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Old    MattG (pierce_bronkite)      Join Date: Jul 2003       08-03-2010, 7:31 AM Reply   
Im curious to know what settings some of you all use when shooting wake boarders.

This is currently what I use but I am always looking for ways to improve. I usually try to shoot early morning but a lot of the times I shoot early afternoon as well. Of course mid afternoon shots are the worst with the sun over head.

Camera is set to TV

Aperture f/5.6 to f/8
Exposure is 1/1000
Exposure Bias -1/3 EV or -2/3 EV
ISO 200
Focal length varies from 70MM -120MM

Any comments or advice on settings?

Here are a few shots from those settings.


Old     (Anubis79)      Join Date: May 2010       08-03-2010, 2:29 PM Reply   
I always run on Aperture Priority, usually at f/8 and anywhere from 70-135mm. Shutter varies from 1/500 on up depending on light conditions. I have a Circular Polarizer which cuts down on the light about 2/3 of a stop. Most of my shots are purely for teaching and showing people what they're doing right/wrong. I don't ride with anyone who throws down, so I don't focus on being precise with my shots.
Old    Walt (Walt)      Join Date: Jan 2003       08-03-2010, 6:37 PM Reply   
I shoot aperture priority too but @ f/4 ISO 100. You loose control of your aperture setting when shooting shutter priority and that's no bueno IMHO.
Old    Rich Dykmans (richd)      Join Date: Oct 2003       08-03-2010, 8:18 PM Reply   
Why the negative EV?
Old     (Anubis79)      Join Date: May 2010       08-04-2010, 1:03 AM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by richd View Post
Why the negative EV?
Reduce blown-out highlights. It's pretty easy to do when you let the camera choose your shutter speed and you're shooting a reflective surface like water. It's much easier to fix a slightly under-exposed image than it is to fix an over-exposed one. And unless you're a pro or someone who's really studied photography, you're not going to have time or possibly not even want to make all the minute adjustments needed for that perfect magazine quality picture, each and every shot, into and away from the sun.
Old    Randy Scagliotti (wakedad33)      Join Date: Oct 2005       08-04-2010, 5:32 AM Reply   
Aperture Priorty or Manual
Shutter speed 1250 to 1600
ISO 200 (but changes depending on light conditions)
f/4 to f/8
100mm from the tow boat shooting portrait style
Old    MattG (pierce_bronkite)      Join Date: Jul 2003       08-04-2010, 7:12 AM Reply   
Quote:
Reduce blown-out highlights. It's pretty easy to do when you let the camera choose your shutter speed and you're shooting a reflective surface like water. It's much easier to fix a slightly under-exposed image than it is to fix an over-exposed one. And unless you're a pro or someone who's really studied photography, you're not going to have time or possibly not even want to make all the minute adjustments needed for that perfect magazine quality picture, each and every shot, into and away from the sun.
Thats exactly why I have a negative EV. I have had a lot of over exposed images with the sun and water.


Im gonna try the Aperture priority next time I am out. Thanks for the feedback.
Old    Rich Dykmans (richd)      Join Date: Oct 2003       08-04-2010, 7:51 AM Reply   
So you're running a CP and reducing exposure? Interesting. CP effects are based on sun angle and I found it impossible to keep one adjusted properly in a moving boat winding around on the Delta but I guess if one had a nice straight run on a lake a CP could be effective.

I'm so used to shooting RAW I forget not everyone can or wants to adjust their shots. I generally find myself pulling up the mids & blacks in my WB shots that why I asked. Thanks for the explanation.
Old    Rob VLX (skull)      Join Date: May 2002       08-04-2010, 9:09 AM Reply   
I can't stand using a CP myself. In a moving boat the sky usually looks uneven. I find I it much easier just adjust the sky using Nik Vivisia (sp?).
I always shoot in Aperture Priority and try to keep the Aperture as high as possible (but not over f8) while keeping my shutter 1/1000th or greater. When it isn't bright outside I will go down to f2.8 and adjust my ISO upward to keep the shutter 1/1000th or no slower 1/800th. I use focus "one shot/manual focus" and AI Servo just depending on the situation.
Old     (Anubis79)      Join Date: May 2010       08-04-2010, 12:18 PM Reply   
I don't use the negative EV and the CP, I was just explaining why one would use the negative EV. I only end up shooting for about an hour, and the way the lake runs in relation to the sun there isn't much alteration to be done to the CP at the times of day that I'm out, and it's a nearly straight run of about a mile, 2.5 for a complete circuit. Plus the CP just stays on my 70-300 and I can't be bothered to take it off. I might take it off next time I take the camera out. I shoot RAW, I just don't even try adjusting anything because the shots are just half-assed as it is and not worth the time.
Old    MattG (pierce_bronkite)      Join Date: Jul 2003       08-05-2010, 7:34 AM Reply   
Well I went out and tried using AV instead of what I am used to which is TV. However I had a hard time getting the proper shutter speed. I noticed a lot of my shots were 1/250. My aperture was about f/5.6 and ISO was 200. It was ideal lighting, time was around 7:30. How are you guys setting the shutter speed in AV mode?

I just got a Canon 50D hence the questions. Before that I used a Canon Digital Rebel. For the Canon guys are you guys using the AI Servo mode or single shot focus mode? Thanks in advance!
Old    Rob VLX (skull)      Join Date: May 2002       08-05-2010, 8:33 AM Reply   
Pierce- what lens?

I own a 50D so I know it well. In bright conditions you will usually be at f5.6-7.1 and have a shutter of around 1/1000th. If you shutter speed is 1/250th you need to either open up the Aperture (maybe down to 2.8) or increase the ISO. If you go from ISO 200 to ISO400 it should put you where you need to be. ISO 400 is good on a 50D.

I use both AI Servo and one shot. If I am sitting in the middle of the back seat (so the rider is always at the exact same distance from me). I use one shot right when the rider get's up then switch to "M" on the lens. If I am shooting from the bank or on one side of the boat I use AI Servo using a manually selected focal point (I don't let the camera select the focal point).

I have has similar issues during the golden hour shooting wakeboarding. I usually set the f at 2.8 and increase the ISO until my shutter is 1/800 to 1/1000th.
Old    MattG (pierce_bronkite)      Join Date: Jul 2003       08-05-2010, 9:05 AM Reply   
Rob, great info thanks!

I used the stock lens for the first time last night (EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM). I also have a Sigma 70-300 f/4.5-5.6. Its not high equipment like you guys but it gets the job done for my needs. With those lenses I cant get down to f/2.8 so that's probably a lot of my issues.

I did notice that my shots seemed a little dark so I tried increasing the ISO to 400 and even upping the exposure to one stop. However it was about 7:30- 8:00. The focus mode is something new to me as well so I need to familiarize myself with that. Some of the shots didn't come out as sharp assuming its the focus mode. On my Sigma lens I usually use manual focus as well.

Anyway still learning this camera and photography in general. Appreciate the feedback.
Old    Rob VLX (skull)      Join Date: May 2002       08-05-2010, 9:41 AM Reply   
That is a pretty decent lens. I like it. I take it on vacation with me a lot because it is light and is very solid. I am not sure why the pics would be dark. The last time my pics came out dark with a 50D the round knob on top got hit and it moved from A to M which was set-up for studio flash at f11! My pics were VERY dark.

I don't ever adjust the exposure compensation up. If anything I adjust it down -2/3. When you look in the view finder it will blink at the bottom of the picture if it is going to be underexposed but in A mode that would be unusual because the camera would just keep slowing down the shutter to expose everything. Good luck.
Old    RileyBangerter (steezyshots)      Join Date: Feb 2008       08-05-2010, 9:55 AM Reply   
I just put it on A... That's not what you are supposed to do?
Old    Rich Dykmans (richd)      Join Date: Oct 2003       08-05-2010, 7:45 PM Reply   
50D at 7:30? - I'd open your lens all the way up, start at ISO400 and see where your shutter is at. If anything I'd also think about a little positive EC. The rider and BG generally needs more exposure then the sky, there are more shadows. (unless you're going for the silhouette look)

The 50D has bad noise even at ISO400 if underexposed at all.

AF modes is a double edged sword, if you stop down enough to have a lot of DOF you can shoot manual but you're going to have to use a higher ISO to keep the shutter speeds up. Open it up and you'll probably need some tracking even if shooting from the boat. 50D should track a wakeboarder decently in AIServo, I had no problem tracking birds with the one I had. With the one series bodies I've never had as good of results shooting WBing using static AF or manual even from the boat. They made AIServo for that and it really does a better job.
Old    Brant Williams (kitewake)      Join Date: Jul 2007       08-06-2010, 9:24 PM Reply   
Shooting from the Boat:
Full Manual Exposure Settings
AF Single Focus/Spot mode
Nikon 70-200 f/2.8 lens...usually shoot f/4-f/5
If low light forces ISO over 400....I open up more
1/1250 or 1/1600

Shooting from the Tube
Full Manual Exposure Settings
AFC Mode with 3D tracking
Nikon 17-35 f/2.8 or Tokina 11-16 f/2.8...usually shoot f/5-f/6 for DOF.
Unless you have a 24mm f/1.4 ($2200 prime), it is pretty hard to get narrow DOF in a wide lens....so might as well sharpen it up..
If low light forces ISO over 400....I open up more
1/1250 or 1/1600
Near Dusk, etc...undexpose 2-2.5 stops to ambient, then adjust flash to bring rider to proper exposure....(or at least that is the plan if I could ever get anyone to ride late!)

Last edited by kitewake; 08-06-2010 at 9:29 PM.

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