I'm a rookie. 2000 centurion dd. does it take normal car oil. 10w 30? I know a lame question. Thanks in advance.

Most boats nowdays call for 15W40 "Marine" oil, which is basically the same thing labeled diesel oil (15W40). You can track down "Marine" 15W40 and pay more, or take your pick of many Diesel 15W40's found in any Wal Mart (make sure meets your engine's requirements as far as ratings.) <BR> <BR>I'm not sure about yr. 2000, you might have to try to find an owner's manual for your engine for that year.

If it's a Merc, go to the Merc web site. I think they have an faq on oil. <BR> <BR>

10W40. No biggie. Use Amsoil if you're really anal.

I work for Chevron and after talking to the tech guys I use the Chevron Delo in my boat. Yes I am biased but they would have told me if something else was better.

I'm a rookie also and have a 2000 Mastercraft DD and would like to change the oil myself. Its a 5.7 litre 350 Indmar V8. How do you drain the oil from the oil pan? Is there a drain plug somewhere on the bottom of the engine and how do you go about getting it from the engine into a disposable bin/bucket? Thanks for the help.

Most boats have a "quick change" hose attached to the bottom of the oil pan, and usually attached somewhere during normal usage. It will normally have a plug in the end of it. <BR> <BR>Find this hose, and feed it out through the drain hole in the hull. Warm up engine with a "fake a lake", then drain your oil through the hose. No spills. <BR> <BR>Yes, you can also suck it out the dipstick tube with an oil vacuum, available at any boat shop, Overtons, etc. The quick-change hose though works great if your boat has it. <BR> <BR>My old '92 MC did, so surely yours does. <BR> <BR>When changing the filter, take a couple plastic bags from the grocery store, and wrap over it. Reach through the bags to take the filter off, letting it and any oil that comes out go in the bag.

the best method i've found is using a vacuum extractor (Tempo Oil Boy) like Boomer mentioned, with an adapter that connects to the hose on the bottom of the oil pan. it's much faster than gravity drianing thru the bilge hole, and zero mess. don't just siphon it out the dipstick hole - that won't get all the old oil out. <BR> <BR>something else that may also help is punching a hole with a nail in the bottom of the old filter and let it drain for a few min before unscrewing it. obviously you need some way to catch the oil that comes out, but this will pevent oil from running all down the sides while you're trying to unscrew it.

Great info Boomer and Trace....thanks for chipping in. I appreciate the help. There was no way I was going to pay some dealership to change my oil and I knew it could be done at home, so thanks for the instructions.

Do not use a dino 10W40. A straight 40 weight would be a much better choice if you want to run a dino oil. If you want to read why click on this <a href="http://p083.ezboard.com/ffjr1300ownersassociationfrm12.showMessage?topicID =536.topic" target="_blank">http://p083.ezboard.com/ffjr1300ownersassociationfrm12.showMessage?topicID =536.topic</a> <BR> <BR>If you want the best use Mobil 1's Truck and SUV fully synthetic 5W40 ($19.95/5quart jug at Wally World). It meets or exceeds all OEM specifications and will last longer under extreem heat and preassure.

This has been hashed out a number of times. Do a search and you'll see what I'm talking about. Don't waste your money on synthetic. Do what your manual says and you'll be fine.

I run straight 40W, have for years. But then again.. my manual says to and the engine builder said to run it in my last boat.

I just changed to 15-50W mobil1. My oil pressure is running a bit high. Is it because I put too much in, or because teh 50W? <BR> <BR>Thanks <BR> <BR>

What does the oil dip stick say when you are in the water? Check all fluid levels in the water to get a true reading. Does your manual call for 15-50?

Engine oil does two things for a motor, 1. lubricate the internals and 2. remove heat. I will not use synthetic in my boat. Synthetics work well in turbocharged and small engines that have thermal challenges due to the superior thermal characteristics. However they do not do quite as well as a lubricant. Since our boats have an almost unlimited cooling capacity and run at lower temperatures then automobile engines I feel the synthetic is not the best choice. <BR> <BR>Nooner, that's a Ford GT-40 in that Nautique right? It's tolerances are designed for straight 40, don't forget to let it warm up! <BR> <BR>The Chevy based motors are designed to run multigrade oils, like 15w-40. If you cannot find the 15w-40 for all climates then make the adjustment for you climate, lower temperatures should run 10-30, higher temperatures should run 20-40. I also have a vague recollection of 10-40 not being as good as the other weights but I cannot remember why. <BR> <BR>For what it's worth, just my opinion.

Go to the mobil 1 web site, 15-50 is an acceptable replacement for 15-40. The 50 number just means it acts like a 50 weight oil when hot not cold, when cold it acts like a 15 weight oil. Did he realy say synthetics arent as good as petroleum based oils? Definately check your oil while floating though. Tell me why mobil can back up extended oil change intervals now with their new oils, technology and synthetics.

According to my manual for my 1995 Centurion with a Mercruiser/Chevy 350 I am to run straight 40W. It actually says to avoid multi-viscosity oils.

Marine Oil is the same as Diesel Oil? Are you sure about that? You have used it?

Mikeski <BR>yes you are correct that was for the GT40 in the nautique. The engine builder I had put me together a motor for my 85 said to run straight 40 also in his motor..

Does anyone have a Tige V-Drive? My boat has the "quick change" tube but I cannot find the drain plug. Can anyone help? Thanx!