Amp power wire question
 

Thanks to everyone who helped me in my other thread about 1 preout and 2 amps. I got the head unit installed! It worked perfectly! I'll probably go with an EQ later, but now I'm happy I have a deck with 3 preouts and all the ipod, hd radio, usb, etc.

But now I have another problem! The guy who installed did a terrible job. My sub will cut out when I turn it up (not even that loud) So I looked how the power wires were ran. The guy ran 1 8 guage power wire and 1 8 guage ground wire for both amps! So that's one 8 guage for 2 amps and the specs on the amp say they require 4 guage...I was so pissed when I realized this. I assume this is why the sub cuts out? I've done a bit of research and it looks like the best thing to do will be to run a 0 guage power wire to a distribution block and then 4 guage power to the amps.

I do have a few questions....if I run the power to a distribution block, where do the ground wires from the amp go? Do I need to run 2 seperate ground wires from the amp back to the battery or would I use an additional distribution block? And where can I buy this stuff?

I also have a Rockford fosgate capicitor...should I use this? The installer said I didn't need it....I'm not sure if I really don't need it or if he was BS'ing me.

I ran 1/0 power and ground to two distrbution blocks and then 4gauge to the amps from the blocks.

Thanks...that answered one of my questions.

Where could I get the 1/0 power/ground from locally? Car audio shop? And can I use my exsisting fuse holders that the 8 guage wire are going through or are they not compatible?

I get all my stuff from http://www.mikesliquidaudio.com/ I used circuit breakers instead of fuses.

I also use circuit breakers. You can buy the wire locally from any audio shop ( very $$$) or use welding cable.

another good source for online audio is www.woofersetc.com

I like Darvex.com.

4/0 is the only way to go ;) No, actually it depends on how long a run you are doing and the amps you'll be drawing. If its a shorthish run 4 guage will be fine to the distribution block and 4 out to the amps. Longer then go with 1/0 or if you intend to add to the amps down the road.

Nu, nice site with good pricing.

Yeah that site has been good to me, very cheap and fast shipping and I've recieved great customer service. They get back to you quickly when you e-mail.

Hate that 4/0 looked like snake in your rear locker :D.

If you want to do it right.....

Power" 1/0 from amp to 100 or 150 amp circuit breaker (as short of length as possible). From the circuit breaker run 1/0 to fused dist block (mount block as close to amps as possible and use fuses according to amp specs). From dist block, run 4 gauge to each (+) lead on amp.

Grouns: 1/0 to dist block (close to amps) 4 gauge to each amp.

You will spend some money doing this...but it is the right way to do it.

Darvex carries both Sound Quest and Stinger products. Sq is good, Stinger is the best.

You biggest cost could be in 1/0 wire depeding on how long of a run you have.

The circuit breaker will protect the long wire run and the boat from a battery malfunction. Problem arises...breaker trips and worst case scenario you are out a foot of 1/0. No circuit breaker...you are reaplcing lots of wire and opening yourself up to an electrical fire.

The fused dist block will allow you to islolate and protect the amps.

I'll be the first to admit, I know alot about this stuff. Feel free to pm me with questions or product advice.

Next time you are at the lake....throw that capacitor in the water.

You don't need it

Nu, yeah thats some thick shizz for sure...

I made a mistake and looked at the pricing for the Stinger 1/0 on that site. I though I got a good deal and I payed a buck more per foot.

I do a breaker close to the batteries then a distribution block but not fused.

Thanks for the replies guys. I ran all new wires. Now my sub amp does not cut out, but my (RF P400.4) 4 channel amp does!??!?! It was working great, but after about an hour of being on the water it would cut out if I turned the volume above 18 (volume goes to 35). Not sure if it's overheating or not, but I turned it off for awhile and then back on and it would still cut out.

Can you guys tell me if this is correct or if I should have done something differently?

I ran 1/0 guage with in line fuse close to battery, about 17ft to a distribution block by the amps, from the distribution block I ran 4 guage to each amp. For the ground I have 4 guage from the battery, no in line fuse, to a distribution block by the amps and then 4 guage to each amp.

Your ground wire needs to be 1/0 guage to the distrbution block as well. Your ground is just as or more important than the power wire, do not undersize the ground wire. Fix that and your problem should go away.

Yep, you need to upgrade the ground wire to 1/0. It should always match the power wire

you know I was thinking the ground should be the same size. The guy at the car audio shop said I would be fine with 4ga

Murphy, when I throw the capictor in the water should I worry about it electrocuting any of the swimmers?

Not sure. Why don't you try it and get back to us with the results

Ok...I will!

One last question...do I need a in line fuse for the ground wire?

I lied, another question...my distrobution block for the power wire is fused...does this matter?

No, you do not need any fuses in the ground wire parth.

I think it a positive that you distribution in your power wire is fused. This way, the fuse will blow and not the amps.

I would be a good idea to have a couple extra fuses on board as well as any tools needed to make change one out

I've done some research on the install bay 0 gauge amp kit I bought and found out the 0 gauge is not a true 0 gauge. So here's my question...should I buy 0 gauge cable for the long ground I need to run or should I get 2 gauge? I guess I could replace all the power and ground with true 0 gauge, but I'm trying to keep cost down and not even sure if true 0 gauge would fit the fuse holder and distribution blocks provided in the kit?

I really hope this isn't a battery issue...

Here's the kit I bought. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...lBay+AK01.html

So I got 50ft of true 0 gauge and ran new power and ground wires. I also installed 2 pairs of Exile SX65c (amazing speakers) and everything sounds and works great...no clipping or cutting out.

I'm going to use the extra 0 gauge I have left over to do the big 3.

SOme guys might argue, but I think one of the best online tutorials about this kind of stuff is all found at www.bcae1.com

BCAE means Basic Car Audio Electronics. I think they would have told you almost everything that has been stated here regarding fuses, wire size, etc.

Yeah, but that's a lot of reading on that website and I like to keep these guys on their toes.

Hahaha! I think you are right. You got great advice from some of the best guys here. Next time, once you learn to navigate the site, it gets pretty easy to find the section you are looking for to narrow it down. I have occasionally seen stupid advice on some of these threads, and you then don't know who to believe.

lol yeah, well Brett Yates, Earmark David, Murphy Smith, Nu bu, and others all seem to know audio, boat audio more specifically really well