2007 Sanger V215--Ballast fitting brittle

(twobills) · (twobills) **Join Date: Feb 2007** 08-13-2007, 11:16 AM

Has anyone else had the problem of the rear ballast elbow fitting breaking? It's on the top of the tank and it's very brittle, just crumbles.

I just discovered it yesterday and haven't contacted my dealer yet. I'm guessing it's under warrenty.

stillstandin 08-13-2007, 7:35 PM

Mine broke off, very brittle. I just put some oil on the hose, and put if over the bigger, thicker part, and tightened it back down. Good to go now.

(toneus) · (toneus) **Join Date: Feb 2007** 08-15-2007, 5:52 AM

I was able to get new ones sent to me directly from Sanger. Just call them up, they know that the material was a bad design. I got mine for free, but I did buy a $400 bimini at the same time.

In order to change them out, be aware that the old ones unscrew. There is a caulk that they have used on the threads that make them very difficult to remove. I used a dremmel, being very careful to not hit the threads on the tank, then I pealed the fitting out once the center of the fitting was removed.

Toneus

(twobills) · (twobills) **Join Date: Feb 2007** 08-15-2007, 6:45 AM

Does anyone know Sanger's contact info? Email, phone etc.

(razzman) · (razzman) **Join Date: Dec 2006** 08-15-2007, 7:17 AM

Try this number, (559)485-2842

(twobills) · (twobills) **Join Date: Feb 2007** 08-17-2007, 6:29 AM

Toneus, were you able to change it out without removing the tank?

(toneus) · (toneus) **Join Date: Feb 2007** 08-17-2007, 8:01 AM

Correct. The fitting has threads. Wait until the new ones arrive from Sanger. Then you will know what you are dealing with. The tanks themselves are plastic. The caulk that is used to seal the treads is pliable, but from what I could tell does not allow for easy removal by unscrewing the fitting. I cut out the center of the fitting. Being very careful not to loose pieces of the fitting into the tank. Then I used a dremmel to grind out the rest of the fitting center right up to the threads of the tank. DON'T grind the threads of the tank. Then I used a pair of pliers to pull the fitting threads out. Cleaned up the tank threads and put the new fitting in. I did not add new caulk. You might want to ask Sanger what they use.

(sbilyeu) · (sbilyeu) **Join Date: Jul 2007** 08-20-2007, 2:37 PM

Just replaced one recently. It is easiest to unscrew the tank and move it over to gain better access. All the mounting screws go into the floor and are easily accessible. I would get the part from Sanger, but if you cant wait I found parts at Home Depot for like 5 bucks in the plumbing department.

(wrencher) · (wrencher) **Join Date: Jun 2007** 08-20-2007, 3:31 PM

Haven't seen that happen.....yet. I will look at them this week to see if there's any leakage or breakage.
On the subject of the rear tanks, has anybody experienced their tanks "bleeding off"???? I'll fill them, make a run, stop, and hit the switches again and they'll run for at least a minute, then start pissin' out drains. It also seems as if the starboard tank takes way longer to fill than any of the tanks(even the bigger front bag). I did try shutting off the ball valves after filling one time and it seemed to help. Should the pumps have check valves????