A friend of mine just bought a couple fly high sacs. These: <a href="http://www.buywake.com/catalog/detail/FL_ZVcC1" target="_blank">http://www.buywake.com/catalog/detail/FL_ZVcC1</a> <BR>He needs a couple aerator pumps for draining them. Any suggestions for an easy fit/connection. A link to a site where they can be purchased would be great too. Would these work? <BR>http://www.starboardsupply.com/product_info.php/products_id/3017828 <BR> <BR>(Message edited by chaser on May 05, 2009)

plumbed in or just the normal throw em over the edge pump and hose? <BR> <BR> <BR><a href="http://www.wakeside.com/product/boat/ballast/ballast_pumps/fly+high+tsunami+pump.do" target="_blank">Fly High Tsunami</a>

Hows he filling them? <a href="http://www.foreandaftmarine.com" target="_blank">www.foreandaftmarine.com</a> has the Attwood Tsunami T1200 pumps for about $33 ea. Buywake should have all the fittings that Fly High makes, if not the check out <a href="http://www.sendmeaPM.com" target="_blank">www.sendmeaPM.com</a> <img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/clipart/proud.gif" border=0>

plumbed in. He has an impeller type pump to fill the sacs. Looks just like one of my ballast puppies, but it isn't reversible. He wants to attach an aerator pump to each sac for draining. So would this 1200 GPH pump: <a href="http://www.outdoorsuperstore.com/product.asp?manufacturer=ATTWOOD&amp;model=TSUNAMI +AERATOR+PUMPS&amp;cat=62201" target="_blank">http://www.outdoorsuperstore.com/product.asp?manufacturer=ATTWOOD&amp;model=TSUNAMI +AERATOR+PUMPS&amp;cat=62201</a> with this fitting <a href="http://www.wakemakers.com/fly-high-pro-x-series-fitting-w747.html" target="_blank">http://www.wakemakers.com/fly-high-pro-x-series-fitting-w747.html</a> <BR>allow him to attach the pumps right to the sac?

I'm actually looking to do something like this too and was wondering about advice on how to do it. You need separate pumps for both inflate and deflate right? But how do you get the deflate pump to work since they aren't self priming :\

<a href="https://www.flow-rite.com/store/marine/retail/marinestoreretail.html" target="_blank">https://www.flow-rite.com/store/marine/retail/marinestoreretail.html</a>

If you put the aerator at the bottom of the sac it will prime naturally. If the bottom sac has a standard sac fitting, the od of a standard 750 GPH aerator pump line (5/8" I think) will fit the id of the sac - no fittings necessary. The threads will not match, but the sac fitting is pliable and with a single hose clamp you can have a leak free connection.

Realistically if you are needing to fill two side sacs use the Fly High Tsunami pump. It should only take about 5 minutes and save you some cash. <BR> <BR>The Attwood T800 Pumps will screw directly into the ports on the Fly High bags which works well as a drain pump since the water pressure will keep it primed. You can use the Attwood T1200 pumps to fill or drain but you will be reducing them to 3/4" with the Fly High W747. That will restrict flow a little but I still have a lot of customers that use them. <BR> <BR>If you do want to automate my opinion is to... <BR>To fill I would use a 1" thru-hull strainer with an attached ball valve. "T" that off and run two Attwood T1200 Tsunami pumps which will produce enough water pressure to reach the sacs with no problems. <BR>To drain I would screw an Attwood T800 Tsunami Pump into the bottom of each sac. Add a vent line (with one way valve) and some switches for an automated ballast system. <BR> <BR><a href="mailto:spencer@wakemakers.com">spencer@wakem akers.com</a> <BR> <BR>(Message edited by spencerwm on May 06, 2009)

Spencer, wanted to run this by you. What if I wanted to run 3 T1200 to fill my various bags. Could I increase the size of the strainer, maybe plum it to a bulkhead and attach 3 (or 4?) pumps to it? Or at that point should I just add another 1" strainer?

A 1.5" thru-hull and manifold works great for 3-4 pumps, both reversible and aerators.

Only other thing to consider, is if you want to remove the sacks easily to dry out underneath them, you might want a quick connect. Trying to unscrew a Tsunami 800 that is screwed directly to a bag and also attached to a through hull is not going to be easy, not to mention the wires. If your storage never gets wet, or if you can just lift up the bag adequately, then you would be fine.

Doug, <BR>Tige Mike is right. You would want to use the 1.5" thru-hull with a homemade manifold if you are going to run more than two Attwood T1200 pumps off of it. Or you could add a couple more 1" thru-hulls. It is personal preference. <BR> <BR>Talltigeguy, <BR>There is a trick when unscrewing the pumps directly from the sacs. Push in the blue or red release tab on the top of the pump, and twist the top to pop the cartridge out. Hold the tubing out of the way and unscrew out of the sac port a little easier. The tubing will still be twisted but it seems to work better. <BR> <BR>spencer@wakemakers.com <BR> <BR>(Message edited by spencerwm on May 08, 2009)

Wouldn't you also want some check valves on the fill lines so the bags don't empty out the same line that just filled them? The pumps/through hulls are below the bags so water would just drain right back out once you turned the pumps off...Also make sure to put a loop in the drain lines so the pressure of the water in the bags doesn't force the water out the drain line.

Joe, <BR> <BR>What I found to prevent the unwanted draining without the use of a check valve(s) is to route the fill hose up through the boat so at some point it loops higher then the sac when filled. Nothing wrong with using check valves for this purpose, as some boats may not allow for hose routing as noted, but I was able to eliminate that expense.

Tigemike, <BR>I did that with my surf sack install and never had a drainage issue, good idea. A check valve is another opportunity to leak, IMO and one more potential area of failure. If it can be eliminated, then do it. <BR> <BR>(Message edited by talltigeguy on May 08, 2009) <BR> <BR>(Message edited by talltigeguy on May 08, 2009)

Good point about leaks, Talltigeguy, any joint, connection, splice, etc, is a potential leak spot. Anything that can be done to eliminate one without any major detriment to the system, IMO, is a plus.

I like it.