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Go Back   WakeWorld > >> Boats, Accessories & Tow Vehicles Archive > Archive through May 08, 2008

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Old     (heeb_v215)      Join Date: Feb 2007       04-11-2008, 10:50 PM Reply   
Hey,
Was wondering if anyone has tapped into the factory ballast pumps on the v-215 while working in junction with the hard tanks in the rear and the bag in the front..Pix would be nice for ref.....Thanks for the info.
Old     (zipe)      Join Date: Mar 2002       04-11-2008, 11:04 PM Reply   
I ripped out my hard tanks and had Fly High custom make 2 sacks to fill the rear locker. The only plumbing I had to change was putting a 90' elbow on the intake pumps through the hull so the sacks did not sit on top of them. Well worth it.

According to that Sanger factory video that was up a while back, there is a plug on the pumps that you can pull out and tee off to fill another sack.

I will try and snap some pics when I am out this weekend.
Old     (heeb_v215)      Join Date: Feb 2007       04-12-2008, 12:27 AM Reply   
Cool sound good.Then how do you drain? snap some pics Thanks Heeb
Old     (heeb_v215)      Join Date: Feb 2007       04-12-2008, 9:17 PM Reply   
So you mean to tell me no one has added ballast to a a v215???
Old     (scott313)      Join Date: Jul 2006       04-14-2008, 10:52 AM Reply   
I just added lead, a lot of lead
Old     (montana_sanger)      Join Date: Nov 2007       04-14-2008, 11:42 AM Reply   
My '08 has a white pipe plug on the front bottom corner of both hard tanks I assume thats where you would plumb in a fat-sac. I'm going to go with lead,to save some space and fill time.
Scott- how much did you run in yours?
Old     (scott313)      Join Date: Jul 2006       04-14-2008, 12:04 PM Reply   
Dave,

I have 2 bars and 12 pop bags in the rear compartments, 4 pop bags on the floor,6 bars and 4 pop bags in the bow. A total of 20 pop bags and 8 bars, around 1320 lbs.

The wake is big and solid!
Old     (ccwhite)      Join Date: Jul 2004       04-14-2008, 12:07 PM Reply   
Im toying with the idea of getting 2 big ole fatsacs for my 215. One for up front in the walkway and the other in the back sitting on the floor. I hadn't thought about trying to plumb them in, but I do remember Scotts video saying that it would be easy to do.
Old     (hatepain)      Join Date: Aug 2006       04-14-2008, 12:48 PM Reply   
I'm planning a system for mine that will have 400lbs on both sides midship under the floor and two 400lb V locker sacks to go along with the 500lb center sack. Still trying to decide what I want to do up front maybe lead since I rarely tow it far.

I currently run the center ballast with an additional 370 on top of it, the vdrive locker's at 400 each and a 750lb sack in the middle of the floor which I can't wait to get under the floor. This set up throws a very meaty, clean and tall wake with excellent transitions. It's pretty much perfect for my taste and everyone who rides it loves it.
Old     (tinytdubb)      Join Date: Jul 2007       04-14-2008, 1:29 PM Reply   
So if you guys were going to add balast to a 215, starting from scratch, how would you weight it?
Old     (deltariderscom)      Join Date: May 2007       04-14-2008, 1:37 PM Reply   
hatepain,

I got my 04 without rear hard tanks; I got all the fittings from Sanger (Scott P) and then bought some Pro X 400 lb sacs for the rear lockers. They fit perfect. I added a one way valve on the fill side after the pumps and then also had a t handle shut off on the drain fitting. On the overflow line I added a check valve so that it would have to fill up to pressure the valve open. I would always hear it open with the quick gasp of air and then the water. This allowed me to fully expand the rear sacs and it would also keep them from letting water leak out. Up front I just added lead but thought about having a custom sac made to go under the front seats and cut out the front ice chest to wrap the front with a V sac. I would add an additional 230 lb in the nose.
If I was to do it again I would just add electronic valves (nothing more than sprinkler valves would work) for the drain and fill so when the switch was turned on the valve opened and then closed when it was off.
Old     (hatepain)      Join Date: Aug 2006       04-14-2008, 1:50 PM Reply   
Cool idea's DRA. The guy I'm planning my system with is a project manager for a company that works on yachts so he's coming up with all the technical crap I just know where the boat needs it. We are planning on using electronic valves for the flow from the top to under floor. I'm pretty lucky too as he can hook me up at wholesale and will work for pulls I just don't take any gas money off him.
Old     (deltariderscom)      Join Date: May 2007       04-14-2008, 3:25 PM Reply   
I would go with a scoop intake for the rear tanks also and not T off of the front bag intake unless your going to add in a mainfold set up that limits how many bags you can fill at once. This way you don't starve the system for water or make the main intake line big enough to flow enough into all the pumps. Sangers placement of the rear hard tank inlets is not my favorite. It took some priming sometimes to get them to get started.
Old     (hatepain)      Join Date: Aug 2006       04-14-2008, 3:43 PM Reply   
Yeah we're doing a scoop for sure, I looked at tapping the raw water in take but I don't wanna have to worry about the engine getting to hot with a couple pumps siphoning off of it. I don't have hard tanks now so I guess I wont have an inlet now right?
Old     (deltariderscom)      Join Date: May 2007       04-15-2008, 12:02 PM Reply   
You have an inlet on the front ballast. Is sits right under the locker door for the center ballast. I would install a shallow ride scoop in the rear opposite of the paddle wheel and off set of the skags and then it is a short piping to your pumps.
Old     (hatepain)      Join Date: Aug 2006       04-15-2008, 1:08 PM Reply   
Perfect bro thanks for all the advice and insight it's gonna go to good use.

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