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-   Archive through August 01, 2004 (http://www.wakeworld.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=184054)
-   -   Fixing CNC Props (http://www.wakeworld.com/forum/showthread.php?t=177682)

07-07-2004 7:56 AM

I banged up my Acme prop. Can these props be fixed? All three blades have some damage.

mb_girl 07-07-2004 8:02 AM

Check with Acme. I've been hearing that they can be fixed, but I've also heard that they're never the same afterward.

jklein 07-07-2004 8:47 AM

Same here. My prop was damaged pretty badly. If repaired, it will not look the same because you will see the welds etc. <BR> <BR>I bought a new 525 for 315 bucks from propellors online including shipping / no tax.

boarditup 07-07-2004 9:25 AM

Acme has a list of shops that have the correct jigs for Acme props. They are shaped differently from the standard props. The repairs won't cost any more than a standard prop. <BR> <BR>I suggest you consider a second prop to run while your other one is being repaired. My price is $310 for the Acme 3-blade shipped to your door in CO. 4-blades are $335 and up, depending upon application. <BR> <BR><a href="mailto:rider@boarditup.com">rider@boarditup. com</a> <BR><a href="http://www.boarditup.com" target="_blank">www.boarditup.com</a>

07-07-2004 9:30 AM

Thanks, Karl. As soon as I figure out what I have, you'll be hearing from me. I'm not gonna bother with a repair. <BR> <BR>It looks like I'm a mooch for a week or so.

boarditup 07-07-2004 10:23 AM

No problem. I can have the factory drop ship whatever you need the same day if I can order by noon. Should be 3 days from MI to CO. <BR>

ramhouse 07-08-2004 8:16 AM

I wrecked mine a few weeks ago in Havasu..i found "Skip" and he did a great job on mine and it was back on the next day and it works the same..takes a while longer and you have to know what you are doing....just be sure they know what they are doing..

boarditup 07-08-2004 8:57 AM

To properly fix an Acme prop you need the Acme CNC machined pirch blocks. If you don't you are guessing. A lot to talented guys out there, but I prefer to have it done right to the exact specs to even the most experienced eye.

akman 07-08-2004 10:19 AM

Swass, when you hear the "shallow water beeper" going off this means to SHUT IT DOWN not SPEED up and see how hard you can hit something. <BR> <BR>You better just let Holly drive next time.......blahaahahahahahah

07-08-2004 10:26 AM

She was driving the first time it happened. I just finished it off. <BR> <BR>I hate my freakin' depth finder. I have to set the shallow depth alarm every time I start the boat, so, naturally, I rarely do it. My lessons tend to be expensive ones. <BR>

ralph 07-08-2004 9:37 PM

I got mine fixed up after hitting some concrete, it wasn't too badly munted, once I got it fixed it was good as new.

board4life 07-08-2004 10:46 PM

I have had my ACME and OJ worked at Bronson Hill propeller in Orange County, CA. They both seem to be as good as new. I was a little dissapointed that the grooves on the ACME were pretty much pollished out when I got it back.

rodmcinnis 07-09-2004 12:06 PM

OverBloated: Why were you disappointed that the machining groves were polished out? Seems like an advantage to me..... <BR>Rod

magic 07-10-2004 6:02 PM

I've had my Acme repaired twice. <BR> <BR>I swear the 1st repair made the prop even smoother, the 2nd time around it feels like it did right out of the box.

bakerds 07-11-2004 10:14 AM

Repairs come out good as new if you find a good shop or send to ACME for $95 for a 3 blade. <BR>

tigejohn21i 07-11-2004 4:55 PM

I shipped my Acme 3 blade to Acme for repair. They charged me $80 and had it back to me in about 2 weeks. My advice, have it repaired and use it as your extra and buy a new one to replace it as your primary.

07-16-2004 10:17 AM

I just wanted to thank Karl for the hookup. My prop will be here Tuesdayish. <BR> <BR>Give him a call if you need equipment - he's the bomb.

barry 07-16-2004 10:20 AM

What type of depthfinder are you using, Swass?

07-16-2004 10:22 AM

Lowrance

barry 07-16-2004 11:41 AM

You sure it wired correctly? You shouldn't have to reset the alarm everytime you start the boat.

leggester 07-16-2004 11:46 AM

You only board on one lake!!!! <BR> <BR>You should know it like the back of your hand by now! <img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/clipart/blush.gif" border=0> <BR> <BR>If you don't want the default of 10', I believe you have to reset it every time. <BR> <BR>You meet some damn nice folks in this board. Kudos to Karl!

07-16-2004 12:06 PM

I didn't wire it. If I had, the chances of that happening would've been pretty good. <BR> <BR>It didn't happen on my "home" lake. So there.

deuce 07-16-2004 1:57 PM

Not to hi-jack... Swass, I saw that you had your boat listed.... You have your eye on something else? <BR> <BR>E.J.

07-16-2004 3:20 PM

Saw that, did ya? I HAD my eye on something else. <img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/clipart/sad.gif" border=0> (The finance department overruled the sports and recreation department.)

07-26-2004 6:41 AM

Have I mentioned lately that Karl's the MAN? <BR> <BR>I don't think you'll find an Acme cheaper and he's a pleasure to work with. Now if I can just figure out how to use this harmonic prop puller....

boarditup 07-26-2004 9:37 AM

Leave a gap of about 3/16" between the prop puller and the prop. Give it a sharp wack or two with a 2 lbs hammer. Do not let the harmonic prop puller contact the prop. It is the vibration that frees the prop.

07-26-2004 9:39 AM

OK, so I have to remove the castle nut, first, then? That's where I was getting confused. <BR> <BR>(Message edited by swass on July 26, 2004)

07-26-2004 10:07 AM

Is there any hitting involved when installing the new one?

boarditup 07-26-2004 11:54 AM

1. Remove the cotter pin. <BR>2. Remove the nut. <BR>3. Thread on the harmonic puller, leaving about a 1/8" to 3/16" gap between the puller and the prop. <BR>4. Use a sharp blow with a 2 lbs. hammer or large metal hammer. Do not use a mallet or dead blow. You want the prop to vibrate. If it does not release, hit it again. It should be a hard, solid, decisive blow. <BR>5. Remove the prop and key. Use spline grease (I also used pipe thread compound in a pinch) on the shaft and interior of the new prop bore. This keeps it from sticking. <BR>6. Put the new prop on and insert the key. Sometimes you may have to put the key in place first and tap with a hammer. Gently tap the prop home. <BR>7. Thread on the castle nut. Tighhten to about 25 lbs of torque, or what the owner's manual says. 25 lbs of torque for most men is a solid pull with a 3/8" drive socket wrench. <BR>8. Replace the cotter pin and bend it over. Look at the rotation and bent it the way the prop would if it was spinning in forward. <BR>9. Stand back and admire your work. <BR>10. Ride hard, get wet.

07-26-2004 11:58 AM

That's just what I needed - thanks! <BR> <BR>I don't have spline grease. Will the marine grease that I use on the wheel bearings work?

boarditup 07-26-2004 12:28 PM

Not as well. It will wash out much easier. Use the pipe thread compound, it will work better and can be found at Home Depot, etc.

akman 07-26-2004 2:16 PM

Geezus Swass do you want Karl to drive from Michigan to Colorado to do it for you........ <BR> <BR>Karl thanks for making it basically SWASS proof, otherwise he would have hit the puller with a hammer and the prop would have fallen off onto his feet below......causing a severe sudden pain followed by some abusive language.

07-26-2004 3:50 PM

That was going to be my next question. The only way to make it Swass-proof is to keep Swass away from the tools.

07-26-2004 3:52 PM

I was going to ask what the heck the "key" is for, but I thought I'd try to figure it out myself. <BR>

wake_pop 07-27-2004 9:05 AM

Swass: Just in case you decide to keep the old Acme for a spare Jim's Prop Shop at Wadsworth and I-70 has the Acme pitch blocks. I nailed my Acme 4 blade 1st day out and he brought it back to life nicely for about $90. Sounds like a sweet deal on the new one.


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