How difficult is it to change the propeller? Keep in mind that I'm not a "handyman". Is it as simple as it looks - un-bolt the old one, pop-off from shaft and bolt-on the new prop? Do you need a prop puller to remove the old prop from the shaft? <BR>I want to buy a different prop for my boat, but wasn't sure how easy it was to do it myself.

It's faily easy if you can get the old one off. If it's stuck good luck! Bergeron Marine in Mesa, AZ used to make are a really nice c-clamp looking thing that works really well. I tried all the other prop pullers and none seem to work very well. Mine old prop was on so tight (siezed on the shaft) that I had to use the c-clamp remover and a hammer. When it did come off it flew about 15 feet. The guys helping me said that he has removed hundreds of props and had never seen one do that before.

I have a harmonic puller, it's dirt simple, cheap and very easy to use. You just screw this treaded disk in the end of the drive shaft, put a little pressure on the prop with your hand and bang the disk a few times with a hammer. The resonation of the shaft vibrates the prop right off. I got mine in a “Weekend saver” kit that I bought from Karl De Looff, a frequent WW member.

If you have close access to water, I read some where on WW that you could loosen the prop nut about 1 to 2 turns and hit reverse in the water. The back spin will just slide the prop down the shaft just enough to break it free. Then put the boat back on the trailer and remove the nut and prop by hand. Sounds like it might work if you don't have $100 prop puller.

When using a prop puller you should loosen the nut 3-4 turns loosen the prop with the puller. Serious saftey hazard when the prop goes flying. Not to mention potential damage to the prop.

Heat is the answer. Unless you have a splined shaft. <BR>I use a propane torch, and heat the prop, where the shaft goes through it. <BR>Propane torch is on eused to melt solder for plunbing, so it doesnt put a lot enough heat to damage. <BR>After about 2-3 minutes of heat,. it comesa right off. Dont forget its hot to the touch. <BR>

I like George's method the best. It works for me. Do not remove the nut. Just loosen the nut to allow the prop room to break free without flying off. Once the prop breaks loose remove the nut and prop.

I should mention that I had the nut on my prop shaft when I pulled the prop. It broke in half!

I don't recommend the method of loosening the nut and hitting reverse. As the prop comes off it will get to a point where the key doesn't have enough bite and it will slip, possibly damaging the key and or slot in the prop shaft or prop. You may also lose the key! <BR> <BR>I also do not recommend the heating torch method. If the prop shaft gets too hot it can damage the "cutlass bearing", the plastic/rubber bushing in the strut. <BR> <BR>The best thing to do is to invest in a decent prop puller. The one that looks like a really stout C-clamp is the best. Other types may work on a good prop, but if you ever have to remove a badly mangled prop you will appreciate the C-clamp style puller. <BR> <BR>

I don't think I'd take a torch to mine, the harmonic puller works so easily and I'd hate to risk heat damage to the glass.

Just a note to self on pulling props. Always leave the nut on the shaft, a couple of turns off the prop face. Most props are mounted on a tappered shaft, when you torque the nut, you stretch the tappered bore of the prop over the tappered shaft. This creates what is know as hoop stress, and it will store a tremendous amount of enery. That is probably why Jed split the nut on the shaft. <BR> <BR>1. Install the correct puller, lock the drive shaft to keep it from turning, apply about 20 to 30 foot pounds of torque to the puller. <BR> <BR>2. Give the front face of the prop a gentle tap with a SMALL hammer and a block of wood. If it does not give, try a litte bit more toruqe on the puller. You do not want to hammer away on this hub as it will cause permanent damage. <BR> <BR>3. When you re-install the new prop, torque the prop nut to a MAX. 30 FOOT POUNDS. Next time, it will come off easy. <BR> <BR>I hope this helps. If you are looking for a new prop, I carry both ACME and OJ, shipped right to your door. <BR>

Don't bother with the torch, do it in the daylight. <BR> <BR>Made me laugh

DO NOT Put the boat in the water with a loose nut and put the boat in reverse, you will damage your prop shaft, lose the key and have trouble geting your boat back on the trailer. <BR> <BR>DO NOT heat the shaft. There is no reason too and you will only end up damaging something. <BR> <BR>As was stated previously: <BR>Wedge a 2x4 to keep the prop from turning <BR>Loosen the nut one or two turns. <BR>Put on the prop puller (C-clamp). <BR>Tighten it until it is under pressure. <BR>Hit the prop with a rubber mallet, somewhere near the center (don't wreck it). <BR>Tighten, tap, tighten, tap. <BR>Once it pops remove the nut, washer, prop and pro key. <BR>Clean up the shaft with a little steel wool before replacing. <BR> <BR>Good luck <BR> <BR> <BR>