Fixing CNC Props

I banged up my Acme prop. Can these props be fixed? All three blades have some damage.

Check with Acme. I've been hearing that they can be fixed, but I've also heard that they're never the same afterward.

Same here. My prop was damaged pretty badly. If repaired, it will not look the same because you will see the welds etc.

I bought a new 525 for 315 bucks from propellors online including shipping / no tax.

Acme has a list of shops that have the correct jigs for Acme props. They are shaped differently from the standard props. The repairs won't cost any more than a standard prop.

I suggest you consider a second prop to run while your other one is being repaired. My price is $310 for the Acme 3-blade shipped to your door in CO. 4-blades are $335 and up, depending upon application.

rider@boarditup.com
www.boarditup.com

Thanks, Karl. As soon as I figure out what I have, you'll be hearing from me. I'm not gonna bother with a repair.

It looks like I'm a mooch for a week or so.

No problem. I can have the factory drop ship whatever you need the same day if I can order by noon. Should be 3 days from MI to CO.

I wrecked mine a few weeks ago in Havasu..i found "Skip" and he did a great job on mine and it was back on the next day and it works the same..takes a while longer and you have to know what you are doing....just be sure they know what they are doing..

To properly fix an Acme prop you need the Acme CNC machined pirch blocks. If you don't you are guessing. A lot to talented guys out there, but I prefer to have it done right to the exact specs to even the most experienced eye.

Swass, when you hear the "shallow water beeper" going off this means to SHUT IT DOWN not SPEED up and see how hard you can hit something.

You better just let Holly drive next time.......blahaahahahahahah

She was driving the first time it happened. I just finished it off.

I hate my freakin' depth finder. I have to set the shallow depth alarm every time I start the boat, so, naturally, I rarely do it. My lessons tend to be expensive ones.

I got mine fixed up after hitting some concrete, it wasn't too badly munted, once I got it fixed it was good as new.

I have had my ACME and OJ worked at Bronson Hill propeller in Orange County, CA. They both seem to be as good as new. I was a little dissapointed that the grooves on the ACME were pretty much pollished out when I got it back.

OverBloated: Why were you disappointed that the machining groves were polished out? Seems like an advantage to me.....
Rod

I've had my Acme repaired twice.

I swear the 1st repair made the prop even smoother, the 2nd time around it feels like it did right out of the box.

Repairs come out good as new if you find a good shop or send to ACME for $95 for a 3 blade.

I shipped my Acme 3 blade to Acme for repair. They charged me $80 and had it back to me in about 2 weeks. My advice, have it repaired and use it as your extra and buy a new one to replace it as your primary.

I just wanted to thank Karl for the hookup. My prop will be here Tuesdayish.

Give him a call if you need equipment - he's the bomb.

What type of depthfinder are you using, Swass?

Lowrance

You sure it wired correctly? You shouldn't have to reset the alarm everytime you start the boat.

You only board on one lake!!!!

You should know it like the back of your hand by now!

If you don't want the default of 10', I believe you have to reset it every time.

You meet some damn nice folks in this board. Kudos to Karl!

I didn't wire it. If I had, the chances of that happening would've been pretty good.

It didn't happen on my "home" lake. So there.

Not to hi-jack... Swass, I saw that you had your boat listed.... You have your eye on something else?

E.J.

Saw that, did ya? I HAD my eye on something else. (The finance department overruled the sports and recreation department.)

Have I mentioned lately that Karl's the MAN?

I don't think you'll find an Acme cheaper and he's a pleasure to work with. Now if I can just figure out how to use this harmonic prop puller....

Leave a gap of about 3/16" between the prop puller and the prop. Give it a sharp wack or two with a 2 lbs hammer. Do not let the harmonic prop puller contact the prop. It is the vibration that frees the prop.

OK, so I have to remove the castle nut, first, then? That's where I was getting confused.

(Message edited by swass on July 26, 2004)

Is there any hitting involved when installing the new one?

1. Remove the cotter pin.
2. Remove the nut.
3. Thread on the harmonic puller, leaving about a 1/8" to 3/16" gap between the puller and the prop.
4. Use a sharp blow with a 2 lbs. hammer or large metal hammer. Do not use a mallet or dead blow. You want the prop to vibrate. If it does not release, hit it again. It should be a hard, solid, decisive blow.
5. Remove the prop and key. Use spline grease (I also used pipe thread compound in a pinch) on the shaft and interior of the new prop bore. This keeps it from sticking.
6. Put the new prop on and insert the key. Sometimes you may have to put the key in place first and tap with a hammer. Gently tap the prop home.
7. Thread on the castle nut. Tighhten to about 25 lbs of torque, or what the owner's manual says. 25 lbs of torque for most men is a solid pull with a 3/8" drive socket wrench.
8. Replace the cotter pin and bend it over. Look at the rotation and bent it the way the prop would if it was spinning in forward.
9. Stand back and admire your work.
10. Ride hard, get wet.

That's just what I needed - thanks!

I don't have spline grease. Will the marine grease that I use on the wheel bearings work?

Not as well. It will wash out much easier. Use the pipe thread compound, it will work better and can be found at Home Depot, etc.

Geezus Swass do you want Karl to drive from Michigan to Colorado to do it for you........

Karl thanks for making it basically SWASS proof, otherwise he would have hit the puller with a hammer and the prop would have fallen off onto his feet below......causing a severe sudden pain followed by some abusive language.

That was going to be my next question. The only way to make it Swass-proof is to keep Swass away from the tools.

I was going to ask what the heck the "key" is for, but I thought I'd try to figure it out myself.

Swass: Just in case you decide to keep the old Acme for a spare Jim's Prop Shop at Wadsworth and I-70 has the Acme pitch blocks. I nailed my Acme 4 blade 1st day out and he brought it back to life nicely for about $90. Sounds like a sweet deal on the new one.