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Old     (wakemania)      Join Date: Sep 2008       12-28-2011, 11:07 AM Reply   
I'm planning on building my sub box soon and was wandering what type of terminal cup most of you use for the box. The one I'm replacing used the spring clip kind and it looked like the springs were beginning to rust when I took it out of the boat. The only other ones I've seen are the ones that can also use the banana plugs. What is the best kind for keeping the corrosion to a minimum? I want to be able to remove the sub in the winter, so I prefer not to wire it directly to the sub without the cup (may be the best way though).
Old     (Txjole)      Join Date: Dec 2011       12-28-2011, 11:10 AM Reply   
I have not seen one that will hold up to marine use yet. A lot of marine stereo shops wont use them and run right to the speaker and knot both sides and silicone the hole.
Old     (murphy_smith)      Join Date: Dec 2005       12-28-2011, 11:37 AM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by Txjole View Post
I have not seen one that will hold up to marine use yet. A lot of marine stereo shops wont use them and run right to the speaker and knot both sides and silicone the hole.
That sounds like the sream marine way...i have done a lot of business with them in the past.

Take a look at this method done by Earmark. Scroll down and you will see it. use a bannana clip as well to plug and unplug the wire

http://www.earmarkmarine.com/install_Malibu_23.asp

Last edited by murphy_smith; 12-28-2011 at 11:39 AM.
Old     (david_e_m)      Join Date: Jul 2008       12-28-2011, 11:47 AM Reply   
Wakemania,
Definitely use a 5-way binding post (female banana jack type) terminal cup with a healthy screw-down flange around it. Its the only way to maintain a longterm seal with certainty. Use silicon as an additional gasket if you have a rough bedliner surface on your enclosure which would also apply to fortify the woofer gasket on a rough surface.
Using an oval wire in a round hole sealed with silicon is not going to hold an airtight seal forever.
If you have a really powerful woofer that is going to exurt a great deal of pressure then you can encapsulate the terminal cup for a double seal. In that case you split the wire into two round sides and use two separate holes with a silicon seal. An encapsulated terminal cup will hold up to anything. Its just the addition of a small panel with a corresponding picture frame.
Spring clip cups don't cut it.
Press fit cups don't cut it.
With any terminal cup make up, solder and heatshrink your ring connectors or spade connectors and then attach them to the interior studs with the supplied washers and nuts or to the blades if applicable. Do not solder directly onto the cup's interior terminals because this will heat or melt the plastic and undermine the cup's seal around the binding posts.

David
Earmark Marine
Old     (murphy_smith)      Join Date: Dec 2005       12-28-2011, 11:57 AM Reply   
Just to be clear it up, I did not say that there was anything wrong with the way that Scream Marine did it. I was more so giving the OP another solution as to how he could quick disconnect the box.

I have done work with Scream Marine on the past and they do a good job!

I like the way Earmark does it b/c I like to tinker around with my boat and it allows me to take to box in and out without having make any amendements to the wire.

I did not mean to offend anyone or start a WAR....sorry if anyone took it that way

Last edited by murphy_smith; 12-28-2011 at 12:00 PM.
Old     (wakemania)      Join Date: Sep 2008       12-28-2011, 12:43 PM Reply   
David, I like the 5-way you use. I'll look for those.

Anyone have experience with these? Im not sure I like them sticking out and not recessed as with the terminal cups, but they have good reviews.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...umber=091-1245
Old     (Txjole)      Join Date: Dec 2011       12-28-2011, 12:47 PM Reply   
No war from me, i've used them both. David did a boat and my truck and both good installs. I used Tim on this last boat and am very happy aswell. I'm not a fan of the cups because all the ones i've seen look like cheap import junk. My sub is close to the amp and I can pull the wires from the lugs if I need to remove.
Old     (david_e_m)      Join Date: Jul 2008       12-28-2011, 12:57 PM Reply   
Wake,
That looks like a quality part to me. You can have those recessed if you cut out a larger opening and use an interior panel.
But with several quality all-in-one cups available for the same price I'm not sure its worth the effort. Look how many quality home speakers use a 5-way binding post cup.

David
Earmark Marine
Old     (bendow)      Join Date: Sep 2005       12-28-2011, 7:24 PM Reply   
I ran 8 gauge from the amp, through the box, and directly to the sub...works great.
Old     (camassanger)      Join Date: Oct 2009       12-30-2011, 2:21 PM Reply   
I ran two small stainless bolts through 2 holes and made the attachments to each side of the bolts. The 25 cent solution :-)

Pretty much the same thing as the link above actually
Old     (david_e_m)      Join Date: Jul 2008       12-30-2011, 2:51 PM Reply   
Derek,
That works well. We do the same thing on any enclosure with an acrylic display window because we don't want to view the terminal cup from the inside.
David
Earmark Marine

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