I have a bent prop strut. No vibes so I think my shaft is fine. That being said, I am still thinking about replacing it. <BR> <BR> Is this something I can do myself? I have a lot of experience with cars and such but minimal with boats. I heard I would need a puller? <BR> <BR> Anybody have any insight on how to replace a shaft as well as possibly re-align the engine? <BR> <BR>PS--This is for a 1998 Tige 2200V <BR> <BR>Thanks <BR> <BR>Bakes

I could talk ya through a direct-drive but not so sure about v-drive. Maybe ccfan.com ? They seem to have more mechanical readers...

Do you want to replace the shaft or the strut? <BR> <BR>I'm confused <img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/clipart/crazy.gif" border=0> <BR> <BR>If the strut is bent but the shaft is fine why would you replace the shaft? The strut is simple- Pull the prop, test fit (without 5200/4200/sealant of choice), then make sure everything is going to be good (alignment won't be messed up) and seal 'er up. <BR> <BR>The alignment on a v-drive is probably WAY harder.

he's replacing the strut that holds the shaft. That's why the realign. <BR> <BR>On a DD, you can damage the tranny if you run it out of alignment for too long. I'd assume you could damage the vdrive too. Not sure what site to point u to....

Thanks for the replies. <BR> <BR> I just want to get everything back in alignment. Since it does not vibrate when I run it now I am assuming that the shaft is not bent and that the engine has shifted (or been shifted) to line up with the bent strut axis. <BR> <BR> Once I replace the strut, I think that the engine is going to be out of alignment with the new axle position that is dictated by the now unbent strut (unless of course the whole thing is under tension...but then again I would expect it to vibrate if that were the case) <BR> <BR> The reason to replace the shaft is that I would then know that it is not the shaft that is causing vibrations if any pop up. <BR> <BR>Thanks <BR> <BR>Bakes

That is what I would recommend replace the shaft and strut then realign it can be tricky to align a V drive everything moves in the different direction than you think it would when you move the engine.

Don't just start guessing at what needs replacing. Pull the propshaft out and get it checked for runout. No more than five thousandths of an inch anywhere along the shaft. Have the prop checked for balance as well at this time. While things are apart, straighten the strut and replace the bushings. Then re-install the pre-checked known good shaft and prop or the replacements as needed. Lastly check and adjust propshaft alignment. <BR> <BR>The strut doesen't have to be perfect. You have some room to play with. They move easier then you'd think with the right leverage. As long as you get the re-alignment right, all will be well. This is how most any honest shop would do the repair. This will serve as a good experience for you as well and you'll feel confident you didn't spend any money you didn't need to, which is always a good thing.

...or take it all to a prop shop and have them check it. they can straighten the strut pretty cheap. might as well replace the cutlass bearing while you've got the chance.

Of course you can do it that way but On my boat I always replace what is bent if you are going to have if straightened The strut should be straight not close. You should be able to turn this in on your insurance since you hit something

What's a cutlass bearing? <BR> <BR>What is the process for removing the prop shaft from the tranny? It is my understanding that there is a coupler and a shaft. I assume the coupler just bolts to the V-drive. Will I need a press or puller of some sort to remove the shaft? <BR> <BR> My main reason for doing this myself is that once I have done it once, I should be able to do it much quicker the second time if needed. The only thing I hate more than dropping XS money at the repair shop is waiting around for them to get around to it and hoping they 1) get the repair right and 2) don't feed me a line of bull. <BR> <BR>Anyways...thanks again <BR> <BR>Bakes

Yes the shaft bolts to the coupler at the tranny. It is a slip fit, no puller needed there but for the prop, you'll need one. Been working on my boats for ten years and never heard of a "cutlass bearing". Again, the strut doesen't have to be perfect. There is a good amount of tolerance in the whole system. That is why there is so much adjustment in the alignment sytem.

"cutlass bearing" are inside the strut they will were and cause there to be slop in strut and the shaft can wable. We will have to disagree on the strut being perfect, can you use it without being perfect sure heck he can just keep using his boat the way it is.

sorry, i meant to say take all of the parts to a prop shop. i'd rather not drop my boat off at a shop either. <BR> <BR>cutlass bearing is in the strut. hard rubber insert that wears down over the years. at 10 years old with the shaft out, might as well replace it. prop shop should mention that to you if/when you drop the strut off. <BR> <BR>also called strut bearing or bushing. i'll disagree too...why bother with any of this if you aren't going to do it right? <BR> <BR> <BR>edit...forgot the link... http://www.diybob.com/diyCutlessBearing.htm <BR> <BR>(Message edited by salty87 on May 07, 2009)

cutlass bearing removal advice <BR> <BR><a href="http://www.diybob.com/diyCutlessBearing.htm" target="_blank">http://www.diybob.com/diyCutlessBearing.htm</a>

oops, didn't read to the end and never imagined anybody would have linked that site ...

We've only had to replace cutlass bearings when customers would spin their props out of water - causing the cutlass bearing to melt. (if you saw this happen - it is very obvious) - you'll notice the shaft is "loose" in the strut and can wobble around in there. <BR> <BR>Also - sometimes pulling the shaft from a flange can be a challenge - it can seat in pretty good. <BR> <BR>Depending on the vdrive in yoru boat you may find it easier to create what I call an "in-frame" puller. Get longer bolts than the ones that hold the shaft flange to the vdrive flange. take the existing flange bolts off - pull the shaft - remove the set screw on the flange that keeps the shaft nut from spinning - take the shaft nut off. If you can not pull the flange off the shaft to pull out of the boat - place a spacer like a socket onto the end of the shaft and re-attach the shaft flange to the vdrive flange. tighten the bolts evenly until the shaft "pops" - then just pull it out. <BR>(thats one advantage of dropping a boat off at a good shop) <BR> <BR>good luck.

Yeah never heard it called that before. It's not really a bearing though from a technical standpoint. Best boat mechanic in this area is a good friend of mine and he straightens struts all the time whem they aren't that bad and that ones not bad. Struts move pretty easy. If boat drivetrains were built with such tight tolerences, why are they designed with so much adjustability for alignment?

Also, Bakes if you have a good amount of experience with cars and mechanical ability, you can easily do this. Why pay $75 to $100 an hour? As far as procedures, Google is your friend. You can find any info you need right there...

The "cutless" bearing is technically more of a bushing than a bearing. <BR> <BR>Your strut is likely bronze, brass, or an alloy which is a relatively soft material. I would try to straighten it myself, with nothing to lose. If it breaks, then get a new one. <BR>Vibration will be your telltale if something is out of whack. <BR> <BR>My Walter V-drive came with a manual which shows alignment procedures. <BR> <BR>If you're somewhat mechanical, tackle it yourself, and if you can't get it right, then take it in to a reputable shop. <BR> <BR> If you get it right, you saved $$ and have the satisfaction of doing it yourself. <img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/clipart/happy.gif" border=0>