hey wakefolks <BR>I'm up in the great northwest and starting to think about the winter. I just bought my boat this year and need to know what to do in order to winterize. thanks

Here is my list for my MC direct drive. Anyone have comments or suggestions? <BR> <BR>1) clean entire boat <BR>2) install fuel stabilizer <BR>3) fill fuel tank <BR>4) remove engine cover &amp; floor board <BR>5) warm up engine <BR>6) change engine oil/filter <BR>7) change transmission oil/filter <BR>8) run engine to check oil levels <BR>9) fog engine <BR>10) run antifreeze through engine <BR>11) check shaft coupling alignment , leave loose <BR>12) loosen drive belt <BR>13) clean flame arrestor <BR>14) lube steering <BR>15) lube shift &amp; throttle cables <BR>16) remove exhaust manifold plugs (2) <BR>17) remove engine drain plugs (2) <BR>18) remove hoses from raw water pump (2) <BR>19) remove 2-1/2" thermostat hose at pump (1) <BR>20) remove 1-1/4" hose off lower end of trans cooler (1) <BR>21) turn engine to remove water <BR>22) remove impeller <BR>23) remove battery <BR>24) clean/spray engine <BR>25) remove propeller <BR>26) duct tape exhaust flaps <BR>27) install engine cover &amp; floor board <BR>28) vent engine cover <BR>29) cover boat <BR>30) lube/check wheel bearings <BR>

question: <BR>Shouldn't steps 16-21 be before step 10??? I usually drain my engine of water then add the antifreeze. <BR> <BR>question 2: <BR>why do you duct tape the exhaust flaps? and remove the prop?

<a href="http://www.wakeworld.com/articles/2002/winterization1.asp" target="_blank">http://www.wakeworld.com/articles/2002/winterization1.asp</a>

Usually I don't duct tape my exhaust flaps shut but I will put a rolled up towel in each hole. This is to keep critters from crawling up in there and nesting if you store your boat outside. I don't store my boat outside so I don't need to do this anymore. Removing the prop isn't necessary unless you are worrying about someone stealing it.

Forrest: I run the engine with antifreeze before I drain it. My owners manual suggested removing the prop &amp; to coat the entire propeller shaft with corrosion resistant metal protectant. Then, in the spring, grease the shaft taper before putting the prop back on.

Do you really have a tranny filter?

How did that post ever get past the fact checker? No tranny filter.

I really wasn't trying to bust your balls, but I wasn't positive on the tranny filter. Thanks for the clarification.

May want to add draining the water from the fuel/water separator and changing the fuel filter to the list. <BR> <BR>Fogging the engine in the traditional manner (spraying fogging oil into the intake while it is running) is not recommended for injected engines. Remove each spark plug and spray some perservative oil in each cylinder then turn the engine over by hand a few times. Lets you change/check each of the plugs while you do it.

Good points. Why is fogging the engine in the traditional manner (spraying fogging oil into the intake while it is running) not recommended for injected engines? Does this apply to both throttle body and multi-port fuel injection?

Yup...applies to both. Fuel stabilizer is plenty to keep the fuel system in good shape. PCM and Indmar both recommend against fogging through the intake. Putting oil through the injectors can cause more problems than it prevents.

Oh yea...after you fill the engine with antifreeze, don't drain it. Drain it first, put all plugs back in and then put the raw water pump into a bucket of 50/50 antifreeze and start the motor. Leaving the antifreeze in the motor guards against corrosion and scale formation over the winter that can occur if the motor is drained. Then in the spring, start the motor on a hose and catch the water coming out of the exhaust until it runs clear to avoid polluting your local lake. Makes the spring start up real easy and you don't have to remember where all the plugs were put for the winter.

Here is my $0.02 regarding fogging and impeller/antifreeze. <BR> <BR>I do follow PCM's recommendation (page 54 of the manual you can download online) of fogging my FI engine (GT40). I am not sure why it would not be effective. It would help put a small coat of oil throughout the intake as well as the valves. I then take the plugs out and spray a little fogging oil in the cylinders. I drain all the water out and then remove the impeller. Reassembly the raw water pump (without impeller) and fill the block full of antifreeze solution. The antifreeze helps prevent rust during the lay up time. Then in the spring I drain and put in a new impeller.

Pat Frist - comprehensive list! <BR> <BR>Patrick Adams et all FYI - <BR> <BR>The 1.5x1 'PowerSlot' trans (ZF Hurth) in the newer MC DD's *DO* have a filter.

I've seen a copious outpouring of bs on this thread. 1 or 2 novel ideas: <BR> <BR>1)hmmmm...Take it to a dealer? <BR>2)RTFM (Read The ..... Manual) <BR> <BR>I'm no technician but isn't fogging oil to protect the cylinder walls, etc. against corrosion? <BR> <BR>And finally, I assure you that you would rather drive roofing nails into your skull than participate in that 30 item checklist from hell. Unless your time and happiness aren't worth much you're probably better off paying someone $200 for that amazingly comprehensive, yet possibly overreaching, list of to do's put forth at the top of this thread. Wow.

Hey Pat Frist - <BR> <BR>Now that I look at your list again, I'm thinking it may be straight out of the F....ing Manual. So I guess ya got one choice: Pay someone else.<img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/clipart/lol.gif" border=0>

Hey clueless- <BR> <BR>Hyper down.