Maintenance costs

Many unexpected expenses I just found out about when I took my X1 to the dealership...I'm at the end of a year, and at 110 hours... do these prices sound right?

119 - Oil change
100 - tramsmission fluid
130 - fuel filter
175 - Raw Water Impellar
250 - winterize fee

Is that all really necessary at this point?

774 seams high to me. If you are handy you could do it all your self for alot less. It cost me 19.99 for the fuel filter, impeller is about 35.00. to winterize it cost me 3 gal of antifreeze. you could do it all for under 200.00 your self. These prices are on a malibu but MC has the indmar engines so the setup should be close to the same.

(Message edited by Superair on November 01, 2007)

ouch 119 for an oil change. It costs 32 bucks for the filter and oil and thats if I don't buy it in bulk using the old oil containers.

Unless you're loaded, I'd learn to do it all yourself. It's easiest if you have a friend who's done it before and can show you the ropes. But if not, this and other message boards are a great source of advice.

holy ass...i just spent 60 on oil filter and change, 90 for winterizing, and free fill up on trans fluid...im assuming that for 250 they put antifreeze in your block which they did not do for mine

...ey tom wheres that at?...I'll even come down there from canada..wow

Just found a raw water impeller at NAPA auto parts of all places.. for 35.00

OMG!!! just do it yourself, & save over $500...unless of course you're rich & really have no mechanical knowledge at all.

Do it yourself:

oil change, 6 quarts $18.00
filter- $8.00 20 minutes

trans fluid- 1 1/2 qts. $6.00 15 min.

fuel filter- $8.00 5 min.

impeller- $32.00 30 min.


Can't speak on winterize, 'cause we don't do it in SoCal, but it can't be that tough!

These are such basic procedures,I can't believe the prices people pay to have them done. My current boat has over 550 hrs. on it and has NEVER been back to the dealer or any repair facility since I bought it.

certainly not rich, just inexperienced... they have the boat for some warranty work so they kind of suprised me with all that.. I may call and tell them to cancel the fuel filter and impellar anyways and save 300

the only one that isn't super easy on your X1 is the fuel filter, which is in the tank itself I believe.

Yes, the fuel filter is in the tank and it can be messy and if you don't torque the bolts back correctly, you might get a fuel leak. Fuel leaks on boats can get bad quick, so if you are squemish about your oil changes, leave this one to the shop.

Don't neglect the transmission filter, which is a $60 part and can be changed with an allen wrench. Also go buy you an oil extractor for the transmission and do the following.
Go run your boat in the river and get the transmission oil warm. If you live close to the water, drive home. If not do this at the ramp. Open the dip stick on the transmission and stick the hard tube that comes with the extractor to the bottom of the transmission. You may have to wiggile it back and forth to get it all the way in. Pump the extractor and pull roughly 4-5 quarts of oil out for a x1 transmission. Loosen the allen bolt on the filter and take the filter out. The filter is on the passenger side of the transmission and it faces up. It is a cap that is roughly 2 inches in diameter. Fill with 15w40 oil with roughly 4-5 quarts (read your owners manual for exact) and after you start the boat for the first time, cut it off and double check the oil level.

If the oil in the motor cooled down, run the boat in your yard with a fake a lake or other device made to run your boat. Do not run it dry. Then pull the hose connected to the oil pan through the conveinent plug under the platform.The end will be on the passenger side of the motor with a clip near the electronics of the motor. Find a way to hook your oil extractor to the end and pull your oil out. You can gravity drain, but it takes forever. Put the cap back on the hose and put it back like you found it. Change filter as you would on a car, but use a milk jug or something to catch the oil in. Fill back up with 15w40 oil. I think it was 5.5 quarts, but double check the manual and dip stick after the first start up.

The impeller is a pain in the ass. Get some needle nose pliers that are about a foot long and have a 90 degree bend in it. First take the 4 screws out of the cover of the pump. It is located under the mufler and in front of the belt. Follow your water pick up to it if you need to. Use the piers to grab the impeller and find another screwdriver to pry the pliers to pull out the impeller. It is hard, but doable. You may have to play with it for 5-10 minutes. Push the new one in and replace the gasket and put the cover back on like you took it off.

Winterizing can be as simple as pulling the plugs on each side of the block and undoing the water hose fitting that goes from one ehaust manifold to the other. you could put antifreeze in, but MC doesn't say you have to. You may want to pull a gallon of pink antifreeze in each ballast pump by closing the intake ball valve (driver side beside the transmission) and then finding the ballast manifold on the passenger side of the moter. There will be a garden hose fitting that you can put a piece of hose on and put in a bottle of antifreeze. Pull a gallon in each pump and discarge for a couple seconds. You can also take out each spark plug and spray some fogging oil in each. Don't drop the plastic stick on the can into a cylinder. AFter you spray each cylinder, unhook the safety lanyard and turn the motor over for a couple seconds.

People please add in what I missed. Save your money and learn how to do it. People up here can walk you through it and tmcowners.com is an excellent source on every maintenance subject.





(Message edited by 1boarder_kevin on November 01, 2007)

Please dont put 15w40 oil in your transmission.

I've had boats with 3 different transmissions, Borg Warner, PCM, and Hurth, all use Dextron transmission fluid the most I've ever seen is 2 quarts. The Walters and PCM v-drives use 30 wt oil approx. 1 quart.

where in texas do you need to winterize? panhandle? we have been below 32 once or twice in the last 5 or 6 years, here in houston. and it wasnt more than a few hours.

My buddy went to take his in the other day with the promise of a $160 winterization they proceeded to tell him all the extra ala carte crap
-$112 to winterize ballast
-$60 to winterize heater
-$120 oil change

I'd tell them to go pour themselves a nice warm glass of go "F" yourself.

I did all my own for roughly $50 granted I already have an oil boy but c'mon. There is way to much price gauging going on in the boat industry.

I normally don't change my impeller until spring. I'm sure it is fine to do it now, but I don't want to deform the fins of the new impeller sitting through the winter. Probably not necessary, but that's the way I do it.

appreciate the advice... this year it's in outdoor storage by the lake so even though I'm only in Dallas, it could still be a hard winter and I want to winterize it right...next year it will be in a semi-heated garage and I will attempt all of these things on my own

Just did all mine for the first time, got a suck up pump, made fluid changing easy. Did plugs, and some other stuff as well. Dealer wanted at least $500, if not more...

so your done riding? the weather in dallas is beautiful right now. yeah i would learn how to do all this stuff yourself. it will give you a better understanding of whats going on with your boat. and save you a s@#$load of money.

yep done Until April... getting married, hunting season, honeymoon, showers... pretty much booked until the spring

George,

The hurth transmission used on the x1 uses 15w40 and it is closer to 4-5 quarts. Just because you owned several boats doesn't mean you have read the manual on the x1. I too have owned several boats and MC started using 15w40 to quiet the transmission down in recent years.

READ A NEW OWNERS MANUAL IF YOU DON'T THINK I AM RIGHT.

From the Mastercraft's website. The X1 runs the v drive hurth

TransmissionModelRatioCapacityFluid Type
ZF Hurth in-line450D1:11.7 qt. (1.6L)Dexron II, III or MECON
ZF Hurth in-line450A1.5:12.12 qt (2L)15W40 motor oil
ZF Hurth in-line630A1.5:14.2 qt (4L)15W40 motor oil
ZF Hurth V-driveG30V4.2 qt (4L)15W40 motor oil

1boarder,
Thats what mine takes 15-40. Just sucked out 4.2 qts and put it back in, oil in from the factory. Someone said that you needed to replace the trans filter, not so, its metal, just clean it with some paint thinner and dry before installing.
I do all my own work to save these huge costs.