In May I purchased a 2007 SAN TE where the PO had updated the stock stereo with upgraded tower speaker and a sub (enclosure with 2 - 12 inch subs, I believe). I started thinking about the system when I plugged in my Zen to the Clarion CMD's input and had serious volume issues because of the low output from the headphone jack compared to just playing a CD through the HU. My research (mainly here) led me to wanting to add an equalizer/line driver so my MP3 output was increased and also be able to fade the tower vs. interior speakers and sub control. I found this post in particular was helpful and along the lines of what I want to do, but had a few questsions: <BR> <BR><a href="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/403755.html" target="_blank">http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/403755.html</a> <BR> <BR>My system currently has the standard Perko dual battery system that comes with the boat. However, the PO added a second battery connected to the port battery. The amps for the tower and sub are run directly off this battery and the amp for the interior speakers is run from the boat's electrical system as it came from the factory. <BR> <BR>Questions: <BR> <BR>1. Does anyone know which battery in this boat is "1" or "2" on the Perko switch? <BR>2. Do I need to add a combiner or isolator between the port stock battery and the added battery for the stereo? <BR>3. Should I place all three amps on the extra battery and do a fuse distribution block similar to the diagram in the related post (currently there are several individial fuses running to the added to amps from the extra amp)? <BR>4. Any suggestions on good equalizer/line drivers? I want something that can be adjusted easily whether having the system at the dash or have one mounted by the amps with a remote. <BR> <BR>Thanks in advance.

Yeah, I realized after posting that I put it in the wrong place. Thanks,

Shoot I had a lenghty post made and couldn't hit submit haha. Basically I run the Audio Control Three.1 <a href="http://www.audiocontrol.com/t34/5250/In--Dash-Car-Audio-Processors.html" target="_blank">http://www.audiocontrol.com/t34/5250/In--Dash-Car-Audio-Processors.html</a> which will do everything you want line driver, sub control, tower/interior fade (front to rear). It's a little spendy but worth it in my opinion. Also you don't need an isolator/combiner unless your charging system can't keep up with charging both battery banks at the same time or you aren't diligent about using the Perko switch. I'm running a Hellroaring combiner/isolator that is fully automatic and basically dedicates a charge to the starting batteries then to the house batteries for the stereo system once the starting battery is fully charged. <a href="http://www.hellroaring.com/marine.php" target="_blank">http://www.hellroaring.com/marine.php</a> Hope this helps.

Also I'd run your power and ground from the battery to a distro block then to the amps it just makes things cleaner.

Ryan, <BR> <BR>Thanks for the info. I was actually looking at the Three.1.