open and close the Valve's

Just FYI - These are Flow-rite valve systems. www.flow-rite.com. And, no, I don't work for the company!

I just think their stuff is really cool. I have seen a lot of ballast system installs on these boards that use materials found at home depot.

The flow-rite stuff is so much better!

Does any one know what type of valve to use with this Flow Right System. Im talking about the Valve in front or in back of the "Sea Cock"

I believe you would use the "system 1" valve...

Seems to me that you could easily use a regular heater control valve from some old school american car or truck. I still like the idea of using vacuum controlled valves and remote solenoids. No sparks in the bilge and every motor produces vacuum.

Woe, dudes; slow down.

they are cool valves controls.

Todd,

Did that boat just have the three valves? If there are only three, I don't think that system is going to work very well. The way I see it, there should be six valves and switches; one on each tank's fill and empty.

To fill: both the fill and overflow hoses should be open.

To drain: the fill hose should be off and the drain should be open.

Noel,
I didn't look at the whole system in detail, but I can tell you how it worked.

1. Turned the three valves to open in the above picture.
2. Pushed all three buttons on the dash to start the three pumps to fill the tanks.
3. Waited for the tanks to fill and overflow out the side of the boat.
4. Turned the three valves to closed in the above picture.
5. Pushed the three buttons on the dash to stop the three pumps.
6. Tanks were full and stayed full.
7. To empty the tanks you just pushed and held (for about 1-2 seconds) the three buttons on the dash and water started pumping out the side of the boat.
8. The tanks were now empty.

I believe there are three other valves that you manually just leave open and never touch in the system.

Let me know if I'm wrong on any of this.

Todd

I would strive for one valve for each bag either on the drain or fill side as appropriate.

I had a system that used these parts on my MasterCraft. This system used bags with three hoses (fill, drain, vent). As long as the through hull fittings are above the highest point on the bag when the boat is on plane, no valve is required on the drain/vent hoses (usually ported to the same through hull fitting).

Since the stock bags were near or below the waterline, a valve on the input line was most appropriate to prevent passive filling.

The side sacks were a different issue. The through hull fittings on my boat were just below the rub rail at the rear of the boat. This was a problem for the side sacks because the highest point of the bags was above the level of the fittings while on plane.

On these bags, a valve on the drain/vent line prevents the sack from draining while in transit. A duck bill style check valve prevents the bag from draining back through the fill pump.

I don't have a scanner, or I'd draw a picture and scan it in. I sold the boat, so here are the only photos I have.

The center two valves are on the input side of the stock system. The outside valves were installed to prevent the side sacks from draining.