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Old    Benjamin (bendow)      Join Date: Sep 2005       02-17-2011, 9:42 PM Reply   
Could one of you stereo wizards review my wire diagram for me? I put it together so I could make sure I'm not missing anything and get a better picture of what I'm doing.

I'm not sure what fuse size I should use coming directly off the battery, and don't know if I should have a fuse before the accessory distribution block. Not sure what sub to get, but I do know it has to be a 10" if I want to have correct box size, was thinking DD2510 would go well with the x1200.1

The batteries will be close to the amps, so I don't think any of the power/ground wire will be longer than 4ft

Anyway, just ordered the amps, have the batteries, and still need to get a few other things, just want to get my ducks in a row and make sure I'm not forgetting anything.

Old    Benjamin (bendow)      Join Date: Sep 2005       02-18-2011, 6:43 AM Reply   
I have more questions, actually.

-Do I need the heavy duty battery cutoff switch or will the standard one be ok?

-Is 4 gauge power/ground wire too thick to run to the Blue Sea 5025 fused distribution block?

-Should I have an inline fuse before the Blue Sea 5025 fused distribution block?

-The amplifier 0 gauge power wire to the dual 4 gauge out distribution block has a 150A fuses for both of the outputs, should I still have an inline fuse before the distribution block?

-Is 2V preouts (2 pair to the 4 channel, and 1 pair to the mono amp) enough voltage for this setup, or should I have line amp, booster, whatever they're called?
Old    Nu Bu (05mobiuslsv)      Join Date: Apr 2006       02-18-2011, 8:25 AM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by bendow View Post
I have more questions, actually.

-Do I need the heavy duty battery cutoff switch or will the standard one be ok? No your current one should be good for 250 amps IIRC.
-Is 4 gauge power/ground wire too thick to run to the Blue Sea 5025 fused distribution block? As long as the block will accept the wire that big it's good.
-Should I have an inline fuse before the Blue Sea 5025 fused distribution block? No not necessary.
-The amplifier 0 gauge power wire to the dual 4 gauge out distribution block has a 150A fuses for both of the outputs, should I still have an inline fuse before the distribution block? No the dist block fuses are sufficient, it's a short run within 2' or so correct? If there was a long run from the back of the boat to the front then yes.
-Is 2V preouts (2 pair to the 4 channel, and 1 pair to the mono amp) enough voltage for this setup, or should I have line amp, booster, whatever they're called? 2v is pretty wimpy and is probably closer to 1v by the time your amps see it, better to be around 5v if you can. Some amps can't handle alot of voltage though especially now days. I guess it depends if you want to spend the money.

See bold print above. The diagram looks good. You are running 14 awg to each speaker right? I would not supply power/ground to your head unit like you have it. Run the power and ground to one of your amps instead.
Old    Benjamin (bendow)      Join Date: Sep 2005       02-18-2011, 9:47 AM Reply   
cool, thanks for the reply and direction.

Yes, 14 awg to the speakers

Yes, the 0 gauge will be less than 2ft, so guess I'll ditch the inline fuse as you suggested.

I don't understand what you mean by running the power and ground to my amps. I didn't know you could do it that way. If I did do that way the head unit would bypass the distribution block and the power cut off switch which means I wouldn't be able to cut off the power to the head unit correct?
Old    Benjamin (bendow)      Join Date: Sep 2005       02-18-2011, 9:50 AM Reply   
and about the 2v preouts, I reading on some forum and I noticed a guy who had the Exile X1200.1 was complaing about his head unit preout, which I think was 2v, wasn't cutting it.

I'm just trying not to spend more money than I already have and will by adding something if it really isn't necessary, but guess I'll go ahead and add one
Old    Brian (brianinpdx)      Join Date: Aug 2009       02-18-2011, 10:02 AM Reply   
Ben - You have got to much free time at the office! Nice chart. I'm guessing that the amplifiers you phoned me about worked out from the looks of this chart. haha!

When it comes to accessories, the marine application is a bit different than one of the mobile audio environment. I would suggest not buying all those distribution blocks and going with a single +/- Distro block that goes from 0 gauge inputs two 4 gauge outputs and has built in voltage readout and contains fusing. It's cleaner and a more central design. give me a shout when you have a moment and I'll find the model brand for you.

-Brian
Exile Audio
Old    Benjamin (bendow)      Join Date: Sep 2005       02-18-2011, 1:11 PM Reply   
What's up Brian? Ha...ya, it's a beautiful diagram huh? I made a diagram to remember how everything went (since I kept on forgetting) and ask the more knowledgeable to review it. I didn't have the slightest clue on stereo installation so I paid some d-bag to come out and install the current stereo in the boat. He robbed me...he had 2 amps running off 17ft 8 gauge power/ground wire. So I ripped everything out, asked a billion questions here on WW, and did it myself. Point being, I learned a lot on the last install, but no expert, and I need a diagram! lol

Yup...I got those amps! I found the 800w and 1200w brand new for a killer deal. They were display models, but never used.

All the distribution blocks you see are for accessories, e.g., retractable stripper pole, that are not associated with the amps other than using the same battery. I already have the 0gauge to 4gauge fused distribution blocks. What I really need to know is if I should have a preamp on the RCA's between the AMP and Head Unit. I assume you'd be the best person to answer this...
Old    Murphy Smith (murphy_smith)      Join Date: Dec 2005       02-18-2011, 2:08 PM Reply   
How long is your RCA run from the Head Unit to the Amps.

I added a Matrix Line Driver to my system years ago and it made a huge difference!

http://www.audiocontrol.com/14164/pr...ne-Driver.html
Old    Benjamin (bendow)      Join Date: Sep 2005       02-18-2011, 6:49 PM Reply   
Murphy, that line amp is nice, but more than I want to spend. Are there any sub $100 ones that are good? I'm going to get short RCA's...if I can find them. The distance from the head unit to the amps is about 2 ft

Also, I'm curious about what Nubu mentioned about running the power and ground from the head unit to one of the amps...
Old    Earmark Marine (david_e_m)      Join Date: Jul 2008       02-18-2011, 7:26 PM Reply   
A JL line amp or Kicker dual line amp with controllers are less. I'm not comparing them to the AC but they are both very good products. You will definitely benefit from more gain at the source.

The most important reference is between the source electronics and amplifiers because they are in the signal path. Plus, as Phil from Kicker has pointed out in the past, the largest amplifier usually has the greater filtering capacity (parallel capacitors) just inside so these primary terminals are the optimum location to tap. The comparative resistance is so low when everything is within the forward port locker and cables are very short that it probably won't make a difference. However, if the source electronics and amplification were in the front while the batteries were in the transom or engine compartment, I would definitely reference the source to the amplifier rather than direct to the battery in order to limit any potential difference.

David
Earmark Marine
Old    Benjamin (bendow)      Join Date: Sep 2005       02-19-2011, 2:59 PM Reply   
Thanks David. I'll try it with short RCA's and see how it does before I go spending money...

I still want to understand what Nubu was saying. Should I or should I not run the head unit through the accessory distribution block?
Old    TigeMike (chpthril)      Join Date: Oct 2007       02-19-2011, 3:59 PM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by bendow View Post
Thanks David. I'll try it with short RCA's and see how it does before I go spending money...

I still want to understand what Nubu was saying. Should I or should I not run the head unit through the accessory distribution block?
The most important part is to have the head-units B+ and Gnd share the same battery as the amps, and if I am reading your diag correctly, they are. If the amps are a closer run, then terminate those two connections there at one of the amp's + and - lugs.
Old    TigeMike (chpthril)      Join Date: Oct 2007       02-19-2011, 4:19 PM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by chpthril View Post
The most important part is to have the head-units B+ and Gnd share the same battery as the amps, and if I am reading your diag correctly, they are. If the amps are a closer run, then terminate those two connections there at one of the amp's + and - lugs.
Ok, looking closer, I see that the head-unit is running to the battery switch, but you dont indicate which terminal you are running to. If you were planning on running to the C post, then you need to rethink. if you are going to terminate it to the same post, then I would relocate to the amps if they are a shorter run.
Old    Benjamin (bendow)      Join Date: Sep 2005       02-19-2011, 4:44 PM Reply   
UGH! my diagram is turning into one of those hidden 3d pictures....and it's giving me the middle finger...

thanks for the reply Mike. The way I wrote the diagram...is everything is running off the same battery. I will have terminal connectors on the battery, with 0 and 4 gauge terminations on the same lug. The 0 gauge is running to the amps and 4 gauge running to the fused distribution block.

I planned to have the power and ground from the unit run to the switch panel (same as a toggle switch) and from there go to the fused distribution block, which is connected to the same battery the amps are. I just assumed there should be a fuse between the head unit and the battery if I did it this way.

What you're saying is to put the +/- from the head unit into the +/- on the amp...the same +/- ground that the amp is powered and grounded by? I google this method and was able to find anything. What is the benefit to this? Could I run it the +/- from the head unit to the toggle switch and then the amp? I just want a way to be able to cut power to the head unit....or is that even necessary?

sorry so many questions...
Old    TigeMike (chpthril)      Join Date: Oct 2007       02-19-2011, 5:07 PM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by bendow View Post
UGH! my diagram is turning into one of those hidden 3d pictures....and it's giving me the middle finger...

thanks for the reply Mike. The way I wrote the diagram...is everything is running off the same battery. I will have terminal connectors on the battery, with 0 and 4 gauge terminations on the same lug. The 0 gauge is running to the amps and 4 gauge running to the fused distribution block.

I planned to have the power and ground from the unit run to the switch panel (same as a toggle switch) and from there go to the fused distribution block, which is connected to the same battery the amps are. I just assumed there should be a fuse between the head unit and the battery if I did it this way.

What you're saying is to put the +/- from the head unit into the +/- on the amp...the same +/- ground that the amp is powered and grounded by? I google this method and was able to find anything. What is the benefit to this? Could I run it the +/- from the head unit to the toggle switch and then the amp? I just want a way to be able to cut power to the head unit....or is that even necessary?

sorry so many questions...
In your diag, is the "Perko Cut-off" a simple ON/OFF switch or a multi-battery switch?
Old    TigeMike (chpthril)      Join Date: Oct 2007       02-19-2011, 5:19 PM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by bendow View Post
What you're saying is to put the +/- from the head unit into the +/- on the amp...the same +/- ground that the amp is powered and grounded by? I google this method and was able to find anything. What is the benefit to this? Could I run it the +/- from the head unit to the toggle switch and then the amp? I just want a way to be able to cut power to the head unit....or is that even necessary?

sorry so many questions...
Yes, exactly. use the amp's + and - terminals to draw the head-units B+ and Gnd from. This gives the best source for a clean (no white noise) connection.

Use the head-units red switched B+ as the on/off. Rune it to a toggle on the helm. The head-unit will draw very little current when the boat is between uses. For long-term storage, pull the ground from the battery. The fact that you will be installing a charger, really solves the minor current draw issue anyway.
Old    Benjamin (bendow)      Join Date: Sep 2005       02-19-2011, 5:28 PM Reply   
the perko is just an on/off switch. Do you think I even need that?

Ok... I think I understand what you're saying. I thought the head unit just had +/-. So the red B+ just goes to the toggle switch and that's it right?
Old    TigeMike (chpthril)      Join Date: Oct 2007       02-19-2011, 5:38 PM Reply   
Having the on/off before the accessories BUSS is a nice and easy way to insure none of the accessories got left on.

The head unit will have a yellow that needs to be a constant B+, then a smaller red that needs to be switched.
Old    Benjamin (bendow)      Join Date: Sep 2005       02-19-2011, 7:17 PM Reply   
Got it. I was really confused since I didn't realize how the head unit power worked, thought it was just power/ground. Thanks for getting me straightened out.
Old     (Thrall)      Join Date: Oct 2010       02-21-2011, 11:36 AM Reply   
I don't think you need the disconnect switch between the battery and the Blue Sea dist block other than as an insurance policy or if there's something draining your batteries. It's reccomended to have the main fuse you ?'d, but would only be to protect against a live short in that line (if it's protected I don't think it's necessary)
Check the total load from your Accessories, is the starter hooked thru this or straight off the battery? May need bigger than 4ga.
Amps don't need 0ga, especially if they're only 2' away from dist blocks. 4ga is likely sufficient.
check out this site www.bcae1.com. It will calc req'd wire guage for length of run and load.

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