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Old     (h2ohangtime)      Join Date: Aug 2002       03-06-2011, 9:12 PM Reply   
Well, my battery died this winter, so that means it's time to pull the trigger on the multi-bank expansion. I'm hoping you can help verify that my assumptions in this wiring diagram are correct. Due to space and cost requirements, I'll be using a flooded group 34 as a starting battery and 2 flooded group 27's (total of appx 170 aH) as my house bank (not Optima's as shown). I want to be able to utilize a SurePower 1314 while operating the boat but I also want to be able to charge the batteries with a multi-bank smart charger when I put the boat away, which is why I included the BlueSea switch. Also, the blue numbers represent wire gauge if that wasn't obvious.

Let me know what you far as safety, functionality, and practicality go. I studied Mikeski's schematic for his boat, so this diagram is loosely modeled after his design.


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Old     (david_e_m)      Join Date: Jul 2008       03-07-2011, 5:32 AM Reply   
Two issues.
That is the wrong type of battery switch for that application as you've circumvented the SurePower function while underway.
The particular boat will impact the final schematic according to our approach as to where we place the helm fuse/breaker panel.

Earmark Marine
Old     (h2ohangtime)      Join Date: Aug 2002       03-07-2011, 6:38 AM Reply   
David, thanks for the reply. I'll still be running the same fuse breaker panel that came in the boat (2002 Super Air)--I was just using the other one as a symbol in the diagram. Which kind of switch do I need? Just one with a single on/off/combine functionality?
Old     (seth)      Join Date: Sep 2002       03-07-2011, 10:18 AM Reply   
I dont think you need the BlueSea switch. I have the 1314 and a smart charger and there are no problems when charging the batteries.
Old     (h2ohangtime)      Join Date: Aug 2002       03-14-2011, 9:26 PM Reply   
Sorry to revive a week-old thread, but I have a new version of my wiring diagram that I'm hoping you can help me with.

I've changed the switch (now using a BlueSea 5511e, with ON-OFF-COMBINE settings). My goal is to achieve the following:

1) Automatic operation with SurePower 1314 when underway
2) Complete isolation for AC Charging
3) Option for emergency starting/bypass of SurePower in the unlikely event of failure

My questions are mainly around the gauge of wire I'm using (blue numbers)--is this heavy enough? The longest runs are the ground cable between the two battery banks and the positive cable from the house/stereo bank to the switch. Both are appx 9-10 feet. Also, is my wiring of the switch and the SurePower correct given the above goal?
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Old     (Kaikane)      Join Date: May 2010       03-15-2011, 9:01 AM Reply   
Hi Tony,

Your second diagram is basically how I have wired up my system. Here is the link to a pretty useful website regarding electrical current and the formula for wire guage / amperage rating, It's personal preference (and some would say overkill) but when installing additional electronics on my cars, boats, and RV's; I have always advocated spending the extra money for higher quality wire and stepping up the guage for whatever application you are using.
Old     (h2ohangtime)      Join Date: Aug 2002       03-15-2011, 4:40 PM Reply   
Thanks Lorrin...I'll give that site a look.
Old     (chpthril)      Join Date: Oct 2007       03-15-2011, 5:54 PM Reply   
If you are planing on using the "House" bank as a backup starting bank, that 150 fuse/breaker will not carry the load of the starter.

If the primary starting battery takes a dump, combing it to the House bank will more then likely draw them down leaving you with 3 dead batteries.


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