Faux Teak Floor Install
 

I have been getting a few E-mails asking whats up with the Faux teak floor install. Sorry Not much to report. But I did Start the project. I took the boat all apart and started a "TO DO" list.
First Step Take the Boat Apart.
Second Step will be to take out all the carpet and make a clean surface
Third Step will be to make a New template

Is that an electric fan on the ECM heatsink? Did it come from the factory like that?

yes That is a Fan on the back of my ECM, Long story Longer, There was a time many years ago when my boat randomly died. It would just shut off and as soon as I opend the engine box, It would fire back up. I tryed everything. One of the master mechanics at WCCC said it might be the ECM box getting hot and shutting down ect, I ran a temp gauge on the ECM and Yea it was HOT. So that was my Fix! to bad that was not the problem. It was a SHUNT. that when hot would cause the motor to die. As soon as it would cool off it would make connection. That intermitten problem drove me crazy for YEARS. It would only do it once in a while on hot days and I couldn't get it to ever do if for me when I wanted to track it down. Its like as soon as I pulled my tools out the boat was Ok im done playing with you.

I thought you were selling and getting a new one? Should look great tho.

This is going to look awesome! Can't wait to see the progress!

Looking forward to seeing your progress. What material did you end up deciding to use? If I remember correctly you had a few different types.


Not to hijack your build thread but I went the easy way and just had Sea Dek make the pieces for my new 210. I like how it turned out.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7900788/Phot...ue/_2012/a.jpg

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7900788/Phot...ue/_2012/c.jpg

Hey Grant, what are you planning on doing with the carpet along the bottom of the seating? You are still planning on doing the tan color correct?

"what are you planning on doing with the carpet along the bottom of the seating? Bret Im scratching my head on that Subject. I have a bunch of places where the stock "Grey" carpet come in contact with the new Faux Teak. Places like the Gunnal Walls , The bottom of the Motor Box, The Passenger seat Base, The Base of the Rear Seat, And the 2 Side panels in the walk threw. I need to decide what to do with these area's. I have a good Idea for replacing the Carpet around the motor box. I have this cool carbon fiber looking vinyl that will wrap around the base of the motor box im going to see how it looks. I was thinking about Tan carpet for the other areas or Black Rhino Lining But I need to come up with some Ideas I would like it all to match and blend well. Don't know if Black will stand out or blend in? Mabey Ill have to try some carpet samples

Aaron your look looks great, What did the Sea Deck set you back?

I have no idea. I'd have to ask the dealer what the set cost. I ordered the boat with no carpet so the savings from that went into the Sea Dek. It was pretty close to an even exchange.

Grant- I was considering doing the same project when you brought it up a few months ago. I too am stumped on what would look best for where the carpet would meet the Faux Teak. I think Rhino Lining it would be a good option for smaller "accented" areas that you want to blend in. I think the black will blend in and look great if you don't over do it. The carbon fiber around the motor box would probably look pretty good too since that's a popular theme in your boat. :D

Shouldn't under the carpet just be red gel-coat? Why not just clean it up and polish it, I think it would look better than carpet or rhino-lining.

Grant, for that boat, you have to go all the way - - - carbon fiber with LED inlays.

i dont know about rhino liner, but they make some stuff called speed liner its just as tough as rhino liner and that stuff comes out shiney like paint and you can color match any color and change the texture up by how fare you hold the gun from whatever your shooting.

Any progress on this project G?

How are you going to level the floor? I see that as your biggest challenge, you'll figure out the rest and make it NICE!

Any progress on this G?

Brett: Yea I have made some progress. I did some testing and found out that the Faux teak is not all that it is cracked up to be. I found out that its hot as hell. I tested all 3 types of Faux Teak Pasti Deck, Nue Teak, Yatch Deck, They all were very hot in direct sun. And they don't clean as easy as I thought. So the Sea Deck that I thought would never intrest me now looks much better. Im doing a bunch of upgrade's and fix's on the boat that put this project behind.

Im planning on making a template for my floor and rear lockers to do something similar. I had originally thought the Fake Teak was a much better solution, but after hearing that I'm right back to thinking Seadek. Considering I'm in Texas, if its hot in CA it's gonna be scorching here. I'm thinking that if Seadek is used, eventually you will get some wear and tear and some places might need to be replaced, which is why I was thinking about making sections like the newer model SANs have, instead of one solid piece. My problem is how am I going to make that work? What do you think about stripping the carpet totally off the floor, Rhino Lining the floor then setting the precut pieces of Seadek in? So, in my case, I would have black Rhino Lining with grey Seadek on top, that way in the small gaps between the pieces of Seadek there would be a flooring that would match and allow you to remove any piece to replace it?

If you make the floor in sections it looks better IMO and like you mentioned You can replace sections. One of the Advantages of the Faux teak is the "Margins" or the way it lays out. Its supposed to look like sections Not one big piece. So it might work out for you in that way. I plan on doing it the same way. In Sections. If you make the High Traffic parts in sections you can peal them up and get a replacment piece if needed. You can do it like this but make the sections much closer than whats in the picture

http://www.seadek.com/blog/?page_id=1127#

Pic isn't showing up.

Any problems that you can see with Rhino Lining the floor? I had originally thought that Rhino Lining and Seadek would be adding too much height to the floor and I would have problems with the seats that raise and lower (observer and back 3 seats) but if I just Seadek the areas that show when the seats are all down I'm thinking it should be fine. As for the gaps between the pieces of Seadek I'm thinking as small (~1/2 to 3/4 inch?) to blend in as much as possible with the lines that are on the Seadek. Is that what you were trying to show with that pic?

black rhino lining on the floor in texas sounds hot.

Jeff, the way I'm visualizing this the Rhino Lining will basically be for two things. A surface that the Seadek (which will actually be what you're standing on) will stick to and to match and blend the small gaps between each piece of Seadek. So essentially, you'll never be standing on the Rhino Lining directly.

Brett what would be wrong with sticking the Sea Deck directly to the fiberglass floor with Zero gap between sea deck pieces

I was thinking with small gaps between the pieces it would break it up more instead of looking like cluttered pieces and I'm not real sure I want my seats sitting on the Seadek. I'm thinking I may only have to do 4 pieces total on the floor (in front of the rear seats, on top of the center ballast cover, under the bow filler cushion, in front of drivers seat) and I might do the 2 rear lockers.. This is what the floor looks like bare.

Someone asked above about cleaning gel under the floor. My first thought was, what? Because the look just like yours, just glass no gel. Uless you have snap in carpet.

Brett what if you figured out where your seats were sitting and then you re finished the floor in the small aeras where your seets touched bare floor I have the same thoughts as far as my observer seet go's

I'm honestly thinking about getting a couple quotes on spraying the raw fiberglass floor with white gel coat and going from there with my pieces of Seadek.