Project Boat: MC 205V

(rich_g) · (rich_g) **Join Date: May 2003** 09-29-2006, 2:26 PM

it's a "fixxer-upper", had a long list of issues including a cracked block. I had a new engine installed and just got it home. This will keep me busy all winter.

First Item: Interior

Broken Hatch - I want to build a new one and get it recovered or buy a new skin. I also need skins for the back seat and observer seat.

What kind of material is used for the hatch, and where do you get it? Is it the hard white plastic that looks like a cutting board?

This is just the first project; later I plan to install stereo (modest one), Wakeboard Pro PP, and Ballast System. I will do separate threads for those later on.

Here's how I see this working. If you see a "?" in my post and KNOW the answer, you have to post. We will use my credit card for all projects. Thanks, Rich Upload

(rich_g) · (rich_g) **Join Date: May 2003** 09-29-2006, 2:27 PM

this is the broken engine hatch

(tyler97217) · (tyler97217) **Join Date: Aug 2004** 09-29-2006, 2:30 PM

will be a great boat when you are done.... Who is the knucklhead that owned it before you and why did they not take care of it?

(trace) · (trace) **Join Date: Feb 2002** 09-29-2006, 2:46 PM

Nice boat, what year is it and what'd you give for it?

The hatch on my VLX is made of honeycomb aluminum board. I've seen it on mcmaster.com, but stopped looking after I saw the price. You will be shocked at the cost of it. Plastic won't work unless you add reinforcement / bracing. UHMW sheet and King Starboard do not have enough stiffness to span the whole opening unsupported.

I recommend making it a 3-piece setup while you're at it. You also might be able to salvage some of the existing and save some dough since you wouldn't need such a large piece.

mendo247 09-29-2006, 2:58 PM

sweet project! thats gonna be fun and very rewarding..

fyi: i had that same tower and wasnt very happy with it.. shortly after throwing some 6x9's on it, i found it cracked in a few spots....

(rich_g) · (rich_g) **Join Date: May 2003** 09-29-2006, 4:07 PM

Trace, it's a 99 with the same open floor plan as your VLX; no wraparound. Diggs, I don't know why it fell into disrepair but it did, and I think I got it at a fair discount. I've got 15 grand into it, and that's with the new engine, several maintenance items done at the same time, and new trailer tires (I didn't think I could make it home on the old ones). It's mechanically sound, just needs some TLC.

I plan on spending another $4K to do what I want.
Richard, the tower would not be my 1st or 2nd choice; it comes apart in too many places; it has already cracked and been welded together solid at the top on the back posts. I'm not adding tower speakers but will put on a bimini. I've got a bimini frame to cut down and retrofit (forgot to put that on the first list).

Any more info on what MC uses for that hatch? I think I will reinforce whatever material I end up using.

(wakeslife) · (wakeslife) **Join Date: Jul 2005** 09-29-2006, 4:10 PM

Don't forget to get that teak looking furniture-store new and take off those fugly X graphics and put on a nice big MASTERCRAFT drip molded decal down the side.

(rake) · (rake) **Join Date: Jun 2003** 09-29-2006, 4:13 PM

Rich,

If you have tap plastics in your area use 3/4" seaboard or 3/4" HDPE. Both are very rigid, waterproof and durable. I think that seaboard or something similar is what MC uses for the seat bases and the like. I used it for my amp rack in my 205V.

Here is a link to the Seaboard material.
http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=344&

And the HDPE
http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=336&

(big_ed_x2) · (big_ed_x2) **Join Date: Jul 2004** 09-29-2006, 4:31 PM

quote:
The hatch on my VLX is made of honeycomb aluminum board.

Yep,I just had mine replaced under warranty.It is honeycomb aluminum.The plastic stuff you are talking about looks like the stuff for the seats.

FYI,If I had to pay for the engine cover(complete piece 1 out of 3)it was $455.

(wakesetter101) · (wakesetter101) **Join Date: Oct 2005** 09-30-2006, 8:01 AM

Winter projects are the best. I am starting to make my winter project list. That is going to be a very nice boat. Keep everyone posted on what you are doing.

(rich_g) · (rich_g) **Join Date: May 2003** 09-30-2006, 6:50 PM

took it out today for the first time. Sweeeet! Texas MasterCraft did the engine work, put in a Jasper rebuilt long block (18 mo. warranty) This boat has the 310 TBI.

I'm just breaking it in so no ballast yet. Pulled my son for one set and we could see the potential; nice shape. I am trying out the slalom wake tomorrow. I know this is not a slalom boat but the wake at 32 looked better than my last boat - Centurion Elite-V - that was a deep V boat and had a hard bump. I like the size of this boat too, a foot shorter than the Elite. It will be easier for my wife and daughter to handle. The Centurion was a good boat but this one is going to work out better for me.

(boarder_x) · (boarder_x) **Join Date: Mar 2006** 09-30-2006, 7:36 PM

Actually that boat's hull, is the same as the MasterCraft slolom hull.

PS205 was the premier slolom boat. They put a V-Drive in it, and called it the V205. .. They realized what they had, then called it the X-Star.

(lionel) · (lionel) **Join Date: Nov 2005** 09-30-2006, 7:52 PM

Rich, I have the same hull. The slalom wake at 22' off is super nice. One little bump. If you have more than two people in the boat, put them in the bow.....

(rich_g) · (rich_g) **Join Date: May 2003** 10-04-2006, 3:38 PM

I also posted on TMC but I don't think this is a MasterCraft issue. The hatch is made out of some type of dense plastic foam. You can't tell from the picture, but the yellow plastic is encased by a black plastic sheet (feels like tar paper)

Then there is black netting on the underside as a liner. I can remove the liner. This hatch has a cut out for the air intake, otherwise the hatch would not close completely. There is supposed to be some hard material up inside the cutout, level with the foam padding on the top side. I will have to replace that.

I am weighing my options. Rather than rebuild the whole thing, I may just add a reinforcement layer on the bottom side. Maybe one more layer of this same stuff or something similar (like th stuff Gordon mentioned) How would I bond it? I don't think I want screws or bolts. Something that would make a strong water resistant bond. There is so much surface area it should work if I use the right type of adhesive, right? Any ideas?

BTW, I am going mainly for functionality, not a beauty contest. I live on a lake and let my teenage kids use the boat. Maybe down the road I could do a complete restoration with all new vinyl.

(trace) · (trace) **Join Date: Feb 2002** 10-04-2006, 4:24 PM

Hmmm... I don't really understand what you are asking?

Did you cut that square out, or is that a stepped up area of extra clearance for the motor? It looks like it's covered in aluminum sheet to me, looking in the lower left corner of the hole.

(big_ed_x2) · (big_ed_x2) **Join Date: Jul 2004** 10-04-2006, 4:37 PM

That is the area for the engine clearance but I'm not sure what he is asking myself?

(trace) · (trace) **Join Date: Feb 2002** 10-04-2006, 4:44 PM

Lower right corner, that is.

(rich_g) · (rich_g) **Join Date: May 2003** 10-04-2006, 5:07 PM

this one is a little challenging to describe over the internet. Trace, I didn't make the cut out; it is the stepped up area for clearance. What you are seeing in the middle is the foam padding and on the other side of that is the outer vinyl. If the hatch was lowered and you stepped right there, your foot would go thru. It has to have some type of hard panel insert, resting "on top" of the hatch. I think I can fix that part.

The lower right corner of the cutout is where the hatch itself is cracked (see top of this thread). I can make an entire new hatch and refoam, re-cover w/ vinyl, or simply reinforce this one from underneath. Then I would have 3 levels of hard material where originally there were 2. This reinforcement layer would be slightly recessed on the edges for clearance, and would have the same cutout in the middle.

I'm asking for input if this would be a feasible / functional solution I could get a couple more seasons out of the vinyl sun pad and save a lot of work for now.