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-   -   which Perko switch model and material do i need (http://www.wakeworld.com/forum/showthread.php?t=794012)

bill 06-19-2012 2:58 PM

which Perko switch model and material do i need
 
ok i want to get a Perko swicth for my boat as i finally decided i need two batterys and want to hook them up correctly .

so the Perko swich has like 4 models which one is best? also while im ordering what else d i need with iut to get it and the two batterys hooked up correctly?

finally i am loking at boat hook up with one engine and two batterys install. it appears i need to put a negative ground thats running to single battery and simply connect it from that one to the 2nd with another winre, then take a positive from each to the perko swicth to 1 and 2 , and finally a separate wire from starter to common on perko swich?

is that all there is to it? also on the starter common how is that ran?


I have a 2000 supra launch direct drive and as of now a single car battery and one deep cycle marine battery i just purchased.

so can i get some help?

thanks in advance

bill 06-20-2012 7:51 AM

anybody?

murphy_smith 06-20-2012 8:14 AM

I'd do a Blue Sea 9001e.

It is better product and better made than Perko. Keep in mind it has 3/8" posts versus the 5/16" on a Perko, so you may to change some terminal lugs or just drill them out.

bill 06-20-2012 8:33 AM

^^^ok so what else do i need to order with it beside the 9001e swicth to complete the installtion for atwo battery set up?

can you quickly walk me through the process?

TIA

murphy_smith 06-20-2012 9:41 AM

Other than the Blue Sea 9001e, you would really only need some addtional wiring, battery lugs and heat shrink....or you could just order or get premade cables.

For the new battery you will need a cable that does from the switch to the positive terminal on the new battery. I'd go with 2 guage wire, one end will be a 2 guage 5/16" hole lug and the other will be a 2 guage 3/8" hole lug

Next you will need to connect the negatives terminals to each other on each battery. I'd go with 2 guage wire and both ends will use a 2 guage 5/16" lug.

You can can take a 3/8" drill bit and widen the exsisting 5/16" hole

murphy_smith 06-20-2012 9:42 AM

It may just be easier to go with a perko - they are not bad, just not as good IMO.

That way everything would be a 5\16" hole lug

bill 06-21-2012 6:54 AM

what is this separate wire from starter to common on perko swich, i am assuming this is the positive red wire already connected to the main existing battery?? http://www.perko.com/images/catalog/...(8500INS1).pdf

so other then whats on the boat now as far as wiring goes i just need one new wire to connnect negatives/both batterys? and two new red positive wires to go from each battery to perko switch?

also since my main battery has already worked fine for years but is a basic car battery and my new one is a deep cycle which should i use as my #1 main and which for the stereo #2 ??

I am assuming the deep ctcle would be best to use when the boat is off and tied up and set as my #2 and it has the extra studs etc to put stereo wiring on more easily but what do you guys think?

also how are you guys running these to keep them charged etc..how often in 1, 2 or both?how are you alternaing them?

murphy_smith 06-21-2012 7:13 AM

Bill - we actually have met before, you replaced my capacitor on our home unit last summer. I'm on DWB every now and then.

Yes, you are correct in your first statement. Your current red wire that is going to the positive on your battery is now going to go to the commom on the battery switch.

You will need a total of three wires. Two of the wires will be ones that go from the 1terminal and 2terminal on the back of the switch to the positives of each battery. The third wire will be a negative wire connecting the grounds of each battery.

I would use the started as 1 and the deep cycle as 2.

So when you start the boat and a running around the lake, I'd set the switch to the both or 1+2 position. This way you alternator will charge both batteries and the current will be supplied for the whole boat from both batteries as well.

If you turn the boat off and listen to music for a while, then flip it over to the deep cycle.

IMO - the goal is to have to mess with that switch as little as possible. By starting the boat in the 1+2 position, you never have to flip the switch until you turn the boat off. It is not necessarily bad to flip the switch when the boat is on, but I prefer not to.

For charging - just run them on 1+2.

06-21-2012 7:16 AM

absolutely do not run the boat in "both/all" mode. that's only for emergency starts. you'll ruin your batteries; especially since one is deep cycle and one is cranking. as for charging, you need to charge them individually.

murphy_smith 06-21-2012 7:19 AM

Here is a simple diagram

http://i509.photobucket.com/albums/s...ith/Switch.png

murphy_smith 06-21-2012 7:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mojo (Post 1761614)
absolutely do not run the boat in "both/all" mode. that's only for emergency starts. you'll ruin your batteries; especially since one is deep cycle and one is cranking. as for charging, you need to charge them individually.

Are you serious - a battery charger or alternator does not recognize a starter verse deep cycle battery. If one was a lead acid and the other was a gell cell - then your above statement would be correct.

There is more than one way to run a battery back up syste.

bill 06-21-2012 12:36 PM

yea murphy i remember you i guess ill order this all online unless someone local has them in stock.. do you know of anybody close to fort worth that may carry them in stock? IO already checked oreilly, frys and walmart .. noone has them..

bill 06-21-2012 12:37 PM

thanks for the help it is like i pictured.. I read you should never turn the switrch while on as it could hurt the alternator unless you have the alternator safety deal wired in with the swicth..

murphy_smith 06-21-2012 1:20 PM

I'd order it....going to be much cheeper and probably better componenets. I have a pretty sweet lug crimper that you can borrow if needed - let me know if you are every in North Dallas.

http://genuinedealz.com/

bill 06-21-2012 1:41 PM

i found the perko 8501 dp at cabelas in fw yea its afew bucks more but its instant gratification and that costs :P ill pick up the wires thewre or at an autoparts store.. no biggie.. ill get this installed before sunday so i can test it out.. :P thanks for the help

polarbill 06-21-2012 2:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bill (Post 1761722)
thanks for the help it is like i pictured.. I read you should never turn the switrch while on as it could hurt the alternator unless you have the alternator safety deal wired in with the swicth..

The perko style switches are msotly make before break switches so it isnt' a big deal to switch between what battery or both while running. Just don't switch off.

As for different batteries don't really worry about it. The only thing I would try and avoid is using an onboard charger to charge your starting bank and house bank together.

bill 06-23-2012 2:56 PM

ok i roughed in the install to make sure it could work for now and will come back to it to better crimp the common/old posisitve loop i had to add on..

Parts:

So I picked up the Perko 8501DP from cabellas along with two red positive and one black negative 32" 3/8 wires withstud loops on both ends, one battery lug with stud for positive lug with no wire crimp just goes over lug and provides a stud to run a loop wire from, and a another that for the negative that you actually put a battery negative lead in the end but also has a stud for running a looped wire off top, and one crimpable copper loop n the end of the common/old positive battery lead.

install was pretty straight foward and only thing i need to do is get a actual crimper to put the one end on better but other then that was an average project.

I also used an oversized battery box for y main battery so could put the battery plus a 2x6 along the front end to mount the perko switch.

Like i said its all hooked u but will go back to clean it up and make more permanent when i know it all works well, it isnt so hot out side, and im not so busy. ill post some pictures.. next..

thanks for the help..

bill 06-23-2012 3:34 PM

5 Attachment(s)
ok here a few pics

bill 06-23-2012 3:37 PM

1 Attachment(s)
one last pic.. ho e it works well..

SteveW 06-24-2012 9:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bill (Post 1762290)
ok here a few pics

I am anal when it comes to my wiring and 2 things that I would change/fix would be:

2nd pic----One of the positive wires going into the perko has a chunk of the insulation missing as it goes into the lug exposing the wire. You should use some nice heavy duty shrink tubing around all connectors where the lugs and wire cone together. Thats a place where you are going to start to introduce corrosion.

3rd pic----The one negative/ground cable has just a cheap clamp on connector. There is no room for something like that on a boat. You can see the wiring is already exposed and is begging for corrosion to start in. Ditch that connector and get the appropriate sized lug and shrink tubing and you should be good to go.

If you are having trouble finding the right terminals/wiring/supplies check out http://www.delcity.net/

Did you say that 2x4 board was a temporary thing? Or are you going to actually run it like that?

bill 06-24-2012 2:53 PM

steven thanks for the advice

i may find something other then the 2x6 but really have no other options to the location so i may used treated wood or wrap it in grey carpet to match the compartment etc..theres nothing to mount too nor anything i can mount anything too as it would penetrate the outside hull or interior, the factory didnt leave me much to work with, its a12 yr old boat..

On the wiring I realize the lug on the perko you are talking about is needing shrink tube however its the one i pointed out still needs to be crimped better so its not complete, i need to get acrimper or use solder on the wire the slip on connecter and reheat to bond to copper connection .. i used vice grips and slowy crimped and then set smaller and crimned etc unti it was secure but not confident its permanent..

Lastly on the negative lug connector , not sure what typ is better because i doidnt see a lot of options other then running an entire new ground wire with factory ends on it , at this point its ok but ill look into your idea but when i get back to it ill make sure to grease and sh\\heat shrik the exposed wire plus put that anti crorrsion spray onn the lug areas..

I just had enough time and energy to get the job roughed in as stated so ill get back around to it to correct some of those issues one morning soon..


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