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-   -   amp works until (http://www.wakeworld.com/forum/showthread.php?t=781442)

wake26 07-09-2010 11:37 AM

amp works until
 
I got caught in a bad rain storm this past weekend and one of my amps got wet and quit on me. so I replaced it with a jl audio M6450. It works great until I bridged the sub on channel 5&6 now at higher volumes the amp cuts out but if I unabridge the sub and just run it on one channel the amp it works fine. I'm only running 6awg cables to this amp would this cause the amp to go into safe mode? The only thing different that I did with this amp from the last one is bridge the sub

philwsailz 07-09-2010 11:46 AM

Jarod-
What was the old amp?
Do you have a 2-ohm sub?

If you have a 2-ohm sub , running ch5 and ch6 in bridge mode results in each amp channel, (5 & 6) "seeing" 1 ohm each. That is too low.

Tell us what the woofer is and what your old amp is and we can make some sense of it, and some recommendations.

Phil
Kicker

nsolis220 07-09-2010 12:48 PM

Hey phil i have a similar question

i have a 700.5 kicker 4chann + sub

i have 4 tower speakers and a sub going to it. the towers are wired in parallel that the factory installed that way. so i can send 75 watts per 1 channel for the 2 speakers or bridge it. when i bridge it it cuts out on warmer days. i also have been running the perko on ALL if i run it one just 1 would that factor?

I suppose this is because of the speakers being wired now being a 2 ohm set up

is there a solution without buying a new amp or un wiring the towers the way they have it.

philwsailz 07-09-2010 1:14 PM

Soli-

If you have two speakers paralleled \per side, you are at 2-ohms per side, usually less. When use an amp in bridge mode with that parallel load, you show each amp channel 1-ohm, usually less. That is quite close to a dead short...

If you intend to keep that amp on the tower speakers, you can do two things:
1. Wire the speakers in series to an 8-ohm load and put that load on half of the amp in bridge mode. Same thing for the other side.
2. Run an extra set of wires up to the tower so each speaker has its own amp channel.

Both options will "show" each amp channnel 4-ohms, and both will get roughly 75 watts to each speaker. The second option is better, as you get more copper in the system with an extra run of speaker wire.

Phil
Kicker

wake26 07-09-2010 1:42 PM

Phil the old amp was a boston aqustics GT50 five channel amp. The sub is a boston aqustics 10" I would have to look to see if it is a 2 ohm sub. I don't know what model sub I have it came in the boat when i bought it

philwsailz 07-09-2010 2:03 PM

Jarod-

That is probably wha tis going on... Your old amp had a mono sub section that was stable into 2-ohms producing about 350 watts. If you are lucky, the woofer is a dual voice coil, and the voice coils are tied in parallel. If so, you can take 1 coil to CH5 and the other coil to CH6 and it will likely work fine. See if you can figure out the woofer model and/or impedance and if it is single coil or dual coil, but in the meantime, consider running just off of channel 5 or 6 and not both... I'd hate for you to toast that amp due to low impedance load.

Let us know, we can help ya!

Phil
Kicker

wake26 07-09-2010 2:24 PM

I believe it is the G2 10"sub looks like it comes in 4 ohm or duel 4 ohms voice coil.

05mobiuslsv 07-09-2010 2:28 PM

Either way it will work, you just might have to rewire the voice coils like Phil talked about above. If it's the dual voice coil sub you'll have to run leads from each voice coil to ch5 and ch6 on that JL amp.

philwsailz 07-09-2010 2:51 PM

yup!

Have a good weekend everybody!

Phil
Kicker

nsolis220 07-09-2010 3:19 PM

Thanks Phil!

Its so awesome that someone cares enough to help!


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