5-Light Light Bar?
 

Hey guys, need your opinion on my light bar install. Im pointing 3-lights backward and 2-lights forward. I used 14-gauge for the 3-fronts..can I use 16 gauge for the 2-fronts? And Im not using relays, Im hooking them up to a led switch and then to a fused power block?? Will the 16 gauge be ok?? No relays a big deal?? Jet

Lites
 

Not to hi-jack ur Q but how are you tying all 5 light wires together and then down into the tower - how are you running them

3-lights all wired together down one side of the tower to a rear-light switch, then the same for the other 2-lights hopefully down the same side of the tower to the led forward-light switch. Does that answer your ??'s

How many watts are the lights?
And what is the switches rated at?

I would imagine the lights will draw so much juice, they will smoke the switches if your not using relays.

Just do a temporary test outside of the tower. If the switches, wiring or connections get more than luke warm then you are going to have serious problems where considerable damage can occur before the fuses will disengage the power. A fuse can only protect against excessive current but cannot determine whether the current is being converted into heat or not. Those are not real high intensity lamps. I'm familiar with these as they are common on entry-level light bars and are used in price point light bars that we offer. However, DC lamps in general pull serious and continuous current as compared to audio type equipment. I would never take the risk of lighter gauge wiring, crimp connectors or switches without relays especially when we are only talking about a few extra dollars to do it the right way. Also, wiring five halogen lamps to the helm buss or breaker/fuse panel is not such a good idea. Light bars deserve a dedicated run to the battery. We supply the relays with 8-gauge service from the battery.

David
Earmark Marine

The lights are standard 55watt and the switches are rated at 30 amps.

30 amps on the switches, and Its own dedicated power block with 10 gauge wire coming from the batt.

Well watts divided by voltage equals amps so for the 3 lights thats 165 watts divided by say 14 volts so about 12 amps for the 3 lights through the switch and about 8 amps on the 2 lights through the switch. Use 14 guage wire through out and you should be fine. I run no relays on mine with six 55 watt lights with 3 pairs each on a seperate 20 amp switch.

Thanks sparky and david. that helps. :D

If you run MUCH heavier wire and relays you will get MUCH more light output.

The voltage drop you will get from the configuration you've described is pretty bad.

Your method would probably work but if you want light, you will need to give them as close to the full 14.4 volts as you can. I did mine with much, much bigger wire than what you are talking about. David's is good advice.

The voltage drop will be very little if any. You dont need bigger wire and relays. It would be a waste and will not change the light output. If this were true, auto manufacturers would not be usung 14 guage wire for all headlight and fog light configurations would they?

I ended up using 12 or 14 with no relays and ran them for about an hour last weekend and it was BRIGHT and great, no issues except it was TOO BRIGHT in the drivers seat forward..rear is great. Got them angled correctly and then tightened them down good. Any advise on the brightness in the drivers seat?? Bimini is not done yet so what can I do about that?? Thanks guys. Jet

Have to have the bimini up. Helps a ton with glare from the forward facing lights..

Updated DIY Light bar/Pic's
 

Updated pic's. The light bar worked great and was bright as hell. the forward facing 2-lights have to much down lighting and had to keep them turned off. I will have to paint the bottom of the lens's to keep that light going forward instead of down also, good thing I put them on 2-switches. I cant wait to get the bimini done too that will help with the brightness in the boat. great add-on and much needed for night riding and boat trailering at the ramp. get out there and build you won. Sorry no night time pic's. Jet

You could try making some eyelid type shields on the bottom like they use on movie set lighting if you get what I mean. That might help stop the light from coming down. I have noticed the same problem on my boat as the lights light the front of the boat causing too much glare. Big misconseption is that they help at night...which they don't. For driving it's better to let your eyes adjust to the darkness. You will see farther without them on. I only really use my lights once I get closer to shore or when putting the boat on the trailer. Otherwise while I am running I will flash them on and off a couple times if I think I see something that the light will catch.

We surf and wakeboard at night. I know, I know it's illegal. I have KC daylighters and I can almost see as well at night as I can during the day with this setup. I have them all on at the same time. I did this by using low watt LEDs facing back. They light up the night fine for the surfer or boarder. Good light forward is more important to me. We actually normally only surf during the night but every full moon we try and wakeboard.

Yes, I have thought of the eye lids, great idea still thinking through mine. We hit the full moons when we can, I love those nights, but yes, we only use the rear for spotting those landings.