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Old    CORY MITCHELL (stang_killa_ss)      Join Date: Jan 2010       03-12-2010, 3:28 PM Reply   
Boat: 03 Mobius LSV

disclaimer: complete ballast newb here....

ok here the problem. when im driving my ballast bags will slowely fill(not all the way). like the valves are not sealing and the boats speed is forcing water into the system and into the bags. also once there full (via the pumps) they also leak out threw the hoses. ie again like the valves arent sealing and alowing the water to slowely seep out.

to solve this i drive with this manual master valve closed so the bags dont fill. (brass fitting is the single threw hull inlet for the ballast, then goes threw the manual valve (red handle), threw what i assume is a filter then branches off to the 3 valves and to the bags)


when i want to fill them i open the manual master valve, fill them with the pumps, then close the valve(after turning off pumps of course) to prevent the bags from slowely draining. works well. i but i have to keep removing the rear seat each time for access. sucks.

SO how do i fix this? are the valves not sealing? any thing i can do to make it better? or can they be rebuilt or replaced? advice?
heres what they look like (front one was easiest to take pic of)


i assume thats a electronic valve? is it also a pump?


on a side subject i need a ballast system lesson, i cant find any pumps anywhere... the only "pump like" unit i can find is on the empty side of the locker bag. cant find any pumps for the "in" side of any of the bags. but the rear bag hoses go beside the motor out of site for 3 feet so they could be there.

so are there seperate valves, inlet pump, and outlet pumps? or are these all one unit?

and what can i do about my leaky valves?
Old    Aaron Ware (99_slaunch)      Join Date: Oct 2005       03-12-2010, 3:37 PM Reply   
My Supra did the same thing. You can go to home depot and get replacement valves and solenoids. I called the maufacture of the valve and they gave me a newer part# . The brand is Orbit WaterMaster model #57100. I picked up three of them at Home Depot. I think they were like $20.00 I 've had to replace two valves on my 05

In your first pic where the ball valve is with the red handle. The big white canester attached to it is the fill pump for all three bags.

Last edited by 99_slaunch; 03-12-2010 at 3:39 PM.
Old    moombadaze (moombadaze)      Join Date: Dec 2003       03-12-2010, 3:49 PM Reply   
Stang,

in picture 1 is your fill pump-white item with black hose coming out of it-next to the red handle valve your moving to block water flow.

in your picture 2 is the valve(orbit sprinkler valve from home depot) that allows water to flow to your ballast bag when the pump is on, you may have some depris in the valve keeping it from closing tight. Remove the soliniod-black thing with the wires going into-there is a pin that may fall out. Next remove the 8 philips head screws, pull the cap off and clean out-reassemble in reverse order.

one other thing, that little black lever next to the soliniod-make sure its not partial open/closed, as that can let water seap past. its kind of a manual way to open the valve to let water flow.

Each one of your ballast bags has its own empty pump. Follow the empty hoses and you will fiind a small pump


hope ive helped you a little

Hit up moomba.com- we have a large forum there also.
Old    CORY MITCHELL (stang_killa_ss)      Join Date: Jan 2010       03-12-2010, 3:58 PM Reply   
thanks guys! HUGE help! it all makes sense now. and the part numbers will be a BIG help if i cant get them cleaned.

yeah im on moomba.com, but ive found the the past the folks on there to be... how do i say this nicely.. "just people with boats" and thats about as far as there knowledge goes.... but i posted it there at the same time. although ive think you two have answered 99% of it.

THANKS!
Cory
Old    Aaron Ware (99_slaunch)      Join Date: Oct 2005       03-12-2010, 4:00 PM Reply   
I bought my new ones and then decided to take the old ones apart to try and clean/fix them. I took the new ones with me next time out. Needless to say it did not fix them so I changed them out on the water. It's very easy to do. The little black lever next to the solenoid on the valve (manual fill switch on spinkler valve) will some times move. I put some silicone on it so it would not move.

Last edited by 99_slaunch; 03-12-2010 at 4:04 PM.
Old    CORY MITCHELL (stang_killa_ss)      Join Date: Jan 2010       03-12-2010, 4:05 PM Reply   
i noticed the wires are both black. when relacing the valves is it immaterial which wire goes where?i dont see a "+" and " -" marked or red/black wire color...
Old    Aaron Ware (99_slaunch)      Join Date: Oct 2005       03-12-2010, 4:11 PM Reply   
It does not matter but there is a number dial with an arrow in the middle on one side of the solenoid. I hooked the wires back to the same side using the number dial for reference.
Old    Curt Bowman (curt489)      Join Date: Feb 2008       03-12-2010, 7:55 PM Reply   
The little switch in front of the valve. Moving it up and down allows the valve to open manually. In the picture above the switch looks like it is in the up position. Just push it down and that will allow the plunger to drop in its natural state until you activate the coil. When you activate the coil the plunger lifts up off this little hole and allows water to flow through the valve. I have been selling sprinkler equipment for 11 years now and i have new contractors that install these kind of valves with the little manual switch. They call me wondering why the valve won't shut off and 9 times out of 10 the switch is in the up position. Any other time the valve doesn't shut off the valve has trash in it.
Old    Aaron Ware (99_slaunch)      Join Date: Oct 2005       03-13-2010, 6:59 AM Reply   
^^^ You are correct. The switch is in the open manual fill position. If that is one of the bags that is filling and you have not messed with the lever that could be your problem. My dealer was the one that suggested a dabb of silicone on the lever to keep it from moving. The valves are low cost so I would keep one or two on the boat just in case. I keep a new extra one in my tool kit.
Old    CORY MITCHELL (stang_killa_ss)      Join Date: Jan 2010       03-14-2010, 9:05 AM Reply   
well the flip switch wasnt the problem so i ordered 3 new Orbit #57100 valves last night. 13.95 at ace hardware online. i confirmed the 3/4" size in another thread here.
looking forward to getting them in! i sure hope it fixes me. i have pretty high hopes it will. all the signs point to these being the problem.
Old    A.J. West (you_da_man)      Join Date: Sep 2009       03-14-2010, 10:53 AM Reply   
Should have ordered the Irritrol 700 valves since they are inline valves. I believe the Orbits valves are "up and over" valves. There is an awsome post going on the Moomba forum about many different valve sizes and brands being tested by a few Moomba guys trying to build the ultimate fast fill system. Come to find out the Irritrol 700 valves fill about 30-40% faster than the same size Orbit valves and cost a couple dollars more each (about $60 for 3 valves). They also can use the factory solenoid and just need a simple adapter to fit the factory manifold.
Old    Aaron Ware (99_slaunch)      Join Date: Oct 2005       03-14-2010, 11:31 AM Reply   
A.J. how about a link to that thread pleas Sir.
Old    A.J. West (you_da_man)      Join Date: Sep 2009       03-14-2010, 12:09 PM Reply   
Here you go Aaron

http://moomba.com/msgboard/showthread.php?t=10357
Old    Chris Drymalla (cdrymalla)      Join Date: Aug 2009       06-14-2010, 8:46 AM Reply   
Quick question about getting power to the spinkler style valves:

It seems like most of these are operating off of 24VAC, what are you using to power the valves? Will they operate off of 12V DC?

I have an older Air Nautique and I have been looking at some valves off of ebay that were 12VDC, but these would e a great option if they wired in easily. Any advice is appreciated.
Old    CORY MITCHELL (stang_killa_ss)      Join Date: Jan 2010       06-14-2010, 9:07 AM Reply   
yes we are all using 12V to power them.

replacing the valves fixed my leaking problem (filling and draining)
but the pump wont prime now sitting still, i have to turn the pump on then, get up to 20 mph or so to prime the pump then it starts pumping water and i can come back to sitting still and it will continue to pump. but it will no long prime and start to pump if im just sitting still.
Old    Chris Drymalla (cdrymalla)      Join Date: Aug 2009       06-21-2010, 9:02 AM Reply   
Not to take this thread in another direction, but I wasn't sure this warranted another topic:

I purchased the Irritrol 700 series 3/4" valve, and I am trying to decide how to wire them in. Right now, I have three seperate lines that go from a manifold to the stock tanks, a rear locker sac and a ski locker sac. Each of the lines has two aereator style pumps (attwoods 800's). It appears the valves allow water to flow in both directions when open, so I could use a single valve to fill/empty.

Two questions:
1) Can I wire the valve in series with the pump (e.g., the fill pump) such that activating the fill pump also opens the valve at the same time
2) I would like to use one valve that opens during both fill and empty - is there a way to wire the valve to open when either of the fill or empty pumps is on?
I am thinking I would create some type of ground loop or other issue if i tried to wire the valve in series to both fill and empty pumps, but then again, would the rocker three-position switch (fill-off-empty) moving from one position to the other eliminat the problem?

If there is a better way to do this, please let me know.

Last edited by cdrymalla; 06-21-2010 at 9:06 AM.

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