OBD II, how to clear all codes with out a scanner!
 

I was wondering on my 2001 Ford F250 diesel if the check engine light come on and then I fixed the problem that was stated by trouble code, can I clear the check engine light (SES light in my truck) if I unplug the batteries for so many minutes?

Yes you can clear the code if you did in fact fix it. Just drive it and it will go out within a few warm ups. Disconnecting the battery will not do anything as it will stay in Mode $03. Mode $0A will hold it for even longer.

FWIW Autozone does free scanning and code clearing or least they used to before being sued.

So I did the work to fix the codes that origianlly poped up. Then cleared the codes. After the second cold start the SES (check engine light) came back on. I plug in a snap-on code reader, and there where no trouble codes present. I reset it again and it came back on? So how do I get the light to go off it there are no codes to even read? What am I missing, ugh!

Sounds like an incompatabilty issue with the snap-on scanner. You most likely have another problem if the light was off, then came back on. The snap-on scanner ismost likely not able to interrpet what code is present. If the light came on, there will be a code stored. Take it to a dealership , or someone that has what we call an IDS (factory diagnostic software). Sometimes also certain chips.or tuners can cause eroniuos dtc's also. Just a thought.

What you are missing is there are two sides to a computer and they do not talk to each other. When you checked the codes the first time which side did you get them on? The manufacturers side by ID'ing the VIN or by Mode $03? aka generic or global on a Snap-on Scanner. Fords are famous for having no codes on the Manufacturers side, but have a freeze frame in Mode $02 and a code in Mode $03. Unfortunately few people seem to know this unless they go to school. I am always blown away when teaching classes how many people are ignorant.

What was the original code for?

You know i kept hearing you can't clear codes without a scanner on my wife's Durango after the light cam on. It was simply a cracked evap hose which i fixed after looking the code up online. So i checked online again and finally found a tech on a forum that said "Yes, you can clear them by removing the negative batt cable and turning and holding the ignition in the start position for ten seconds". Sure as hell it did clear them and never it came back.

Bawshogg, do you know who builds the IDS? Answer Snap-on. http://ford-ids.com/ look at the bottom of the page. The Snap-on Scanner will connect and clear the codes on a Ford with no issues.

Razzman, you are correct on some cars, especially the older ones, but the late model cars you can not actually clear codes by disconnecting the battery as they have a keep alive memory and not Mode $0A period.

Yes douche, I own one and had to send it TO snap on to have it repaired. Also had a snap-on scanner in the shop and used several. Sometimes they don't fully comminucate. Hence the issue he is having. Depends on software level and revision # . Several aftermarket scan tools have this problem with Fords, even some GM products. Some times Generic OBD II will lack info on a diesel platform due to the fact that they fell under no emission standardsand were proprietary to Ford. To be completely correct, actually. Snap-on builds the VCM, not the Diagnostic software. Terradyne builds the software. DID YOU KNOW THAT?

Thanks for showing who you really are by calling me a douche. Whatever...

No problem buddy. Anytime. In the automotive field dont ever assume you know everthing. And to answer the OP question, you can clear the dtc's by disconnecting BOTH batteries on your diesel. Let it sit for a while , few minutes with a load, head lamps on to drain the pcm keep alive power. Sounds to me as you have another problem, or the original one is not completely fixed. Just needs to be properly diagnosed.

The original code was P0672 and 3 other codes that I don't remember of hand but after researching the codes were suggest the driveside bank of glow plugs were bad. The 7.3 litre diesel I have, it is a know issue of the under the valve cover harness's wearing out and causing a short. One harness is 90 bucks, one valve cover gasket is 90 bucks, and glow plugs are about 20 each. Anyway I replaced both side glow plugs (8) and (2) harness's and the (2) valve cover gaskets. I had my local (buddy) shop dude, Diesel machanic, do the work. 5 hours. Even with the original codes the truck showed now signs of any issues. And still does not. I have read that some readers do not read all codes like bawshogg is implying. I removed both battery cables last night and will hook them both up after work to see if the SES light goes off. But if that doesn't work, it sounds like I would need to take it to Ford where they have the scanner tool that will work for sure. I just hope I don't have any other problems. By the way my truck has the Banks Stinger Plus kit on it. Which has a plug on to the computer. I have not been running that plug on since the code light went on. Anyway thanks for all the thoughts, I will keep you posted.

Hey Dave... Just a thought from someone unfamiliar with domestic trucks:

I've gotten a few vehicles in without stored faults in the ME or DME. Make sure to check for trans faults, too. On almost all vehicles with an electronic transmission stored faults in the ETM will cause a Check Engine Lamp. Just something to be heads up about.

Otherwise, these guys are right on. Particularly with a diesel, but I've even had some gas cars that are late OBD2 vehicles that had manufacture specific faults stored, but didn't show up on the OBD2 generic readers.

If you still have glow plug related faults when you do check it out look at the controller(relay if not CA vehicle) real well, Those are prone to fail and we replace alot of them. The 672 is definetly a glow plug circuit dtc. Sometimes issues with the glow plugs damage the relay. Keep the banks module off of it untill you get it figured out. It makes the diagnosis that much for difficult . On the Ford diesels of that vintage the trans and engine processor is all one unit and there is no other module on the vehicle that will turn the" service engine soon "light on. Only issues will have with a problem in the glow plug system is hard starting, but if it is warm where you are at it may not be that much of an issue. Glad to help. Let us know what you find.

Do you mean this unit. I think it could be the problem too, but to know for sure it take a lot a work to test it out unless you had another one to swap with. They are only 125 bucks I think. Maybe I just order it if the battery thing doesnt work. I don't understand the $03 and $02 code thing yet.

Yup that's the controller. Your truck is a CA truck. That's honestly the way we check em. just plug in a known good one. Much faster and easier if you have one on hand. They can be tested though with a volt meter.

X2 on the glow plug controller.

Known problem for the 7.3L.

To be honest, you still did good by replacing the harness and gasket as they inevitably will need replacing.

Got home and hooked up the batteries. Started the truck and no more SES light. I turned it off after warm up. Started it agian, and the SES light went back on. I guess I will go to ford and buy the glow plug controller since it is a know problem. Thanks for the help so far.

Made in Spain.....

That's your problem right there. Your truck doesn't know how to speak Spanish.

Ha, ha, ha.

Honestly.... it's cool seeing people get some good quality anwers from this forum. There really isn't much you can't ask here. Nice work guys.

so that glow plug controller box is 277 bucks from Ford ouch. I can't find it anywhere on line for less. The ford Part number is 3Z-12B533-AA

Its funny the controller is sold at Kragen for $193 and Auto Zone for $233. They are pictures identical less the Made in Spain part. Funny.

If the ones at the other auto parts stores are motorcraft branded go that route. Don't buy an off brand component like that. Factory stuff is gonna be way superior. I think at this point though unless you are willing to shotgun parts take it and have it correctly diagnosed. Might cost ya 90 -100 bucks for an hours labor, but at least you will know exactly what your up against and won't waist money on an eletrical component you can't return. You are not even sure what dtc's are turning the light on, heck might even just have something unplugged that you can't see. It happens.

Bawshogg, You are absolutley right, I need to do that. It's just money is tight, I need all the $'s going towards wakeboarding. But I think you got it right. I should just take it into the Ford dealer.

The problem I have is that the Diesel writer they have told me that after I got my cruise control recall done, I need new ball joints, sterring end link, and new intercooler hoses. He wanted to charge $3300. My ball joints are in great shape, super tight, my End link looks old but is super responsive, and the inter cooler hoses, could use a good degreasing. I am a huge advicate of going to the dealer but when I see first hand a writer doing that, it really bugs me.

I hear ya. It happens sometimes. If you were local I would check it for ya no charge, at least put ya in the right direction. Try a different dealer maybe. Tell them all you want is the S.E.S. light diagnosed. Just know that in alot of dealerships those guys are pressured to upsell things, on lifted superduty's ball joints are really commonly failed, steering linkages also. I can't say if they tried to bend ya over or not, but that is one heck of an estimate. That job here runs around 1500 or so out the door. SOOOOO.... If you can take it somewhere and at least see what your up against I will gladly give ya any help or advise I can.

so I took the truck over to my buddy's shop and with his brand new snap-on scanner we went through ever detail of the scanner machine that we could. We ran every test. Very cool stuff, like seeing if the cylinders are ballanced and if all the injectors are firing. Anyway all we saw were the old codes stored from the original glow plug issue, we cleared them. So now there is nothing we can see via the scanner. I have driven the truck on 3 small trips (less then 20 miles) and no more SES light. I just hope it stays off so I don't have to spend anymore time or money on the stupid SES light. Thanks for all your help it was usefull. The wake community is just so solid. Gotta love it!

Learn to use Amazon.com for many of your auto part purchases. They sell OEM stuff at often great pricing.
http://www.amazon.com/Ford-YC3Z-12B5...0828055&sr=8-1

Did you write down what the other codes where this time?

If you have to scan it again make sure your friend starts on the "globabl" side of his scan tool and just look at the the part that says "codes", then go into the VIN id section. Which scanner is he using?

Cool, Peter, I wish I knew what scanner he has model number wise. But it's red and a snap-on. Anyway the codes were P0670 P0672 P0674 P0676 or something like that. Thanks for the help. By the way the amazon price it more than Kragen, and from whay I can tell it's the same part. I don't think anyone else is copying that glow plug controller.

If it is not in a red box that says motorcraft it is a copy. Lots of aftermarket electronics out there. Just beware.

Ok I ran the truck this weekend and the SES light went back on. I guess now, I just take it to Ford, Sofa king frustrating! ugh! I want to fix it myself. The worst part of the whole thing, is there is no signs of the truck do anything wrong.

Did you mention you had a programmer on that rig? If so an overboost ( I think over 19psi) will set off the SES.

If you want some real in depth help on this check out the forums at http://www.thedieselstop.com


btw, what's this common problem with the wire harness/valve cover thingy. First time I've heard of it.

The are called UVC harnesses(under valve cover). they have a tendency to melt or burn when you get a high resistance connection at the connector, or from a damaged glow plug. They are actually a connector, wiring hraness, and valve cover gasket all built into one. Usually when the UVC gets damaged you also have to replace the outer harness connector also becuase it damages both contact surfaces of the connector.

Its going to be the controller. But not a bad idea to let your dealer look at the problem.

If you dont live where it gets really cold then you dont really need the glow plugs to start. You really needed them with the old IDI system. Now that they are DI they start much easier in warmer climates.

Since they are only used on startup you wont notice any driveability issues.

If you can stand to ignore the light for a while until you save up some money, you wont be hurting anything.

Chaun, I have the banks power pack plus. Which it upgraded turbo and exhaust basically. plus a auto mind, which plugs into the computer. I have run the truck in the past with out the computer chip from banks with no SES light to come on. I can run up to 23 psi with out the chip. With the chip I get up to 27psi. So I don't think it is a boost issue.

so far the weak links for me in my 7.3 have been this harness glow plug thing, 1000 bucks, and the tranny at 95k miles, that was 4500 bucks but I have a suncoast tranny now. its good for 700 hp and 1200 lb/ft torgue. I do wonder what the next weak link is. By the way now you can get the suncoast tranny for less. Also, my truck can cherp second with the right conditions.

Jim, I live in SJ Ca. So I rarely see below freezing temp unless i go up to Tahoe. I am going over to my buddys shop on Wednesday to change out the controller to see if that works, if it does then I will go buy one at Ford.

Oh, I wasn't saying you have a problem with boost, but the SES light will come on if you hit a certain pressure because Ford didn't intend for their turbo to go over a certain point. I don't know much about that Banks kit or if it corrects that type of thing.

BTW, I correct myself...it looks like 24psi is the limit. My 7.3 isn't chipped (but it does have a 4inch exhaust, guages, and intake mods) I only hit about 19 to 20 psi.
If you aren't seeing any problems maybe you just need one of these?

http://www.itpdiesel.com/store.php/products/Overboost

btw, the overboost annihilator will still let you boost over 24psi, its just that the computer won't see it and complain.

Pulling codes is really the only way to figure out exactly what is setting that thing off though. A lot of folks on thedieselstop might lend you a hand with code scanning if you need it.

I replace the GPCM and all is fixed!

Nice work. Glad you got it fixed.