Right hand or Left hand?

I have an 88 Ski Centurion with a Ford Indmar 351 motor. This is my first boat. I'm wondering...how do I tell if it's a right hand or left hand rotation engine?
Thanks in advance.

Also, does a starter die all of a sudden or will it give symptoms before giving out? It takes 2-3 attempts (each crank lasting 5 seconds) before motor fires up. I'm wondering if starter is going bad?

The easiest way to determine the rotation of the prop is to look at it. It will have the diam, pitch, orientation, and size of the shaft.

Another way is to pull off the safety release and have someone try to turn over the motor. Then simply look to see which way it turns.

Tim

I think thats a RH prop. My brother had an 88 Prostar with the same Ford/Indmar 351 in it.

So when you attempt to start, is the starter spinning? Does it spin way too fast the first time? Or not at all? If it's either of these, the Bendix spring is weak, or the solenoid is failing.

Starters are marinized special for boats since their in an enclosed engine compartment. You will probably find it least expensive to have your starter rebuilt by a good shop. Get out the yellow pages & start calling around for prices. Both the Bendix & the solenoid will get replaced in a rebuild.

ok...will take a look tonight. Thx Tim.

Bill-the starter does spin, constant speed. However, it just takes so much longer to fire up. Now, this is my first boat so I don't have anything to compare it to...only to cars. On my car, it takes maybe 2 seconds from the time I turn the key to when the engine fires. I also have an old Toyota Camry, 18 years old, fires up within 2-3 seconds as well. I would rather change/rebuild the starter to avoid problems and have peace of mind out in the water. It was worse than pulling teeth to convince my wife to let me get this boat. The last thing I need is for her to swim back to shore...that would be the last time you hear from me. lol.

Its might not be the starter, could just need a tune up. Starters don't always give waring before the fail. If it has been submerged for any reason then yes you should change it.

Eric-I just bought this boat last week. Records show the oil and filter were changed in August 07. I checked the dipstick and oil looks new (nice and yellow). In regards to tune up...where else should I focus my attention-plugs? what else?
Thanks in advance.

For a tune-up I would do the following. Ditch the points and condenser and put in a Pertronix Ignitor electronic ignition system. Very easy to install and you don't really ever have to change it. I would also put on a Pertronix or similar Coil. I would also replace the cap and rotor.

Do you have a prestolite distributor?
Does the distributor have a screw down or clip down cap?

If a screw down cap these are the part numbers.
Pertronix ignitor-1582
Coil-40011
Prestolite rotor- 4-101
Prestolite Cap- 3-154
Spark plugs are probably an AC-Delco #MR43T

If you have a clip down cap.
PErtronix Ignitor-1581
Coil-40011
rotor- 4-103
cap- 3-154
Plugs- MR43T

Total cost for this is around $150.
I have all in stock right now.

JP, what you mention about taking a while to start up has nothing to do with the starter. If you continually do that though you will shorten the life of you starter and burn it out. I have had a 84 mastercraft, 83 mastercraft and an 87 Nautique that all had the PCM 351. This is what I would do to start it up when it is cold.

1-Pill the neutral pin out
2-Give 2 good pumps with the throttle.
3-Give the throttle 1/4 to 1/2 throttle and turn key.

Mine have always started up almost right away with this method.

You sure your starting battery is fully charged? Sometimes it's as simple as that

Thanks to Brett and Tanner for the feedback.
Brett-I have no idea what type of cap I have on the distributor. Will check tonight. I may be interested in your recommendation.
By the way, I just checked your profile. I grew up in your neck of the woods (Redmond). Grew up skiing on Lake Washington and Sammamish. Small world. I remember how damn cold those lakes were in the early morn'. I'm down here in AZ now...If you're ever down in this neck of the woods let me know, the first beer and pull is on me!
Tanner-I'll check the battery. Thanks.

Brett-forgive me for this ignorant question. When I pull the neutral pin out and pump the throttle 2 times, do I pump it clockwise (going in reverse) or counterclockwise (going forward)? I remember the owner I bought the boat from telling me the same procedure but he pumped the throttle clockwise (as if going in reverse). Is this right? Sorry for the stupid question, I'm new to this boating thing!

Either direction on the the throttle does not matter, as it is moving the carb lever the same direction.

Pumping the throttle lightly will tell you whether it is lean. Do not open the throttle when cranking, just lightly pump the throttle before hand. If it starts it is lean.

Then to see if it is rich, before cranking open the throttle a little while in neutral. If it fires right up it is too rich.

Most likely it just needs to have the carb adjusted. Although it may be due for a rebuild. Tuning a carb takes some time tweeking it to perfection. Adjust the carb in gear for idle, then in neutral, until the starts, idles, and shuts off perfectly, along with idling at the right RPM both in gear and out of gear.

Peter-Sweet...thanks. Will give this a try.

So the starter is spinning fine. It's the engine that isn't starting right away. This is due to either lack of fuel (pump the throttle twice) or spark (tune up the ignition components). You can check the fuel by pulling the spark arrestor & looking down into the carb as someone pumps the throttle.....use a flashlight, not a lighter ;) Do you see gas with both pumps?

Tuning the ignition is a must, especially if it still has the old points/condensor. In fact, it might not be a bad idea to have those on hand anytime.

When my brother's PS190 was tuned up, it started easily. When it wasn't, it could be a bear to get going.

BTW, another Sammamish native here. I lived in Lakewood Shores till 2004 & went to Issaquah..... a loooong time ago.

JP, let me know if you have any questions.
I grew up in Redmond as well. I graduated from Eastlake in 99. I just moved into a house on the very south east corner of Lake Sammamish. Went out today with the roomates and got nothing but glass. The water was 50 degrees. It is a good thing I bought a drysuit yesterday.

Oh yeah, nice boat purchase JP. I to like to rock the old school closed bow direct drive.

Bill K-thanks for the advice, I'll check it out. By the way...it's nice to meet another Samm native.
Brett-I grew up on Education Hill and graduated from Redmond High in 91 (a long time ago!). My wife's parents lived on Lake Samm before moving in 2005. Seeing your MC brings back memories. I started skiing behind an 85 MC Prostar 190. I remember drinking half of the lake that day. Anyway, I'll check out my motor and will be giving you a call. Thanks for the advice.

JP, when you check make sure it is a Prestolite distributor.

Bill-I checked the carb today and I do see gas with each pump. Now...how in the heck do I tell if it has the old points/condensor or electronic ignition?
Brett-How can I tell if it's a Prestolite distributor? Will it say somewhere on there?
Sorry for being so clueless guys. As you can tell by now, I'm not too mechanically inclined. But I'm willing and wanting to learn. I need to get a manual for this motor. Does anyone know where I can pick up a service manual for an 88 Ford Indmar 351 motor?

Sounds like it's time to tune up the ignition, JP. You can get all the parts from any auto parts store. You will need at least the spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor, points & condensor. You need to inspect the plug wires & the boots around the cap & plugs. If they show any signs of cracking or wear, replace them. Check out the contacts inside the distributor & on the rotor. If their burnt badly, you may have found a problem. Replace them just to be sure though.

Heres a picture of the points & condensor. http://www.ytmag.com/store/parts/pics/wm_ATK1DCR.jpg
You should be able to find them under the distributor cap.

It might be a good idea to talk to a mechanic about how this is done. Or pick up a manual for the 351 at the auto parts store. You'll need to see pics of the points & condensor, and instructions on how to gap the points & set the dwell & timing. It's not rocket science, and we might be able to walk you thru it on here.... slowly.
Oh, and get yourself a gap tool, timing light & dwell meter.

Ultimately I'd upgrade to electronic ignition. It really simplifies things a lot. But doing the tune-up should be a good short term fix & get it running good for under $100 (timing light & dwell meter might be a bit more).

(Message edited by bill_airjunky on April 17, 2008)

The distributor will have a tag that is on the body of the distributor. If it is a Prestolite the number would start with IBM or IDU. After talking to my dad it is almost definitely going to be a prestolite.

I also asked him about the carb and from what I understood if you give the throttle a pump about halfway that will get some gas in the bowls and then if you pump all the way it will open the choke. Then put back in the straight-up position(neutral) and try to start. It should start up and run at that point. Then as it is idling if it feels like it is going to die give it a little gas.

JP-My friends older sister graduated from Redmond in 94. Her name is Shawna Clark.

Bill-thanks for your reply. I will take your advice along with Brett's and change to electronic ignition. Everyone tell's me it's the way to go, less hassle. I like the sound of that. I just ordered the service manual from Indmar. Should arrive by monday. Then, hopefully, I'll know more about this motor.
Brett-hook me up! I'm ready to convert!

JP give me a call at 1-800-234-2981. Ask for me. I just need to know if it is a clip-down or screw-down cap.

Also when installing the electronic ignition you should unhook the battery. If you have a stereo in your boat you need to wire it correctly as well. Basically if there is any voltage(power) going to the coil and the engine is not running you have a good chance that you will burn out the ignition module. A lot of people with boats do this because they have their stereo run off their ignition wire. They turn the key on so they can listen to the stereo while the boat is off. This will burn out the module.