Wetsounds boat overhaul write-up

This is a quick recap of my WetSounds audio install on my 2010 SANTE 210. I ordered all of my product through Odin at Earmark Audio. If you have had the pleasure of working with him or Earmark, this will come as no surprise to you...if you have not, I fully endorse Odin and his company. He was nothing short of extraordinary in support, taking phone calls, emails and texts. He is a very busy guy, but somehow always makes sure to reach out and help you through your project. Top notch!

My install is nearly complete. I ordered everything through Earmark except the Fosgate wriing:
2 Rev 10 RGB
SYN4 Amp
8 XS-650 RGB
HT-6 Amp
WS-420SQ with Bluetooth and Under Dash Kit
WS RGB Controller
WS 6 Channel RCA
RGB Wiring from Earmark
Fosgate 0 Gauge Amp Kit
Fosgate 12 AWG Speaker wire for REVs

Getting started was brutal. I have the FCT3 Tower and running 12 gauge wire up into and through the tower was difficult. But, like most things, it will eventually get done. If you have the FCT3 Tower and plan to upgrade your wiring, you will need to drill the hole leading into the tower out to allow for the new, larger wire. I used the existing speaker wire for the eight XS-650 speakers, just needed to run the RGB wire to them.

Due to budget constraints, I chose to keep the lower, swivel speaker cans on the tower and replace the Polk speakers with a set of the 650s. The Revs essentially carry 97% of the audio weight on the tower, but it's cool to have a set of swivel speakers on the tower. I have the 650s wired in with the in-boats on the EQ, so I can have some sound coming from the tower if I choose to eliminate the REVs for a short time. I also kept one of the original Polk amps as well as the 10 Polk sub. (both may be upgraded this fall once the riding season is over)

If you choose to order the Rev 10s or 8s with the RGB, be very careful drilling the hole for your speaker wire. I did this in a two step process to ensure I didn't drill to far and into the speaker can. First, I used a small drill bit to create a pilot hole, then stepped up to the bit (instructions recommended a particular size I can't recall) to slowly...(and I mean really slowly) drill out the hole.

Using Odin's instructions (he sent me multiple write-ups Earmark has made) tuning the amps was pretty simple. As was wiring in the EQ, RGB Controller and amps. A good friend of mine helped with the entire project and made much of this easy work as he has 10+years experience in car/boat audio, having managed the largest car audio retailer in my area. We experienced only a few issues during the install and tuning. The LEDS were causing a high pitched wine though the speakers. The easy fix was to change out the source power and ground for the controller, problem solved. We have had some color issues with 2 of the 10 speakers not perfectly matching, working through that now, but it is a minimal issue.

Getting to the important part: how did it sound?
Most of you already know, Wetsounds are incredible. Not only is everything LOUD, but more importantly, clear and crisp. I would estimate the music is twice as loud and 100% cleaner at peak volume than the previous Polk set up. Using the EQ is a breeze and an absolute must have when your audio has the potential Wetsounds gives you. Once your amps are tuned properly, it is nice to be able to adjust the zones as well as tweak the bass, mid and treble as your music selection changes.

The leds are sweet too, definitely fun at night! I have tied in a RBG led strip underneath the supports on the back seat so the floor gets some shine as well. It's a smart move considering the speaker leds in the back will be covered up by people sitting in the seats. I also hooked a switch up in the helm to turn the leds off on the tower at will while leaving the in-boats on. Just in case there is that night that I don't want 'that much attention.'

My previous project over the winter was to install leds on the trailer. Turned out pretty cool, I'll throw a couple of pics up here including that and the WS install. Next on my list is lighting up the rear engine vents. Not sure I am going to put RGB there, it might be overkill, a solid color or subtle white might do the trick. Putting underwater LEDS in soon too, just trying to determine the color, either blue or green. I run on a dirty river, so want to get the best color in the circumstances.

I have only had the boat out once since the install has been complete, I will get better pictures and post back.

Nate,
Very nice system and a good call going with Odin and Earmark Marine as your source.
Odin's background is vast and his knowledge is unparalleled. Odin has well over two decades of experience in mobile electronics with another 15 years in big and small boat marine audio. A musician since 1984, Odin combines his love for music with a technical understanding of audio extending well beyond mobile and marine electronics. Odin has performed with local band Southbound since 1999, worked as the in-house sound engineer for hundreds of local and national touring artists at local music venue Hank’s Texas Grill since 2004 and collects and restores vintage amplifiers.
In support of his customers, Odin has over 80 procedural and instructional installation documents (and the list is growing) including noise elimination and trouble-shooting if you would ever need it down the road. Everything from charging systems to fabrication to system tuning and much more. I would consider Odin, with his considerable Prosound background, to be one of the leading experts on system tuning and gain structure. With his guidance the same equipment will absolutely sound better.

Looks sweet! I think we are on the same river? Maumee ?

I have orange LED ribbons in my air vents (SANTE 230) and they look sweet. Makes it look like the motor is on fire haha. Check oznium.com for any LED lighting stuff. We did all of our cupholers and the rear air vents for like 60 bucks. Everything comes pre-wired and is bipolar so you aren't gonna mess anything up.

David, thank you for originally referring me to Odin! You are right, he is extraordinary and his instructional documents are extremely helpful!

TH - I am in the Maumee and spend 90% of my time below the damn. Stop by if you see us out next time!

Trey, how did you run the wiring to your LEDs in the air vents? I am planning on hooking these up this week and am hoping to install the lights without removing the vents. Seems like I can pass the wire up to the LED in the larger hole in the back of the vent.
Did you silicone yours or just use the double sided 3M tape?

is your syn 4 only running your rev 10's? if so can you take a pic of how your amp is tuned? I dont think i have mined tuned properly and want to see where you have yours set at?

Mxguy741,

I will try to get a picture for you tonight. I pretty much followed instructions that Odin sent to me from Earmark. Send him/Earmark a request for the settings. Once set, slight adjustments from there depending on how you want it to sound...

sales@earmarkcaraudio.com

Originally Posted by ride152

David, thank you for originally referring me to Odin! You are right, he is extraordinary and his instructional documents are extremely helpful!

TH - I am in the Maumee and spend 90% of my time below the damn. Stop by if you see us out next time!

Trey, how did you run the wiring to your LEDs in the air vents? I am planning on hooking these up this week and am hoping to install the lights without removing the vents. Seems like I can pass the wire up to the LED in the larger hole in the back of the vent.
Did you silicone yours or just use the double sided 3M tape?

Double sided tape. Not sure if your 210 has this but on my 230 there is a removable backplate for my air vents so installation was easy there. For wiring, just find the nearest courtesy lights to your air vent and crimp the LED wires into the existing courtesy lights.