K, so its getting cold here in the NW. Haven't ridden in awhile, but we always seem to go out for brief set once a month or so into the winter. My question is, what should I do to my boat to make sure its winterized, but still somewhat ready to go on the water? First year with Vdrive and Heater, sacs, etc.. want to make sure its all good as we approach cold temps. <BR> <BR>Also, my boat is parked outside under carport, how do I keep moisture from building in compartments? I noticed a thin layer of what appears to be mold on the underside of my back compartment.

The heater makes it hard. <BR> <BR>Basically, If you are using it frequently, just drain the water out of the cooling system each time, and blow air through the heater hoses. Done.

Jeremy, in Bellingham, easiest thing to do is just get a heated storage unit. If that's not an option, here's another idea: <BR> <BR>Leave everything in the rear of the boat un-winterized. Buy two portable lamps, put a 40-60 watt bulb in each, fold-down the bulkheads between the engine and side storage compartments and hang one light on either side of the engine, so it doesn't touch carpet, engine, or anything else. Turn the light bulbs on when the temperature gets near freezing... It will raise the temp at least 10-20 degrees and keep you out of trouble. By having two light bulbs, you won't have to worry about what might happen if one were to burn out... <BR> <BR>Winterize only your heater core and install shut-off valves on both cooling lines so that water doesn't flow back through the heater core. Don't use your heater again until Spring. <BR> <BR>(Message edited by phenom_1819 on November 13, 2009)

Jeremy, if you are going to use your boat like that than you should think about getting some sort of quickdrain system. I know there is a drain system that is pretty fancy that will drain it all. the other option is to get petcocks for the 2 block drains, 2 manifold drains and transmission cooler drain. Then just pop off the raw water water pump hoses real quick. Cal's idea for the heater is good although you probably want to use it in the winter. If you have a compressor at your house you can also just pop off both lines and blow the water out. It would probably take 15 min. to do that and put the hoses back on to get ready and probably 15 min when you are done using the boat as well. Just make sure if you open the petcocks and no water comes out you need to pull the whole thing out and see if there is rust blocking them from draining.

I do the whole system when I'm laying it up for a while if I'm leaving town. There's that fire possibility with incandescent bulbs. I still do it in a pinch but it's an expensive mistake if the lights go out and you have a hard freeze. I always put everything back together so I can take it out, and I'll run a bulb or a heater for a short period. <BR> <BR>I'm all ears for any advice on a quick purge system, I've collected a few parts for my engine, might try something this winter. Anybody tried it?

Put a heater in the block? They are pretty cheap. My old Scout II has 1.

You should be able to get all of your fittings for a drainage system here: <a href="http://www.georgiawatersports.com/productcart/pc/viewCategories.asp?idCategory=1842" target="_blank">http://www.georgiawatersports.com/productcart/pc/viewCategories.asp?idCategory=1842</a> <BR> <BR>They also sell ski boat impellers for the best price on the net. Here is the link: <BR> <BR><a href="http://www.georgiawatersports.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=6&amp;idcategory=879" target="_blank">http://www.georgiawatersports.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=6&amp;idcategory=879</a>

^^^^ SPAM. <BR> <BR>And unfortunately I fell for it, just bought an impeller... didn't notice until I received my receipt with Nathan Collins' name on the email! (I should have checked his profile first). <BR> <BR>Nathan, you might know that blatant promotion without disclosure upfront is poo-poo'd on this site. And you might consider advertising here, then it'll be poo-poo'd much less.

Burn him at the stake.

Isn't the heater core up by the dash? Supposedly the weakest link the cooling/water system when it comes to freezes. Make sure its' empty if you're going the light-bulb route.

Your right, Nacho. I install car radiator flush Ts in the heater lines at their lowest point in the bilge. So all I need to do is remove the two caps from those flush Ts, and the heater drains into the bilge. <BR>Plus we put petcocks in the drains in the engine block. So draining everything means removing two caps, opening two petcocks, and disconnecting the exhaust hoses (that are screwed together). Takes a couple minutes on the ramp. And been doing it this way in the Seattle area since the early 90s.

Bill that sounds like the route to go. Sorry to be ignorant, but are the heater core lines easy to spot? I know my shower lines cuz I had to work on that this summer, but my heater hasn't had any issues. I just know the heater core is tucked up behind my sub panel...

Bill, good idea. Never thought of that. Jeremy, I don't remember what kind of boat you have... I had a hard time researching where to find the heater lines in my boat (Supra 22 with Indmar 340 CAT)... so if you have an Indmar, this may be useful. <BR> <BR>On my boat... The feed line is attached to the recirculating pump. From the port (passenger) side of the boat, look at the serpentine belt, and find the aluminum wheel in the middle of the serpentine, that is the recirculating pump. The hose on the port side is the feed line for the heater. <BR> <BR>For the drain line... go to the starboard side. Look at the attachments on the manifold towards the stern. There is a small little hook shape attachment off the manifold attached to a hose... that is the drain line for the heater. <BR> <BR>Also, in case this is useful for those winterizing with heaters, I was able to blow out the heater core without removing the drain line... the water flows out into the manifold, and out the unscrewed hose attachment.