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-   -   Synthetic Teak (http://www.wakeworld.com/forum/showthread.php?t=796905)

grant_west 02-10-2013 11:57 AM

Synthetic Teak
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Ok this project is back on track. Last year I was ready to pull the trigger on a synthetic teak floor. And it retrospect I'm glad I held off. I got samples of NuTeak, Flexi Teak, Dek King, they were all very close is color and feel. Our new boat came with a Synthetic Teak floor product called PlasTeak, so before I pulled the trigger on any one of the 3 products I had in hand I thought I would see how the synthetic teak floor in our new boat felt & held up. First thing was the Heat! The PlasTeak was HOT. I brought out my samples of the other 3 I had and tested side by side if any one was hotter or cooler than the other. All 4 samples were equal in their temp. This was a Major red flag for me and put the project on HOLD. I really wanted the look and feel of the Synthetic Teak but was not a fan of the side effects. So that was last year. Synthetic teak floors have a whole new line of products, including a new product called Cool Teak. The company claims its 20-30 degrees cooler than its Original product PlasTeak. As well as a bunch of New colors to choose from they even offer a product that glow's at night. So with that said prepping the floor. i have to finish the edges around the ski locker and motor box and in the meantime I'm awaiting new samples before I pull the trigger on the product. Here is a pic of the boat.

grant_west 02-10-2013 12:04 PM

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grant_west 02-10-2013 12:10 PM

Hey if anyone has another synthetic Teak decking material LIKE the stuff mentioned above. Not intrested in SeaDeck or Hydro Turf Gator Grip ect. Not that there is anything wrong with that material just looking for somthing diffrent
They want added to the test then please post a link or contact me so I may consider it.

yjwrangler95 02-11-2013 1:17 PM

how many amps do you have in that boat

grant_west 02-11-2013 3:41 PM

Derek; 6 total. 4" SE 2300's 1for each 12W7 and 2 PPI 4200's = 1000watts to the tower and 1000 watts to the hull.

chattwake 02-11-2013 7:10 PM

Have you considered using actual teak? I mean, you're a freaking project god, so how sick would it be to have real oiled teak floor in your wakeboat?

chattwake 02-11-2013 7:13 PM


downfortheride 02-11-2013 10:36 PM

G your match has just been met... Real teak means one legit Nautique!

chattwake 02-12-2013 6:12 AM


Sheeeeeeiiiiit Grant, a garage wizard like you should be able to follow these simple instructions, and knock out a real teak floor in about a weekend. Hahahahaha. Seriously, looks like a ton of work.

chattwake 02-12-2013 6:27 AM

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/AlDB--8iJR4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Ohhhh. Wait, check out this video. This actually looks doable.

grant_west 02-12-2013 7:39 AM

Chat: the problem with real teak and the Pre made floors his height. They add 3/4 of a inch or more to the height (they raise the floor) so both of my sub boxes would need to be re made and I'm positive i couldn't fit the new ones In anyways. It's very very tight. #2 real wood needs to be refinished. And on a swim platform or a rear deck or a older boat with little to no electronics refinishing although dusty and messy it's not that big of a deal cause you can clean up pretty easy either blow off or hose down. The interior would get hammered every time you refinished the floor and the would be at least 1 time a year.

chattwake 02-12-2013 7:42 AM

Well, if you have to refinish 1x per year, then I guess I understand. It would still be badass though.

wakecumberland 02-12-2013 8:34 AM

Teak really dosent require sanding (dusty) as general maintenence. Since the teak floor is not hanging off the back of your boat and exposed to the elements, I think you would have to do much less maintenace than what you are thinking. However, thats not your only concern so I guess its a no go on the real stuff. I'm with Chatt though, it would be BA.

grant_west 02-12-2013 9:29 AM

Wake; your right Teak when coated or Varnished and Not exposed to elements doesn't require all that much work. But as a person that refinishes Metal wood and stone for a living I know exactly how long Teak lasts out doors, around here that's 1 time a year. And that's with a pretty thick varnish. Oiled finishes are going to last even less time out doors. Stripping and re finishing the floor in my boat is one of the last things I want to be doing come summer time. I like the look of a Non varnished or "Flat" or Oiled finished teak. I like the looks and feel of a oil'd floor its closer to what the Syenthitic Teak floors look like.

Brearly_Mason 02-12-2013 10:55 AM

Grant, did you see that Ultra Ever Dry product? I posted a thread with some info in it. I figure that you could somehow incorporate it in one of your builds.

grant_west 02-24-2013 8:55 PM

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I got some new samples

grant_west 02-24-2013 8:57 PM

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I'm pretty sure I'm going to go with the traditional darker color it's the one in the center

grant_west 02-24-2013 9:00 PM

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This weekends project was to sand the floor.I striped and sanded the floor. Next step will to
Be refinish all the joints at the ski locker and around the motor.

grant_west 02-24-2013 9:02 PM

All the Joints will be sanded and then Fiberglassed Black so where the floor stops at the edges it will have a nice black gell coat edge

UNvisible 02-26-2013 3:31 PM

grant how about a close up of how you anchored your amplifiers to the side of the boat like that.. What are those standoffs made from and how are they affixed to the hull?

grant_west 02-27-2013 12:29 PM

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Here are samples of the lighter colored grout joints. It's strange how much lighter the Teak looks with the cream cord grout joints.

williamburell 02-27-2013 1:38 PM

far left all day

chattwake 02-27-2013 2:20 PM

Ah, just do the whole thing pink astroturf.


boardman74 02-27-2013 2:33 PM

Pink with the neon yellow as an accent!!

chattwake 02-27-2013 2:39 PM

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chattwake 02-27-2013 2:41 PM

Sweet baby jesus that would be awesome. Especially with black light speaker rings.

tx_foilhead 02-27-2013 3:56 PM

Crap, the last thing I need is more ideas for projects. While you have it all apart you should gel the bilge, carbon wrap that muffler and anno the motor cradle. Looking forward to watching another project.

dezul 02-27-2013 4:02 PM

Where is the nitrous bottles and the spoiler?

grant_west 02-27-2013 4:50 PM

Chat. Lol That floor material is pretty cool for some applications. I have even seen a material like what you posted that has the look of synthetic teak. Tan with white grout joints . I have even come across a material that's like woven bamboo. It's called SeaGrass.

grant_west 02-27-2013 5:08 PM

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Tim; if you want Fast & Furious check out this Glow in the dark synthetic teak. PlasDeck makes this material and the white grout joints glow Blue the stuff is crazy. Here is a sample. This shot was taken in doors and you can clearly see it glowing can't imagine what it's like after a full day of sun and then at night this is the material in the day

grant_west 02-27-2013 5:48 PM

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Here it is indoors

chattwake 02-28-2013 5:47 AM

Grant, you have to go with that glow in the dark teak. That's the bees knees!

grant_west 02-28-2013 7:38 AM

I could see the Glow Teak looking very cool in a newer style boat like a Blue G23. I'm pretty convinced the traditional color with black joints is the best combo for my boat and taste. It is cool to see and know what products are out their & that's why I needed to see it first hand and see if it would work in my boat and it looks like glow is a no go for me.

williamburell 02-28-2013 10:20 AM

you have a price on the reg with black joint? I'm getting hassled to change the carpet and this might work. Also have you tried it out to see if it is slippery when wet?

grant_west 02-28-2013 11:13 AM

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Will. Depending on what you want to do and how you want your floor layed out it could be as cheep as $1100 for DIY material. That's Material Glue and Shipping.
Or you can template the floor and have them build the floor in the factory and then have them ship it to you and all you do is prep the floor and glue it down. That can be as cheep as $1500. I put together and drawing of what I wanted and sent it over to them and they gave me a price. This is what I sent them

UNvisible 02-28-2013 4:23 PM

bueller bueller.... amp stand offs.. any way you can tell me about them old buddy pal grant?

tx_foilhead 03-01-2013 11:41 AM

They're on metal trays, go look at the build thread when he put in the 4 W7's it all there pics and everything.

grant_west 03-02-2013 3:59 PM

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Prepping the joints

grant_west 03-03-2013 9:29 PM

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Got the joints cleaned up and smoothed out. Started to make the floor sections that will be replaced.
These sections needed to be bigger and taller then the stock ones. So I combined 2
5/8' boards together to make a 1-1/4 thick floor section.
These sections will be Rhino lined.

grant_west 03-04-2013 11:17 AM

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2 Down 1 to go.

Brearly_Mason 03-04-2013 3:37 PM

How much weight are you adding to your boat and does this Synthetic Teak float? What about hull flex, does this stuff have any flex to it or is it rigid?

grant_west 03-04-2013 4:21 PM

I'm guessing when it's all said and done going to hundred pounds. The synthetic very flexible. It's glued to the hull with a semi flexible. Adhesive The floor will be Made up of many individual pieces that are welded together to Matt That Matt iOS then CNC routerd to match the template provided them That's one of the advantages of sending it to the factory Is that they plastic weld each individual strip to each other

grant_west 03-06-2013 9:08 AM

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The clear plastic material used to make the floor template showed up today. This material will be layed down and used to mark out a template.

cadunkle 03-06-2013 11:05 AM

Why are you putting wood into a boat that was originally all composite? I would be looking at Coosa for that, layer it up for required thickness with biax between each layer and on top/bottom as well and use epoxy resin. At the very least if you're putting wood into this boat I'd coat it with CPES until it won't soak up any more and put a layer of glass on top and bottom. Seems like with all the work you're doing it would be best to not put something in that will eventually rot, but particularly not put that wood in there without treating and covering with glass.

grant_west 03-06-2013 11:18 AM

Cory: Spoken in the voice of Darth Vader "Ahh My young apprentice" The wood got a coating of epoxy resin followed by some good old Rhino Lining. I dropped the Parts off yesterday fro Rhino Lining and I should get them back in the next day or so Ill post some pic's But your on the right track. Any wood that go's in the boat gets some kind of waterproof coating. I couldn't source the stock material used to make the floor board's and by the time Im all done with the floor it will be water tight.

alindquist 03-06-2013 1:20 PM

Any reason why you didn't just use starboard? You would think with all the extra work waterproofing the wood starboard wouldn't have cost anymore, it would have been a lot less work, and there wouldn't be any chance of failure...

grant_west 03-06-2013 3:00 PM

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Alindquist; I use almost a whole sheet 4x8 CCX plywood. It was around $33 Dollars.

You can't get the starboard in 5/8 the closest you can get is 3/4. A Sheet of King Starboard 4X8 is over $600 with out shipping.

alindquist 03-07-2013 2:59 PM


Not sure on shipping... Either way, Carry on, I'm sure it will turn out awesome, You're projects normally do.

grant_west 03-08-2013 11:21 AM

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Here are the floor pieces getting Rhino Lined

grant_west 03-10-2013 3:36 PM

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The template is getting close to being finished. My might not be able to see the clear plastic on the floor but the edges are marked either by blue tape or black pen. The string running down the center of the boat marked the center line and helps the factory line up the pieces so all the lines match up. The template will be rolled up and sent to the factory where they will measure it with a computer and then CNC cut it

grant_west 03-10-2013 4:17 PM

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grant_west 03-10-2013 4:46 PM

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The piece in the open bow will be glued to the floor and then the plas deck glued to that

03-10-2013 5:46 PM

grant, looks like a kick ass project and i DEFINATELY want to see pics after.. i just browsed the pics quick.. but why wouldnt you consider a sea-dek foam flooring... or even better sterling... easy to clean, looks just like teak and soft and cool on your feet

grant_west 03-10-2013 7:22 PM

Joe; have you see what a soft floor like what your taking about looks like after 3 years?

03-10-2013 7:29 PM

To be honest, i have... the sea dek product which you see in the new nautiques ETC is junk... its soft, it porous, its spongy... you can literally take a pressure washer to it and destroy it.. HOWEVER, Sterling is NOT it is so darn durable, it unbelievable.. its so durable Grant that last year i spilt 4 drops of used oil on my swim platform.... pull out the 600 grit sandpaper.... GONE... Epic uses it now and its killer... I dont wear shoes in my boats whatsoever, however my boats were at the boat show and i would say i had(in between all shows) 3000 people stand on and rub theit feet all over my swim platforms that have this foam on it.. these people have their nitty griity boots etc on... pulled out the pressure washer and its perfect... no BS

grant_west 03-10-2013 7:43 PM

I would like to see and play with the material your talking about. Because I agree the sea deck is super nice but it seems pretty fragile. Most of the 2 years or older boats I have seen with sea deck look like they have lots or wear. Not saying its a bad product just that it takes a beating and shows wear more than I would like. The nice thing about it is that you can just peal that bad sections out and replace them.

03-10-2013 7:45 PM

yes, grant i dont have a spare piece but i could get one and send it to you... id be happy to... i feel its thee most kick a$$ product.. thats why EPIC uses it...lol

WakeDirt 03-10-2013 9:51 PM

Ive been considering re doing my deck, where can you pick sterling up?

03-11-2013 11:14 AM

i think you would have to go directly to the manufacturer..

norcalrider 03-11-2013 12:19 PM


Originally Posted by EPIC (Post 1810782)
i think you would have to go directly to the manufacturer..

Link? A google search isn't helpful.

grant_west 03-12-2013 10:11 AM

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Here is where I marked out the Margins or boarders. I'm not going to so full margins just a few places like the motor box and the curve around the back seat.

matt_beck 03-13-2013 7:34 AM

Looks like a one shot deal? Getting that floor back off once it's down is going to be a PITA. Much worse than carpet and sealing it to avoid mold etc.? Although with the stuff you've done in the past this is cake. You should take out the shaft seal and paint it. You know, just for fun?

grant_west 03-13-2013 11:50 AM

Matt: the whole Idea of this is to have a more permanent alternative to carpet and sea deck style flooring. I don't see the need to have to ever pull the floor back up like you suggest. As far as painting the shaft seal ?? Are you serious. Sanding and painting is for suckers all that hard work is a waste of time and you could break a sweat doing so. It's all about the plasti dip! LOL
No wonder why there is a 2 page thread "if Malibu's are built well"

matt_beck 03-14-2013 7:39 AM

Definitely kidding Grant. I have seen what you have done in the past and imperfections are not at the top of your list. I just hope whatever you use will last. Just keep all the "what ifs" in your head. Wish I had a neighbor like you in my hood.

grant_west 03-15-2013 10:56 AM

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Well after a what seems like forever I have my template complete.
It will get rolled up and shipped off to Ohio.

chadgreg 04-22-2013 2:22 PM

Awesome project! Any Updates?

grant_west 04-23-2013 7:41 PM

The floor ship's from the factory Wednesday (tomorrow) it will be on a cross country adventure for 5 days and I will let you know what she looks like

Dmac420sj 04-23-2013 10:08 PM

Man you do work!! Do you ever use the boat !! Lmao I just keep seeing projects

Dmac420sj 04-23-2013 10:09 PM


matt_beck 04-24-2013 6:08 AM

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That template is worth all kinds of money. I did the same to my boat, cut out some lightweight conveyor belt and placed it over the carpet to protect it. Works great.

grant_west 04-24-2013 7:53 AM

Matt; when I was shipping the template off and the question "would u like insurance" for the package came up I was like??? Do I want to insure $20 worth of clear plastic? Then I thought about all the time I spent making sure it was just right and thought about how much I would t want to Re-do it again. So Insurance was a no brainer. The template got their no problem and so far so good. It would be cool if someone could use the template down the road but I doubt that would be the case. I don't know if I would trust someone's else's template to work for me so I'm sure it will never see the light of day.

williamburell 04-24-2013 7:56 AM

I've had a month long woody over this. Is it done yet? My doctor is concerened I've broken the 4hr mark by weeks

Dmac420sj 04-24-2013 8:31 AM


grant_west 04-24-2013 10:54 AM

Will: if you were to see the bill this project ran up Im sure it would cure your problem in a few seconds.
My floor turned out to be 80 square feet. And at a cost of $40 a Sq foot it adds up quick. That's not counting the template and prep as well as the rest of the material to get it to this point.

MICAH_HARPER 04-24-2013 12:16 PM


Originally Posted by grant_west (Post 1818447)
Will: if you were to see the bill this project ran up Im sure it would cure your problem in a few seconds.
My floor turned out to be 80 square feet. And at a cost of $40 a Sq foot it adds up quick. That's not counting the template and prep as well as the rest of the material to get it to this point.

that sure is alot just for a floor....dang

grant_west 04-24-2013 12:30 PM

Micah; I agree. It was more than I had set aside for but, it's also something I really wanted and you always seem to find a way to make things happen for things you really want. It wasn't until I sent in the template and had fully committed to the project did I get the final cost. And by them it was to late to turn back lol. I'm looking forward to getting the floor back and getting it installed. The boat is at a stand still until I can get the floor in. It feels like I haven't had the use of the boat forever and it's only been just over a year.

williamburell 04-24-2013 1:33 PM


Will: if you were to see the bill this project ran up Im sure it would cure your problem in a few seconds.
My floor turned out to be 80 square feet. And at a cost of $40 a Sq foot it adds up quick. That's not counting the template and prep as well as the rest of the material to get it to this point.
does not compute. 3200 bones? holy crap! I didn't spend that on my entire interior being redone. Better look good! Btw didn't kill it one bit

bass10after 04-24-2013 1:52 PM

I take it you're planning on keeping the boat for a long time to come grant? I'm surprised you don't want something roomier in a v-drive config vs. dd. I had a dd for a long time and couldn't wait to get a v drive as soon as the opportunity ($$) came to afford a decent one. I understand to each his own, just curious what you prefer about the dd. Back on track, can't wait to see the project complete, you always do outstanding work.

ilikebeaverandboats 04-24-2013 2:19 PM


Originally Posted by matt_beck (Post 1818394)
That template is worth all kinds of money. I did the same to my boat, cut out some lightweight conveyor belt and placed it over the carpet to protect it. Works great.

dude I cant imagine how hot that gets in the summer....

corerider 04-24-2013 2:59 PM

$40/sqft?!?! I just got nauseous for you Grant! I wouldn't think real teak would even cost that much. I wonder what it would have cost just to spray gelcoat and put down SeaDek or something similar? I was expecting this to be closer to a $1500 maybe $2000 project. It will look great once finished, but WOW this stings!

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