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Old     (wakeborder5)      Join Date: Jun 2002       04-26-2009, 8:08 PM Reply   
I bought a Clarion EQ and don't know what kind of wiring I need. It came with a red wire that has some sort of white plastic thing in the middle. I'm going to take it to the guy that stores the boat in the winter and does boat repair, but want to know what wiring to see if he has it or what I need to get.

I'm going to mount it under the dash, and hopefully have it wired into the same switch on the dash as the radio..if that's possible?

Sorry for the dumb/confusing thread and thanks in advance for any help
Old     (chpthril)      Join Date: Oct 2007       04-27-2009, 5:17 AM Reply   
Have you read the directions? If you bought used and dont have them, check out Clarion's website for a downloaded PDF manual.

more then likely, it will just need a power, ground, and RCA or 2, and maybe a power for back-lighting.
Old     (roughrivermike)      Join Date: Apr 2006       04-27-2009, 5:45 AM Reply   
I'm guessing that the red wire is the positive wire and the white plastic thing is a fuse. you should have two other wires coming out of it, one being the ground and the other being the remote which will turn it on when the system is on. You should not have to wire it to any switch on the dash. That it what the remote wire is for.
Old     (wakeborder5)      Join Date: Jun 2002       04-29-2009, 8:52 AM Reply   
I'm gonna get a line-out/charging dock connector for my ipod. Now I just need to get wiring and fuses and have a few questions:

1. My ipod cable won't come with a fuse, do I need to get one? Would this work ( lectronics_Parts_Accessories?hash=item200304840891 &_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1262&_trkparms=|301:1|293:1 |294:30)?

2. My EQ came with an inline fuse, do I want to install it by the power source or by the EQ? Same thing for the ipod cable if it needs a fuse?

3. I was told I could wire both my EQ and my new ipod with 16 GA speaker wire, will these work for power? How about for remote lead? If so, is does this wire look decent ( faultDomain_0?hash=item190303125400&_trksid=p3286. c0.m14&_trkparms=72:1234|66:2|65:12|39:1|240:1318|301:0|293:1|294:50)

4. Should I wire these items straight to the battery or to the HU or what?

5. Will these wires have strong enough currents to cause noise if I wire them next to RCAs?

(Message edited by wakeborder5 on April 29, 2009)
Old     (bkoz)      Join Date: Dec 2005       04-29-2009, 10:15 AM Reply   
I have the same EQ and wired it directley to the battery with the fuse right at the EQ. I also have an ipod hookup/charger. I didnt use a fuse and wired it directley to the battery also. I used 16 gauge wire for the EQ power and grounds and tied them up with my RCA's and have no noise problems. Like mentioned you'll want to run the remote from your HU or an amp to your EQ.
Old     (philwsailz)      Join Date: Feb 2009       04-29-2009, 11:22 AM Reply   

Any power wire coming directly from the battery should be fused. I think that fuse holder shown in your link is fine, but I would probably use only a 2 or 5 amp fuse on your line out/charging dock device. Do you know what its current draw in amps is?

On the EQ, if you wire directly to the battery, the fuse should be right by the battery. If you connect to an existing voltage source, (the radio power connection is an example) you can place the EQ fuse next to the EQ.

Speaker wire is largely like any other wire. It will work for you fine for power and turn-on, but it would be so much more proper to use the correct color of wire for the installation.

The option of wiring to the head unit or the battery is totally up to you. Fuse all your power leads from the battery if you go that route though. I prefer to get my power for the head unit, and any other devices right at the amplifier. This minimizes voltage differences and assures that all audio components are powered at exactly the same voltage.

Any wire has a potential to create noise on the RCA's but most of the time, no. When we have noise on a boat install it is due to grounding issues typically... David at Earmark brought that point up in another thread, and he is correct.

Old     (bkoz)      Join Date: Dec 2005       04-29-2009, 11:56 AM Reply   
Guess I need to make a couple of changes to the way I wired mine. Thanks Phil!!
Old     (wakeborder5)      Join Date: Jun 2002       04-29-2009, 3:34 PM Reply   
Phil, thanks for the great info as usual.

The ipod cable I was looking at was the PAC ic-rca 2: . Don't know if any of you have any experience with it, but I'll call and try to get the current draw tomorrow.

So I can wire both the EQ and ipod cable to the radio power connection? If I go that route, should I still get a fuse for the ipod cable?

How exactly would I hook up the wires with going the HU route?

In regards to what type of wire I get, is there much functional difference between speaker wire and actual red/black power wire? It's just that I'm trying to keep costs down and I've been able to find it for less expensive. If I get speaker wire or black/red power wire, can any of them work as a remote lead?

(Message edited by wakeborder5 on April 29, 2009)
Old     (wakeborder5)      Join Date: Jun 2002       04-29-2009, 8:03 PM Reply   
With wiring it to the HU, how/what exactly am I hooking the powers and ground up to or do the grounds still go to the battery?
Old     (brucemac)      Join Date: Dec 2005       04-29-2009, 8:15 PM Reply

that pac won't work i don't think. not if iphone 3G or 4th gen nano.

Peripheral IS75 (nano 4th gen and iphone 3g compatible)

power with inline fuse and ground and you're set. make sure it's 3G/4th gen compat.

oh and maybe one of these: d=666&seq=1&format=2

(Message edited by brucemac on April 29, 2009)
Old     (wakeborder5)      Join Date: Jun 2002       04-29-2009, 9:00 PM Reply   
I called PAC and they confirmed that the ic-rca 2 works with the iPod Touch 2G, which is all I'm concerned about since all the other iPods my friends and I have aren't current generations. Also, I'm buying it from an authorized dealer, so if it doesn't like it claims, I should be taken care of.
Old     (philwsailz)      Join Date: Feb 2009       04-30-2009, 7:06 AM Reply   

Wire is wire, sort of... The color of the jacket does not change the function of the copper inside, so know that the speaker wire will work the same electrically as red and black power wiring. It is just not as proper as using the correct colors, so someone in the future who might be working on the boat will have a better clue about what the wire really is.

With regards to wiring the power to the head unit, we should say it better: connect it to the exact same place the head unit is getting its power. Also, each piece of electronics should have its own fuse. So, yes, I would put a little fuse on your iPod charging line-out device if it does not come with one.

In a typical stereo we have a really big fuse on the amp power wire, right at the battery. This fuse is there to protect the wire, you, and your boat in the event of a short circuit. Then every piece of electronics on that power wire will have its own fuse to protect the electronics, or at least prevent them from causing damage.

Finally, the very best place to get power AND ground for the head unit and the EQ ( as well as any other powered items that are part of the electrical system) is right off of the big power cable going into your largest amp. This makes sure that your amp, your EQ, and your head unit all are at exactly the same voltage and ground potential. This will usually make the quietest system from a noise standpoint.

Hopefully this makes sense? We are trying to deal with several issues, so I hope the points I make are all clear!

Old     (wakeborder5)      Join Date: Jun 2002       04-30-2009, 12:41 PM Reply   
How would I hook them off the power cable? Would I just piggyback the ground, power, and remote as they go into the amp:
Old     (philwsailz)      Join Date: Feb 2009       04-30-2009, 12:48 PM Reply   

I have done that in a pinch. Lots of times folks have multiple amps, so one can pull the power and ground from the distribution blocks.

I have a single amp in my power boat, so yes, I have piggy-backed the radio power wires in at the amp power connections. It does not seem as proper as a distribution block, but it is less connections in total, so I can sort of justify it...

WHen you do your wiring this way, you need to provide some sort of switch on the RADIO's red power wire. This allows you to flip that switch and turn the whole stereo system off, EQ's amps and everything. Your radio's yellow power wire does not need to have a switch.


(Message edited by philwsailz on April 30, 2009)
Old     (philwsailz)      Join Date: Feb 2009       04-30-2009, 12:54 PM Reply   
Here is a picture showing the schematic for wiring the radio power to the amp terminals. There is a relay on the right half of the picture that you might not need; it is shown in this picture for installations where three or more amplifiers are used. In this instance a 30-amp automotive relay is shown to allow use of the key switch to turn the stereo on and off as normal. If you want to use a simple on/off switch, you would just insert a simple switch between where the radio's red wire hits relay terminals 87 and 30.

This might be confusing, or it might help, but here it is in all its glory...


Old     (wakeborder5)      Join Date: Jun 2002       04-30-2009, 12:57 PM Reply   
I'm heading home right now, so I'll sit down and have a look at it when I get back, but I have the in-boat and sub amps get power from a distribution block and later a 3rd tower speaker amp was installed, don't remember how it was wired in, tho.
Old     (wakeborder5)      Join Date: Jun 2002       04-30-2009, 2:30 PM Reply   
I'll probably just wire the remote for the EQ off the amps or the HU and always have the HU on, even though I'll only use it on occasion for playing CDs and such, and that way the radio switch on my dash will turn on the HU and then that will turn on the amps and EQ.

So from what I gather it'll work if I piggyback the remote, grounds, and powers off one of the amps, since I don't really wanna get new distribution blocks. I know there is at least one pair of distribution blocks for my interior and sub amps, but they are obviously a lower gauge (4-8 probably). Would it work and be better to piggy back them than the amps?
Old     (philwsailz)      Join Date: Feb 2009       05-01-2009, 6:16 AM Reply   

It really makes no difference... Either way will work; it comes down probably to which way looks cleaner and / or is easier...

Good Luck!



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