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-   -   '02 san 210 help (http://www.wakeworld.com/forum/showthread.php?t=799424)

rmotoxxx711 08-05-2013 10:56 PM

'02 san 210 help
 
Hey guys I know a lot of people have the old style Super Air Nautique 210s and am running into a problem I could use some shared knowledge on...
I think that I'm starting to take on water lately when I take the boat out cuz there's an abnormal amount afterward. I know it's not ballast (at least the back two for sure) and the other obvious stuff. But I do think a solid possibility is the drive shaft seal cuz I've heard of that in the past with other boats and I've never re done that seal. Has anyone had this problem or has anyone redone the shaft seal? Any help is appreciated

Oh and I'm no stranger to spinnin wrenches on trucks and boats but this is new to me.

05dirtymax 08-05-2013 11:19 PM

I have a 97 SS, basically the same boat. I was having that problem, but it was coming in through my rub rail when i was weighted down. I took off my rub rail and split the seam of the boat then used some 3m 5200 to seal it back up. It has been good ever since other then whatever water gets in from getting on the back and the shaft packing. Normal amounts though.

rmotoxxx711 08-05-2013 11:25 PM

I feel like I would see water coming in down one of the walls if I was leaking at the seam...? We're you seeing signs of leaking along the inside edges?
I end up with about 5" deep of water below the motor after about 2-3 hrs

SangerTom 08-05-2013 11:33 PM

Have a 05 Sanger. Had the auto-bilge come on at the lake yesterday. Heard water trickling in. Found water coming out through a pulley shaft to the fresh water pump. Maybe check there.

rmotoxxx711 08-05-2013 11:36 PM

Another option ill def check as I had a squeaking for a sec from water on the belt too

jbach 08-06-2013 9:06 AM

5 inches is quite a bit of water for 2-3 hours. it may be one or of all of the above others have mentioned. to check your prop shaft packing, i found it easiest to pull the back seat and floor and hard tanks if you still have those in. drop it in the water and see what's going on. if the prop shaft is leaking more than a few drops a minute you can take off the wire tie, loosen the jam nut and tighten the shaft nut. it needs some water to stay cool, sometimes they drip a few drops a minute, sometimes not (gore packing stays cooler IMO, it wouldn't have this from factory).

Things to check;
-prop shaft packing
-rudder packing (does not need near as much water lubrication as prop) should not drip, but should not be too tight to turn.
-rub rails
-start engine, inspect all hoses.
-check muffler for holes that may have developed
-check to see if any water is running past seals on raw water pump.
-check ballast system

hrwboarder 08-06-2013 9:10 AM

We had the same problem on our '01 210. As stated above we pulled out the back seats and then ran the boat and there was WAY too much water coming in through the shaft seal. Our bilge would run almost continuously through the day before we fixed it. Now it rarely every comes on.

rmotoxxx711 08-06-2013 12:48 PM

When I hear shaft seal or packing I think of a bearing behin a seal. Should I be replacing this seal or just checking and tightening the shaft seal my down? Or repacking any bearings (guessing that the shaft spins freely in that seal and there is no bearing). Thanks again for the help

markj 08-06-2013 1:34 PM

Okay, I think I may have an answer here. First, is this happening when you're surfing? If so, I figured out where water was coming in on mine while surfing. It was back feeding through the bilge pump hose since I sink mine down to the rub rail for surfing. Now I just put duct tape over the holes while we surf. Problem solved for me.

rmotoxxx711 08-06-2013 2:02 PM

Unfortunately don't surf much but def a good thing to keep in mind that I overlooked but I do put 3k in ballast for riding

DenverRider 08-06-2013 5:44 PM

My 210 runs dry as a bone but I've had boats in the past that filled the hull for different reasons. My old TIge had leaky exhaust seals that would fill the hull pretty quickly unless I tightened the clamps down good. I also ran into a problem with a heat exchanger on an old I/O years ago that would crack open over the winter if I didn't drain it properly. Have someone run up the RPM a bit in neutral while you're floating to get the water pumps pumping and look for the leak. Idle RPM probably won't create enough water pressure to initiate the leak. Anything that's water cooled could be the source. Check all of your hoses and exhaust output really well. Everything that gets pumped in goes back out through the exhaust. Make sure to bring a flashlight.

Jmorlan 08-06-2013 7:29 PM

This sounds exactly like the problem I'm having with my 01 centurion!
Almost like I could have written his post word for word.

Ill check into some of the things you guys talked about too.


Sent from my futuristic Apple device while in my office doing nothing.

bschall 08-06-2013 9:18 PM

The blower vent on the 02 SAN is right above the swimstep and that is where it takes in a lot of water. The blower fan comes out of the left side of this spot but if you get water into that space the drain hose flows right into the the hull of the boat. It drives my pops crazy so he wants to block the hole or change it so the hose will drain into one of the ballast tanks. I think that running the bilge every once in a while gets rid of the water enough. I suppose you could also install an auto bilge in place of the original one and if you kept power going to it at all times it would only run when it is needed.

slidin_out 08-06-2013 9:41 PM

Check the seal around the water filter. On my 03 SANTE it leaked some and it was located behind the bench seat at the front of the motor.

jbach 08-07-2013 8:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rmotoxxx711 (Post 1837539)
When I hear shaft seal or packing I think of a bearing behin a seal. Should I be replacing this seal or just checking and tightening the shaft seal my down? Or repacking any bearings (guessing that the shaft spins freely in that seal and there is no bearing). Thanks again for the help

not even close. your prop shaft and rudder shaft are sealed with a wax rope packing gland. it's 3 or 4 layers of wax saturated rope, wrapped around the shaft held on by a stuffing/flax nut and a locking nut. it needs water (small amount of seepage from water thru hull) to cool the rope while shaft is turning. it is 100 year old technology that works very well. if repacking, there are newer materials (gore) that can virtually eliminate any dripping. here is a decent tutorial on repacking a stuffing box. it may just need to be tightened a 1/8 of a turn or so. if it bottoms out, you need to restuff the nut with 3 or 4 layers of new wax rope.

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/s...box&page=1

newer boats have dripless packing which basically forces water thru the hull from inside out to prevent any dripping. yours can be retrofitted, but i see very little benefit. repack it with goretex rope if it needs it, inspect it once a year and it should be good to go for many years.

sidekicknicholas 08-08-2013 8:05 AM

Quote:

I have a 97 SS, basically the same boat. I was having that problem, but it was coming in through my rub rail when i was weighted down.
+1 to this on our 95 SS.

The driver's side rub rail (where it hooked down at the rear) would leak on ours. Just popped a lot of silicone in there and problem was solved.


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