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-   -   My L.E.D. Install & How To (http://www.wakeworld.com/forum/showthread.php?t=777777)

mattscraft 03-22-2010 5:14 AM

My L.E.D. Install & How To
 
4 Attachment(s)
Supplies I used:
From http://www.superbrightleds.com/

7 - 3 Pod L.E.D. - ALM-x3 Blue - Cockpit & Front Cup Holders
2 - 4 Pod L.E.D. - ALM-x4 Blue - Mounted Under Helm

From http://www.oznium.com/flexible-tri-chip-ribbon-leds

2 - Tri-Chip Ultra-Flex Waterproof Strip Blue - Mounted above Rear Cup Holders
Note: I played with the placement on these, they are very bright, I found that putting them facing toward the outside of the boat toward the carpet gave the best effect.

From http://www.wiringproducts.com/
100' Parallel 18 Gauge / 2 Conductor
100' 1/4'' Polyethylene Black Slit Loom
100 - 22-18 ga. Butt Splice
(ordered extra for future Use)
All wire runs were completed using wire loom!

3M Molding Tape

All of the Super Bright L.E.D.'s have the wire routed out of the top of the pod, to get a seamless (No Wire showing) install you have to take them apart and drill a hole (5/32") to re-route the wire. (See Photo #1) The L.E.D.s are actually silicone caulked into the back of the pod, so in reality you are going to drill the front and mount the pods backwards. They are so small, no one will be able to tell the difference except me and you.

Important Note: Be sure to order at least one more pod than your application, having the wire come out of the top is a nice to have for checking your alignment. (See Photo #2) Also, test each location at night to be sure you are happy with the it.

Now you are ready to mark and drill your holes (5/32") for mounting. I used painters masking tape, seemed to stick pretty well to the gel coat.
Important Note: Be sure to measure each pod for each location as your hole/wire location for each pod will probably be slightly different. (See Inset Photo #2) Also, be sure to place masking tape over your drill hole spot so the gel coat does not crack when drilling. Before drilling, tape your EXTRA pod in place to make sure you are happy with where the light hits. I simply ran a wire from the battery to the pod for temporary power. Measure Thrice!!!

Clean the area, apply 2 small strips (3/8) of 3M molding tape to the back of the pod, feed the wire through the hole and stick in place. I did not screw in each pod; the tape seems to hold real well. Time will tell, if they come loose I have stainless #4x3/4 screws if needed. Hard to find locally, I ordered them from Bolt Depot!

I ran a separate line for each pod in wire loom. I disconnected the factory courtesy light fore and aft and made my connections there, this way all of the lights are on the same switch as the underwater lights. (All of the rears run to the rear light, dash and fronts run to the forward light.

And the final result, looks fantastic in person, photos just do not do it justice! For me one key is the entire deck is under a nice blue glow and none of the lights are blinding, so it should be fine while under way at night.

PM me if you have any questions!

stang_killa_ss 03-22-2010 6:45 AM

well done! blue looks sick!
pic of the boat they went in?

wakecumberland 03-22-2010 6:55 AM

Nice install. Can you show how you ran the wires? did you just run them along the floor or did you suspend them? Thanks

mattscraft 03-22-2010 7:05 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by stang_killa_ss (Post 1564233)
well done! blue looks sick!
pic of the boat they went in?

Here is my '09 X2, thanks!

mattscraft 03-22-2010 7:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wakecumberland (Post 1564236)
Nice install. Can you show how you ran the wires? did you just run them along the floor or did you suspend them? Thanks

Wake - Both, I ran all of the wires in Wire Loom 1/4" In almost every case, there is existing wire runs and hangers that I was able to hook up to and cable tie to. The only one that did not have a hanger or wire to tie off was the front port side, for that one I added a hanger tie under the seat base. In my case fishing the wire was pretty easy and I have open access under the seat bases the along the walls. I pre-measured the length for each run, loaded the wire into the loom, and made the run and then butt connected to each light. Each run is separate so its easy to diagnose a problem should it occur or come loose and then all are tied into the existing courtesy lights, fore and aft which is factory run/fused to the switch.

wakecumberland 03-22-2010 8:31 AM

Where do you get said "hanger tie"? I have an X2 as well and am redoing the wiring for my LEDs this years. I like the idea of taping into the courtesy lights. I think thats the plan I will go with. Thanks!

mattscraft 03-22-2010 9:47 AM

2 Attachment(s)
Wake - See attached photo, I only needed to use one of these as mentioned on the forward port side, as no wiring runs across that seat base. There is a rib under the seat that you can screw to so you do not need to worry about the screw coming through into the boat seat base. You can get these from any hardware store or from the link wiring products in the origianl post.

Also, attached is the photo of the existing cable run/hangers in all MC boats. (White Rings) If you look up under the rear cup holders you will find these. Also, on the X2, there is a cable run across the floor from the battery locker and cooler storage you can zip tie that side to.(Port)

helinut 03-22-2010 2:41 PM

Very cool. Only problem with myself doing that is my boat has carpet on all of the side walls near your feet. I wonder what the best way to mount them would be in this case?

bill_airjunky 03-22-2010 3:06 PM

Looks sweet. I'd be leary of people kicking the lights though. Mine are all suspended up under the gunnels, none on the floor. Doesn't light up nearly as well though.

wakecumberland 03-23-2010 6:00 AM

Thanks Matt!

wakebdr2002 03-23-2010 8:11 AM

Looks like a nice job. Only thing I would recommend is avoid using butt connectors. Butt connections are weak and can come apart easily. Best bet is to solder the wires and use heat shrink tubing or liquid electric tape to keep the mositure out. Moisture will find its way into the but conneciton and will corrode braided wire pretty quickly.

denverd1 03-23-2010 8:54 AM

so some double-side 3M tape is the only thing holding the pods? Looks great

mattscraft 03-23-2010 10:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by denverd1 (Post 1564771)
so some double-side 3M tape is the only thing holding the pods? Looks great

Yup, I was really surprised how strong this stuff is!!! I was prepared to use screws, I tested pulling, and twisting etc. for now they seem to be good. Time will tell, this is supposedly the stuff they use for automotive applications. Keep in mind, the pods are only x1/2x1-1/2 plastic. I have the screws if they come loose, #4x3/4 stainless. I could not find these in stainless locally, so I just ordered an entire stainless sheet metal screw set from Bolt Depot, now I have every size imaginable in sheet metal stainless screws!:D

mattscraft 03-23-2010 10:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wakebdr2002 (Post 1564743)
Looks like a nice job. Only thing I would recommend is avoid using butt connectors. Butt connections are weak and can come apart easily. Best bet is to solder the wires and use heat shrink tubing or liquid electric tape to keep the mositure out. Moisture will find its way into the but conneciton and will corrode braided wire pretty quickly.

Kevin - I hear you on that one, I considered soldering as I typically do and may go back and do that. I put in an alarm 2 years ago and used Butt connections there too, they held up so far, But (pun intended) you are correct my man!:D

03-23-2010 10:23 AM

Very nice! What was the total cost of your install? Thanks

mattscraft 03-23-2010 10:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by walker44 (Post 1564810)
Very nice! What was the total cost of your install? Thanks

$100 in LED's, 3 & 4 pods are $5.50 each, the Oznium strips are $24.00 each. $50.00 in wiring supplies, I purchased 100' of wire & loom, 50' would be enough for this project.

younguns44 04-23-2010 9:39 AM

Sweet lights


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