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Old     (big_ed_x2)      Join Date: Jul 2004       05-17-2005, 9:35 AM Reply   
Been with my boat out a couple of times and after a few times of this happening I figured I'm NOT accidentally touching these bottons for this to happend!

OK Rider is in the water,I get his tunes going and we are off.I cranked the tunes all the way up and few minutes later it just shuts down,I look at the remote and it says >>MUTE<<I press mute and we are good.1|2 minute later I look and it's on >>AUX<<so I put it back on CD and we are rocking again.So on and so on I can't put the volume all the way up.Instaed of being able to play it at like 30,I could only play it about to 22 to 24 depending on the CD so this won't happend.

I though the stereo took a crap so I went to California Skier and they put a new deck in there and needless to say it didn't fix the problem.

I'm thinking,could I need a line driver or that wouldn't have anything to do with it??

Help would be appreciated!!

Big Ed

(Message edited by big_ed_x2 on May 17, 2005)
Old    mia            05-17-2005, 9:49 AM Reply   
uhmm....tough call ed...

"it could be" the deck shutting down due to the high volume (it is a powered deck so it is supplying power though you are not using it).a audiocontrol line driver might do the trick(you are going to be shocked when you add this).

if you want to change out the deck then..

pioneer (wired remote model) and a line driver...


a 8 volt eclipse with a pac marine wired remote add on...

the clarion marine head units are really behind the times(about 8-10 years in sound quality)..the only thing they offer is a warranty repair if the unit gets wet..

(Message edited by clubmyke on May 17, 2005)
Old     (mikeski)      Join Date: Aug 2003       05-17-2005, 9:53 AM Reply   
It's an XMD3 right? There was a discussion a while back about the remote cables getting interference. Try it without the remote or with a different remote with a different cable just temporaried into the system. I really like my line driver/pre-amp, it's the best <$100 addition to my system. However I doubt it will solve your immediate problem.

Grant will probably post as Harold's SAN and a couple other Nautique's have the same issue:

One of us might be able to supply a loaner remote to help with diagnosis...
Old     (ryanbush11)      Join Date: May 2003       05-17-2005, 10:23 AM Reply   
I had the same issue in my x80, the remote on the transom was too loww, it was getting water in it and shorting out, after 3 remotes we moved it. you're proably got a bad remote
Old     (big_ed_x2)      Join Date: Jul 2004       05-17-2005, 10:27 AM Reply   
That is kind of strange what grant said about Harold's system about how the amps are mounted?!!

The reason I say is because before I got the charging system updgraded my amps were mounted differently and I didn't seem to have that problem but then again I never really had it up all the way for longer then a minute or so because the juice just wasn't there.know that I got everything upgraded,the guy also mounted my amps differently(stacked) and since I got it back I been experiencing this problem.
I'm kind of scared if I have to change my remote cuss some thing needs to replace the spot and cover the whole area where the remote is sitting on currently!

This is really buggin me!!
Old     (big_ed_x2)      Join Date: Jul 2004       05-17-2005, 4:57 PM Reply   
Ok.....I confirmed that when I disconnect the remote,the problem is eliminated.

So what does that tell me???

1)Bad remote?
2)wire loop?
3)Do all remotes do this?

What's my solution?If there is any?
Old    whitechocolate            05-17-2005, 5:45 PM Reply   
I would re route the remote cable. This is what we did with Harolds remote wire and it fixed the problem.

Whenn I installed the XMD-3 in jasons boat it said right on the CD window that amps can cause switching problems with the unit, it says nothing about the remote cable's
Old     (troyl)      Join Date: Feb 2002       05-17-2005, 5:53 PM Reply   
I have this problem too! I think my remote cable is running right over my amps.

Ed...I think we have it!

Thanks Grant!
Old    whitechocolate            05-17-2005, 6:05 PM Reply   
Like I said in the Planet Nautique thread,

The route that My remote cable takes is directley over the top of my 2400 watt amp's 2 of them. So I was thinking if anybody's remote cable sould or would be giving them problems I would think it would be my'n But this is not the case I havent had this problem.

Question ? how many of you have the light hooked up on your remote? There is a Power and ground hook up on the back of the remote, are these hooked up?

Clarion said that the remote cable should be shielded, to protect it from the switching signals that a high powerd amp can throw out.
Crarion said the cable should have a wire wrapped around the entire cable and then gounded at both ends
Old     (troyl)      Join Date: Feb 2002       05-17-2005, 6:11 PM Reply   
Wait a minute, you just told me how to fix my problem and now you tell me it not the problem I was counting on you grant.

I will move the cable now and check it out.
Old     (big_ed_x2)      Join Date: Jul 2004       05-17-2005, 8:49 PM Reply   
My remote wires are not running over my amps but are looped kind of next to them.

Grant ~ When you say you should have a wire wrapped aroungthe entire cable...Does it matter the gauge ang if it's stranded or many wrapps per inch or foot.

Not sure if they are or not but when I flip my navigation light switch...the remote turns on,well the light turns on !
Old    whitechocolate            05-18-2005, 8:04 AM Reply   
Troy. Question ? There is a Power and ground hook up on the back of the remote, are these hooked up?

Troy: I was told from clarion. To take a regular stranded wire, Try either 12-14-16 awg and wrap it around the wire . They didnt say how may wraps per inch use your jugement. And ground the wire at both end's.

I thought this was a B.S fix and this was just there way of getting me off the phone to waste my time. I didnt try it because Im lazy, LOL
J/K but when Harold moved the remote wire it fixed the problem. So either re-route the wire or shield it. Let us know what you do and how it worked
Old     (mikeski)      Join Date: Aug 2003       05-18-2005, 2:21 PM Reply   
Just a minor detail to augment Grant's post above. Shields are slightly different then grounds. What your are providing around the remote cable is a shield wire, it's job is to dissipate any electro magnetic field entering or exiting the cable isolating the wire from the surroundings. Technically the shield should only be connected at one end so it "drains" any leaking voltage induced by EMF to only that point. If you connect it at both ends it's possible that you will introduce a ground loop. This is a very minor detail and it might not make a difference but this is how they wire the "drains" for instrument shielding in communication equipment, the same rules should apply here.
Old    whitechocolate            05-18-2005, 2:41 PM Reply   
Mike: Good insite. This is how I understood it from clarion. They could of explaned it wrong or I might have miss understood them, They did say the remote wire need to be shielded, so your explanation makes sence. connect it at only one end
Old     (big_ed_x2)      Join Date: Jul 2004       05-18-2005, 10:39 PM Reply   
So let me get this straight....Take a piece of wire and wrap it around the cable,one end is not gonna be connected to ANYTHING and just end the wire wrap at the end of the wire that I'm shielding right?!And the other end ....ground it to the battery?!?

And I'm done?!?
Old     (bob)      Join Date: Feb 2001       05-19-2005, 6:58 AM Reply   
there is a weaved material that you can use made specifically for sheiding wires, not sure how effective just wrapping a wire would be as you said, how many wraps per inch??
Old    master_rixter            05-23-2005, 10:17 PM Reply   
I have a different problem with the same deck, hopefully someone can help (the dealer hasn't been able to help via phone anyway and I don't want to haul it all the way to the dealer to fix it).

I have the XD3 in my 2004 MC X9, dual amps one amp driving a set of tower mounted kickers, the other amp driving the factory installed Clarion sub and speakers.

Last year, it worked like a champ, then I disconnected the battery for the winter. In the spring, after charging the battery and connecting everything back up, the tower mounted kickers work fine, but the factory speakers produce only bleed through sound, only the subwoofer seems to get any power. I switched the clarion outputs between the 2 amps and the problem moves to the other amp and the tower speakers are muffled and the factory speakers work fine, so has to be something on the clarion. I checked all of the settings (Z+, Bass, treble, fader, tone and sub settings) but nothing I do makes any difference.

I really don't think that the deck is blown and my dealer is 60 miles away, so hauling the boat all the way down to check a stereo problem isn't practical)
Anyone have any ideas?
Old    cwkohler            05-23-2005, 10:38 PM Reply   
I had the same problem you are describing this year. I bet you have a mono D amp and a digital transom remote. I spoke with one of the techs at Clarion and he told me that the mono D amp changes frequences as the volume/power increases causing the digital transom remote to "mute" "scan" and so on... They had me replace my digital remote with an anolog remote and it works fine.
Old    master_rixter            05-24-2005, 9:27 AM Reply   
Thanks - Both of the amps are stereo amps, the factory amp is a 200W four channel (with the back channel bridged for the sub) and the other is a 200W 2 channel to drive the kickers. When I swap the inputs, the problem moves with the deck output channel, so it is definitely an issue with the XMD3 deck.

I've got the dash mounted analog (wired) remote, and not the transom mounted remote so I din't think that's the issue, but it's a good thought.

Do you have a line into a good tech at Clarion? Their customer support people are pretty clueless.
Old     (rich_x2_owner)      Join Date: Apr 2004       05-24-2005, 10:03 PM Reply   
The problem is with disconnecting the battery. What happend is the XMD3 changes back to the factory settings. if you push the title button until the sub woofer setting comes up then change it to say rear, that should fix everything. It will probably say something like LPF 50 or LPF 120 use the scroll buttons and change it to REAR.
Old    master_rixter            05-24-2005, 10:24 PM Reply   
Cool I'll give that a shot tomorrow.


Old     (big_ed_x2)      Join Date: Jul 2004       06-01-2005, 8:32 AM Reply   
yesterday I spent about 1 and a half rerunning my cable for the remote and I just hooked it up straight without trying to weave it through the interior,from the stereo across the passanger seat across the floor straight into the remote and SAME CRAP!!

I guess the only thing left is to try to insulate but I'm a little confused because as of right now the wire is not touching any other wires,just going across the seats and the carpet and I believe it's alittle better but it didn't solve my problem.


Old     (big_ed_x2)      Join Date: Jul 2004       06-02-2005, 10:00 AM Reply   
Do I try to put aluminum foil around the wire or should I try to wrap a wire around it and ground it on one side.

Maybe both??
Old     (skibum69)      Join Date: Aug 2004       06-02-2005, 10:06 AM Reply   
wrap a wire around it and ground it on one side
Old     (big_ed_x2)      Join Date: Jul 2004       06-02-2005, 10:10 PM Reply   
Did that and SAME CRAP!Maybe helped very little but NO GO.

Any to fix the problem or maybe new stereo?

This sucks and it's lame!
Old     (bob)      Join Date: Feb 2001       06-03-2005, 7:27 AM Reply   
Big Ed, there is a sheilding material you can buy but a way cheaper way would be to wrap foil and tie wrap in a bare wire the whole length, just to be sure, and ground it on one end to a known good ground.
Old     (big_ed_x2)      Join Date: Jul 2004       06-03-2005, 9:53 AM Reply   
Will try that today and let you know.

Thanks Bob


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