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Old     (ship_of_fools)      Join Date: Sep 2007       11-03-2009, 7:47 PM Reply   
I just installed a Clarion EQS 746 and now I have a pop in my speakers when I hit the trim button.

I have all the stereo equipment running on it's own battery and everything is grounded back to that battery.

The RCA's cables are not ran by any power wires.

The pop may have been there before the EQ but, if it was, it was definitely much quieter. I do not recall ever hearing it before but I pulled the RCA's from the EQ and went back to the amps from the HU and there was a slight noise when I hit the trim (but I did leave the power, remote power and ground still going to the EQ)

Any ideas on how to eliminate this?

Thanks
Old     (ssmith)      Join Date: Jan 2010       08-23-2010, 1:27 AM Reply   
Resurrecting this old thread.....

I've never had any problems with the factory system I had. However, I only had 1 amp powering the 4 tower speakers and a sub. All of the in boat speakers were run off the HU.

I've just done a stereo upgrade and now have 3 amps (nothing is run off the HU now). I now have the popping noise alot of people talk about. However, I also get static over my speakers when the blower is turned on.

Has anyone experienced this???
Old     (philwsailz)      Join Date: Feb 2009       08-23-2010, 7:35 AM Reply   
Scottie-

The sound of the noise is different, but the cause is similar or same. Fans typically create buzzing or static as you say, and it really is just a rapid series of little pops like the trim switch creates.

Treating fan noise is basically the ame as treating pops. Go through all the remedy items David at Earmark and I suggest in this thread, starting with turning the gains down if they are too high, and observing proper marine audio power and grounding practice. If that doesn't fix it, you will want to install some capacitors as recomended in this thread.

It is really not too hard to fix, just take a systematic logical approach and do the proper things, in order... We'll talk ya through it and answer questions....

Phil
Kicker
Old     (ssmith)      Join Date: Jan 2010       08-24-2010, 8:37 PM Reply   
Phil,

Thanks for the reply. I installed the capacitors on the wake plate trim today (2 total, 1 up and 1 down) without any luck. The pop is still there. I messed around with it a bit more and have discovered that basically all the accessories (trim, ballast, blower, 12v outlet) I tested created either a pop or static in the speakers. I know we did zip tie alot of the wires together so I'm going to break those loose and create some distance between the RCA's, speaker wire and power cables. Maybe that will help. This is all very frustrating to say the least. Will this noise damage speakers or is it more of a nuisance? Either way, I want it fixed. It seems odd to me that I didn't have this problem before and do now. However, there's a lot more wire and more amps. Its strange though that it affects all the accessories.

Last edited by ssmith; 08-24-2010 at 8:47 PM.
Old     (philwsailz)      Join Date: Feb 2009       08-25-2010, 6:49 AM Reply   
Scottie-

Did you use poplar or non-polar caps? If you used polar, there is a chance you wired then in backwards.

Re-bundling wires can help sometimes, but it usually is not the cuplrit people make it out to be...

Where is your radio power connected to the boat's electrical system? Over the last 6 or so years we have deteremined that for the quietest noise-free installation, your head unit needs to get it power at the same voltage potential and ground plane as your amps, and the easiest way to do that is to wire your head unit's power wires, (red, yellow, and black) directly to your largest amplifier. From the factory, most head units are wired into the helm wiring and often even on a different battery from the amps, and this is a very common cause for noise.

Your yellow wire needs to go straight to the +12v terminal of your biggest amp. The black needs to go to the ground terminal of your amp. The radio's red wire needs to go through a switch of some sort. Many times, we use a 30A relay which allows us to use the old switch power lead, (the old red one) as a trigger for the relay. That way, you can can turn your head unit on and off the way you used to. IF by chance you have a simple switch at your helm that turns the radio on and off, you can just disconnect the wiring from it, (taping it off or removing a fuse to prevent a short) and use the switch on a new run of red power wire from the qamp, through the switch, and to the head unit.

I have attached a couple of non-schematics, (actually pictures) that show the twop options I describe. If you did not re-wire your head units power when you added the amps, this may very well take care of it. I have also added a 3rd pic to show the use of a 30A relay when three or more amplifiers are used. Many times, the turn-on circuit of a typical radio will not have the oomph to drive 3 amps, os it is often a good idea to use a relay to get power to the turn on connectors of the amps.


Outside of re-wiring your head unit power, understand that the very condition you describe of hearing lots of noise from all accessories is a very common symptom of gains being turned way too high. Please check your gains again, if they are over half-way up, you probably have an issue. Ideally, you want your gain controls as low as possible, not the other way around...

Good luck, study the pics,ask questions, and let us know!

Phil
Kicker
Attached Images
   

Last edited by philwsailz; 08-25-2010 at 6:59 AM.
Old     (david_e_m)      Join Date: Jul 2008       08-25-2010, 8:13 AM Reply   
Just want to add something to Phil's statements all of which are very accurate. Most will not understand the difference in wiring all source electronics to the largest amplifier terminals versus directly to the battery since both go there anyway. It may not represent much of a difference when the source electronics, amplifiers and batteries are all tightly packed in the same port locker. However, when the source unit and/or batteries are positioned around the boat then the right reference point becomes a bigger deal. Referencing everything to the batteries in that case will not be as effective.

David
Earmark Marine
Old     (tinytdubb)      Join Date: Jul 2007       04-09-2014, 10:03 PM Reply   
I seriously wouldn't resurrect a dead tread in the summer but since it's spring what the heck.

I need this fix but I have no clue how to wire these capacitors in. Literally no clue. These things look like corn cob holders, how do I wire them in? I totally get the location. Just not the how to. Thanks ahead of time for any help.
Old     (Greeko)      Join Date: May 2013       04-10-2014, 2:09 PM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by tinytdubb View Post
I seriously wouldn't resurrect a dead tread in the summer but since it's spring what the heck.

I need this fix but I have no clue how to wire these capacitors in. Literally no clue. These things look like corn cob holders, how do I wire them in? I totally get the location. Just not the how to. Thanks ahead of time for any help.
Cut the positive wire you plan to connect to and put in a butt connector in its place. On one side strip the wire and wrap the long lead of the capacitor. If you can solder do this, if not just twist them together and put the butt connector on. connect the short lead to negative/ground via butt connector, add a longer wire and a ring terminal to hook it onto your battery ground or distribution block.
Old     (tinytdubb)      Join Date: Jul 2007       04-11-2014, 11:11 AM Reply   
Greeko. That helps. Thank you. The trim tab on my Supra makes a world of difference in wake shaping. But the popping deters me from using it and it makes my Pro80's sound like they're going to blow. I'm shocked that I can't find a YouTube on this

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