Need some info quick on the carb for our 351 motor. Mine isnt working right now and need to either rebuild or replace and wanted some suggestions. Also what should I expect to spend?! Anyone with any experience here your help is GREATLY appreciated!!!!

The Carb on your boat is probably a Holley 0-80319-1. I have one in stock but I don't really have the greatest price on Holley. My price is $625.00. That is a brand new marine Holley. If you take your carb to a rebuilder you are probably going to spend 300-400 on it.

k. !!!!!!thats a l ot!!!!!! thanks for your help though Brett I might have to contact you. <IMG SRC="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/clipart/happy.gif" ALT=":-)" BORDER=0>

Jesse, if it comes down to it I can probably give you a little better price but just google Holley and 0-80319-1 and you find some for under $500. Still expensive but a little better. I know it kind of sucks to have to spend $500-600 on an older cheaper boat. The crazy thing is that a rebuild kit is probably $20. It is all the labor though in rebuilding it. I am not sure if there is a bunch of special tools but I can probably get you the rebuild kit if you want to try and do it yourself. If you just follow some good online instructions and use the instructions with the kit as well as taking your time you might be able to do it. It may be worth it if it only cost you the 20-30 for the kit and some carb cleaner.

I know a guy around here that rebuilt the carb on the boat me and some friends went in on last year and he only charged us $70 but at the same time the boat was still not perfect and would die once in awhile going into gear. The place I got the boat from has offered to put a brand new one on for $425 plus tax and maybe get the guy who had it on consignment there to pitch in a little so Im just gonna have to go with that. Thanks for your help though Brett I really appreciate it! and coincidentally I think the carb might be a Holley 41160?!?!? could be wrong though.

4160 is a very general number for a 600cfm Holley 4bbl carb. The marine specific one listed above is a marine 4160. Rebuilt Holleys often perform like crap and leak. I have rebuilt dozens of them, about 75% of the time they don't work properly because the original problems were caused by warped surfaces and worn out bushings that aren't part of a typical rebuild. IMHO you will be much happier if you throw the old one over the nearest fence and put on a new one.

right on psyclone!!! thats what I will do. THANKS! <IMG SRC="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/clipart/happy.gif" ALT=":-)" BORDER=0>

Why not go with an Edelbrock? simple design, cheap, and they are better on fuel. <BR> <BR>Al

Brett &amp; Jesse, no special tools needed other than a lot of patience. I'd say rebuild it first, then toss in the trash if its not working right. I've rebuilt two and both performed to my expectations when finished. They like to leak, but new gaskets should fix that, IMO. <BR> <BR>If you're replacing, I'd second the edelbrock. what Al said... +And they're ready to go out of the box...

New gaskets won't fix a warped float bowl or metering block/plate. Typically, the float bowls are warped and leaking from Billy Bob overtightening them because Holleys have a severe design flaw that causes them to be leak-prone. Since there is a bead on the gasket mating surface of the float bowl, you can't machine it flat again. You can replace the float bowls, machine the mating surfaces of the carb body and drill out and replace the leaky worn out throttle shaft bushings if you have a machine shop. Or find a fence and chuck it over. <BR> <BR>The Carter AFB (edelbrock) does not have the same leaking problem because of it's design. Ditto on the other comments about Edelbrock carbs. It isn't really any more bolt-on than a Holley, they both will need adjustment once installed on the boat. I just googled the edelbrock, the marine version was 335$. That's a pantload cheaper than a holley! <BR> <BR>(Message edited by cyclonecj on May 05, 2009)

Can I get the part number or a link to this edelbrock carb? may be worth looking into. Id appreciate it.

1410 marine appears to be the correct carb. Not sure if thats what psyclone found. <BR> <BR>Psyclone, yea I wouldn't rebuild that junk either. I've cranked the piss out of mine to stop a leak, so not suprised there. Suprised the edelbrock is so much cheaper than a Holley.

Here's what I found: <BR> <BR><a href="http://www.shop.speedunlimited.com/Induction-Fuel-System/Carburetors/Edelbrock-1409-600-CFM-p4081574.html" target="_blank">http://www.shop.speedunlimited.com/Induction-Fuel-System/Carburetors/Edelbrock-1409-600-CFM-p4081574.html</a>

i have a used 750 cfm edelbrock its in good shape 200

<a href="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&amp;item=200337699355&amp;s spagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&amp;viewitem=" target="_blank">http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&amp;item=200337699355&amp;s spagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&amp;viewitem=</a> <BR> <BR>can anyone confirm for me that this is the correct holley carb?!?!

I got my Holley rebuilt for $250 by a local guy. Just a price comparison

750 is too big for a stock small block

If you are skilled enough to diagnose the carb as your problem, then you are skilled enough to rebuilt one. Lots of things can cause whatever symptoms you are experiencing and they are not all related to the carb. <BR> <BR>If someone only has a 25% success rate at rebuilding a carb, then he needs to learn how one works so he can diagnose one correctly and therefor recognise when one can be rebuilt or replaced. <BR> <BR>Jesse, <BR> <BR>Find someone that can properly diagnose the problem and repair it. A new or reman carb is no better then one that is properly diagnosed and rebuilt.

That carb is not marine grade.

I got the diagnosis from the mechanic at the dealer where I got the boat. So im trusting his word. Where can I get a marine grade carb then and whats the difference between marine grade and regular?!?!

I've rebuilt both holley and edelbrock carbs and have had great success with how both of them turned out. Make sure when you take it apart to put it right back together so you dont forget where anything goes and go slow even take pictures if you would like. <BR> <BR>Jesse the biggest feature of a marine carb is a saftey feature called the J tube. If the bowl begins to flood the gas essentialy pours itself back into the carb instead of overflowing out the top. This actually happend to me on my old malibu skier. A peice of teflon went threw the gas line and stuck a float open. <BR> <BR>The no hassel route is definitley to go with a new unit. Rebuilt carbs typical are problematic as psycolone touched on.

Rebuild it yourself, I did the one on my 1984 SN2001, it ran better than the day it was new. The rebuilt carb and electronic ignition made that boat run better than any other boat I have owned. <BR> <BR>The kit you need is available here for $26: <a href="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Holley-Carburetor-parts-4bbl-Marine-carb-kit-NEW-703-47_W0QQitemZ260405705425QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_ Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item3ca163bad1&am p;_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&amp;_trkparms=72%3A1205%7C 65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318" target="_blank">http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Holley-Carburetor-parts-4bbl-Marine-carb-kit-NEW-703-47_W0QQitemZ260405705425QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_ Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item3ca163bad1&am p;_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&amp;_trkparms=72%3A1205%7C 65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318</a> <BR> <BR>Clean things well and take your time, it's easy. <BR> <BR>Here is the rebuild manual: <a href="http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Technical/199R10013.pdf" target="_blank">http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Technical/199R10013.pdf</a>

This is what you need. discount inboard marine has it for $500. I rebuilt my carb on one of my boats and I had never done anything like that before. The parts were $40. Before I payed someone to rebuild it for $300-400, I would bolt a new one on for $500 and be done but for $40 maybe you should try your hand at rebuilding it first. <BR> <BR><a href="http://skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RA052003" target="_blank">http://skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RA052003</a> <BR> <BR>There is a difference between marine and regular car carbs. Regular carbs will blow your boat up

You can do it. Its not hard, take picks and put things in the order you took them off in.

Tige Mike. You are an insufferable know-it-all. If you knew anything about Holleys, you'd know that what I said is the truth. BUT you don't. You can't help but inject your opinion into every thread, and you are always right. Rebuilding a core is only as good as the core, dumbass.

Psyclone, <BR> <BR>You are incorrect, I sir, am a Smartass, not a dumbass. I do know a little about Holleys, but I certainly do not have the level of expertise that you have, in my 18 years as a professional technician, I've only rebuilt a couple hundred carbs as opposed to your couple dozen. <BR> <BR>I did not in any way disagree with what you posted originally. Bowls and metering block can warp, causing unrepairable leaks. Throttle shaft bushings do wear out, causing a lean idle condition. A simple turn of the idle mixture screw(s) will take care of this. My point was that the OP needed to have the symptom properly diagnosed (he has since stated that he has). If it was determined to be a carb related issue, then it should also be determined whether the carb can be rebuilt or not. This may require disassembly of the carb in order to put a straight-edge across the metering blocks and bowls. <BR> <BR>I'm the dumbass, but yet if you were a heart surgeon, then 75% of your patients died on the table because you diagnosed their condition incorrectly! You injected your "humble opinion" in this thread as well, why cant I? Sorry if that offends you, I tend to call it as I see it. <BR> <BR>Sorry your thread got jacked Jesse. Good luck!

Hey dumbass, a turn of the idle screw will not fix a leaking throttle shaft bushing. But, you know that, knowing everything.

^^^ You are correct, the bushing is still warn <img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/clipart/uhoh.gif" border=0> <img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/clipart/rofl.gif" border=0> But is does compensate for the lean idle and returns the mixture to the proper air/fuel ratio. <img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/clipart/talker.gif" border=0> <BR> <BR>Hay, since it looks like this relationship is going somewhere, can I pick out a pet name for you to? <img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/clipart/crazy.gif" border=0>

one additional tip once you get the carb running is to get or borrow a vacume gauge. It has been some time but If i remember right you want around 12lbs. I'm sure if you talk to skidim they can get you the correct lbs.

For those of you that don't know this, a leaking throttle shaft bushing causes a vacuum leak around the throttle plate. A vacuum leak causes bad idle quality, bad economy, bad throttle response, less power, yada yada yada. It is basically a fatal problem with a carburetor unless you own a machine shop like brainiac does. <BR> <BR>If you are having erratic idle problems, running too rich because some "mechanic" richened your idle too much and you are fouling plugs, having hard starts, other runnability problems, spray some WD40 around the throttle shaft while running, if the idle changes for a second or two, you have a bad throttle shaft bushing. It's probably not the only problem with that carb. <BR> <BR>SO, back to the topic. Chuck that POS over a fence and buy a new carb and go have fun for the summer!

Actually, 15 to 20 is more reasonable with a mild cam and no leaks. I usually see around 18 on a stock 351W. I have three of them;)

i knew someone would have a more accurate vacume reading. Its been to long and i hope moving forward unless its on my hotrod fuel injection only

That skidim link is the carb you need. /seriously, buy a trick kit and a can of carb cleaner. Theres not much to it. <BR> <BR>psyclone, 351W's: you done any major mods to any of them?

Not anything involving more displacement, though that's what I would do if I were to build another.

My 2 cents is buy the new one from skidim and install it yourself. If you don't want any headache. If you not mechanicly inclined have the shop do it. I have have one rebuilt by a buddy who is a professional for free and the kit was like $80 shipped from SKIDIM. However rebuilt carburators need to be rebuilt every couple of years from what I've been told by alot of different mechanics. My specific case was that that the bowls were pitted causing a vaccum leak. The only solution = new carburator. It's worth the extra money to not have to worry about it. Hence the new carburator was the second try.

my 88 had 300 hp and a prop[542] change is money better spent. buy a new one and you will never have to mess with it again. its a 20+ year old carb. if you rebuild and its not right you wasted a bunch of time money and energy messing with it. i was gonna buy a new one but the old one never faultered. the choke was ziptied open the whole 7 years i owned it thou.

get the edelbrock and keep $100 in your pocket. you prob need a new fuel line, no big deal.

Stop being a jerk Psy

Brand New carb is on. Went with the stock Holley cause mechanic was comfortable with it! Says the boats runnin smooth as can be now. Thanks for all the input guys. I am gonna rebuild the old one just for fun and to have a spare so that should be interesting. Boat is 20 years old so it couldnt hurt to put a new one on right! <IMG SRC="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/clipart/happy.gif" ALT=":-)" BORDER=0> THANKS AGAIN TO ALL!!!!