I posted this on the Tigeowners forum last week but there's obviously a much bigger audience here. I'd love as much constructive input as possible, specifically concerning the sub or subs and batteries. I ordered my new RZR with the EIDB (dual batteries) but since I plan on having at least 3 batteries for the stereo I'm wondering if I could do better for the money (around $600 if I remember) or if that is not the most optimal battery system.
I've already started planning the stereo in my new RZR that is scheduled to go into production Feb. 2nd. With the Boat Show pick 3 specials it made sense for me to get the Tower of Power upgrade since all I had to do was pay for the upgrade cost.
First of all I want to say that I think Wet Sounds makes a great product and probably has the most complete marine audio line up. That being said, most of the Wet Sounds equipment is coming out once I get the boat in and more importantly, once I get time to do it. I am a JL Audio home dealer so it makes sense for me to use JL in the boat.
I need some input on the batteries and the location of them. The boat is coming with the dual battery setup and perko switch. I believe they use Interstate batteries but I could be mistaken. What charger should I get to charge the boat and stereo batteries while stored? Is there an on board charger that will charge the stereo batteries while the engine is running? I'm guessing the factory alternator will not like trying to charge all of the batteries if the Perko switch is set to all?
Here is what I am planning:
Tower Speakers - 2) Wet Sounds Rev10
Tower Amps - 2) JL Audio MHD750/1, one wired for Left and the other for Right. I know this is a ton of power but I think the 750/1 is a better choice than a 600/4 and it gives me plenty of power should I decide to add a pair of Rev8's.
In Boat Speakers - 4) JL M880CCX in the main cabin (if I can make them fit), 2) M770CCX in the bow with a 4 or 8ohm resistor (I want more power sent to the 8.8" and really don't care much about the bow speakers). I may even either put the bow speakers on a separate amp or a switch so that I can turn them off if needed. We have 2 small boys and last year while hanging out on the beach on a buddy's boat one of my boys got tired and napped in the bow. We had the stereo on but had to actually go and disconnect the bow speakers so that he could nap and we could still keep the rest of the stereo on.
In Boat Amps - 2) JL Audio MHD750/1, one wired for the Left speakers and the other for the Right speakers.
Subwoofer - I can't decide what to do here! With space being so limited in the RZR, I really don't want to use the storage under the passenger helm so I plan on keeping the sub under the driver's helm. I really want good, smooth, low bass. I expect the 4) 8.8" and 2 Rev10's will have great mid bass and upper sub bass so I would really like the subwoofer to just play from 50hz or so and down, which is how I've always tuned my vehicles. After talking to a couple friends though the problem in a boat is that really low bass just doesn't transfer like it does in a car until you are quite a ways away and it just seems to rattle the boat to pieces. A good friend who I really trust said the best in boat sub systems he has done have been ported and tuned to a pretty high frequency around 40hz. Any thoughts or input on getting good bass in the RZR or similar Tige boats from under the driver's helm? I have a 12W7 but I don't think there is any good way of getting that in there in a ported enclosure. I was thinking about a new 12W6V3 ported or a pair of 10W6V3's ported (2 10W6's ported may also be too big.
Subwoofer Amp - JL HD1200/1
Head Unit - Factory Installed Clarion. How is the preamp output voltage of this head unit? Do you notice as much improvement in a boat vs a car with a line driver installed? I have a Tru Technologies SS6LDi that I pulled out of my truck recently before I bought a new truck. I don't see myself having the time until probably next Fall/Winter to work on reinstalling the stereo in my new truck. It is a pretty phenomenal line driver.
Processor - Wet Sounds WS-420
Power Control - Each 'zone' will have a switch wired to the turn on lead so that I can easily turn off the amps rather than just control the level from the WS-420. This should also save some current draw on the battery.
Batteries - I plan on adding 2 additional batteries for the stereo for a total of 3. I don't see us doing a ton of parking and jamming the stereo for hours on end but I'm sure it will happen a couple times a year. Can you easily install 2 more batteries near the factory batteries in the rear lockers and keep it symmetrical as far as weight balance? I need some suggestions on batteries. I always thought you should use all the same batteries, especially when wiring them in parallel.
Charging - I need some suggestions here.
Sorry for the novel! This will take a while to finish, especially since the boat is several weeks out still and the JL M880CCX and W6V3 aren't expected to ship until the 2nd quarter which for JL usually means late 3rd quarter.
Thanks in advance for the input.
FYI, once I get around to swapping everything out in the boat, I'll have a Wet Sounds Syn6, Syn2, XS10FA Sub and 6) XS-650 for sale. I haven't thought about the pricing yet but I'm sure I'll price them to sell quickly; I have way too much stereo equipment laying around as it is!
If anyone wants to claim any of this stuff now, I'll hold it for you until I can pull it out.