Whats wrong with this photo?????? <BR> <BR> <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/212223.jpg" alt="">

Answer: There is no system in his boat. <BR> <BR>We decided to fix this. This is my latest project, The Bling Bling has had to find a new home for a month or 2, This is what sits in the in stall bay called my garage. Here are some photo's of whats going on as of now, not much to show for now but, in a few weeks things will get intresting, <BR> <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/212229.jpg" alt=""> <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/212230.jpg" alt=""> <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/212231.jpg" alt=""> <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/212232.jpg" alt="">

here is a link to the Photo gallery of J's boat <BR><a href="http://svtsupercharged.com/gallery/album20" target="_blank">http://svtsupercharged.com/gallery/album20</a>

Well Grant, as always, you've got some serious skills! I'm looking forward to the finished product.

Here is a list of some of the equipment this boat is gonna have, The system is very close to what I have in my boat. <BR> <BR>160 Amp HO alternator <BR>5 Blue Top Optima Battery's 1 staring 4 stereo <BR>200 amp switching relay <BR>2 JL 12 W7's <BR>2 Orion XTR 2400's <BR>1 PPI 4125 <BR>6 JL XR-650 hull speakers <BR>Clarion XMD-3 <BR>I-pod and RCA Jumpers <BR>Stearn Remote <BR>Line Driver <BR>The tower speaker configuration is still up in the air. <BR>Ths sub box's will be Plexy and Formica and Neon. <BR> <BR>this sytems is going to have some very unique features, I to am looing forward to its compleation

Do you have the boat finished...I would like to see how it turned out.

No its not finished yet. It should be done in a few week. you can see updates on the website as it goes

grant, <BR> <BR>sounds like it is going to be nice.. how did you wire in 4+1 batteries ? <BR> <BR>thanks, <BR> <BR>mike

Mike are you asking about placment? I dont have the battery's yet I should have them this week, When I have all 5 I will line them up where we think they will fit, (under the back seet) and Ill post some photo's. Im going to build a coffin that all the batterys sit in

grant, <BR> <BR>thanks for the comeback..i am inquiring about the wiring diagram /design for 5 batteries. <BR> <BR>thanks !!!

Mike, I dont understand, How could a guy like yourself ask this type of question? LOL I know you know about Audio. I would bet you know more than me. But you dont know how to hook up 2 12v battery's. Are you pulling my chain? <BR> <BR>just in case your not, <BR> <BR>1 battery will be the starting battery, It will be located in the stock location. <BR>4 batterys will be under the back seet. All positive(+)cables will connect to(+)terminals. <BR>All Negiateve(-)cables will connect to negiateve(-)terminals dasy chained to each other just like hooking up speakers in a dasy chain, <BR>Between the 4 stereo batterys and the One starting battery I will use a heavy duty 200 amp Solonoid, this will switch the batterys, removing the starting battery from the system once the key is turned off. <BR> <BR>Example once the key is turned on or the boat is running all 5 batterys will be in play, Once the key is turned off the soloniod will remove the starting battery from the bank and the system will pull from 4 batterys, That way you run your system low and still always start up. This is how my system is wired. <BR> <BR>I will have a 160 amp Alternator with a 170 amp breaker with a 2 or 4 Gauge wire running directley to the 200 amp soloniod from the back of the alternator. <BR> <BR>Here is a photo of Harold's battery holder in the front of his San and the 2nd is of the rear batterys, His boat has 9 blue tops.<img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/clipart/happy.gif" border=0> <BR> <BR> <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/212613.jpg" alt=""> <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/212614.jpg" alt=""> <BR> <BR>Now send me some more photos of you home set up. That thing is bad A$$

9 blue tops damn. I want to ride behind that boat just for the wake.<img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/clipart/biggrin.gif" border=0>

thanks for the comeback.. <BR> <BR>i know how to hook up 2 batteries and with a perko ( thats what came with my boat, but that is it - never ran more than 1 battery before- remember i'm a car/home audio hack <img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/clipart/proud.gif" border=0> and am new at the boat audio thing (much bigger and more challenging) <BR> <BR>mind if i ask what are the details on the soloniod on the back of the altenator ? is it needed if i add 1 more optima battery to the system ? any suggestions ? <BR> <BR>thanks for the help. <BR> <BR>

Grant, have you ever had problems with the one battery disconnect were when you turn the key on to start the boat that the other batteries(4 daisy chained) are so drawn down that they drain the starting battery too fast for it to start the engine?

Mike The solonoid does the same thng as a Perko Switch, Its switches battery banks, Example <BR> <BR>When the key is on its like have in your Perko switched to ALL, when the key is off its like having the Perko switch turned to 1 or 2 and 1. <BR>The solonoid does this switching automaticly you dont need a preko switch when your using a soloniod, Its like one or the other. Most boaters are famililar with perko siwitches so thats what 99% of everyones uses. I use the solonoid because it never forgets to switch, the batterys. IMO there is way to many things to remember to do when your on the water, the more things that you can add to take the load off of you the better. The only thing between the alternator and the solonoid sholud be the breaker. <BR> <BR>When you want to add another battery to your 211 just add it to either the solonoid or just attach it to the battery bank thats not your starting battery, IMO throw that perko switch away and get a solonoid <BR>any one with classe cam 350 mono blocks would do this

Jason I have never had that problem, Because, we never let the batterys get that low, As soon as they get to around 11.5 you better be turning your boat on, not for fear of starting back up but just because its not good for your system to be running low on power, When your amps arent getting the recomended power they can run hot and distort the output signal. Just like if some one was to start chokeing you wouldnt be very happy, <img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/clipart/lol.gif" border=0>

Thanks Grant, I figured you wouldn't have any problems, I was just curious, kind of thinking of the car jump starting theory. One newer bling idea for you is to go with Amlumapro subs, they can print whatever logo on the dust cap for you. I am going to get some for my MC when my JL goes this summer.

thanks grant !!LOL<img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/clipart/lol.gif" border=0>

Here is the start of the battery box <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/213027.jpg" alt=""> <BR>Here are the finished fiberglass speaker cans that sit in the Motor box <BR> <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/213028.jpg" alt="">

Battery Box <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/213931.jpg" alt=""> <BR>Crossover box <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/213932.jpg" alt="">

<BR> <BR>Yo Grant - hey my 05 VLX will be in the end of April need to make reservations for stereo install. <BR>Mike

Mike save your money $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

Those red plates on the speaker binding posts look awful, they should really be black, ha ha. <BR> <BR>Just Kidding, everything is coming together nicely. <BR> <BR>No more bat turns for this direct drive MC! <BR> <BR>Big crossover box will probably look very cool but space in a direct drive is usually at a premium, I might have stacked them or disected them and mounted them at the speakers to save space? The routed/recessed lip gives clue of future plexi and neon effects? <BR> <BR>FYI, the electronics junkyard aka Mike Quinn's in Oakland has good LEDs for $1 each including resistors. I picked up some nice blue ones that may end up in the new ride at some point in the future. I have been playing around with highlighting edges of clear plex with very limited success. <BR>Mikeski

His 209 is pretty big inside for a DD. The cross over box fits on the underside of the gunnel. So it will take up no usable space. Yes theres gonna be some blue neon or led to light up the inside of the x-over box and yes it will have a plexyglass cover. As well as the battery box.

Grant, I see that you are putting the Batteries on their side. I know back in the day when I did High end car audio Optima tols us that they were fine on thier side but we had quite a few of them leek out the side and top. HAve you run into this or have you asked Optima if they still have this problem. If not then I will feel safe putting mine on their side. The 209 is comming out sweet. You always do nice work. I wish I still had the time to do more things to my boat.

I havent heard of them leaking, I see alot of people running them on the side, So if this was a common thing I would think I would have hear of it. Hear is the latest <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/214245.jpg" alt="">

Man you really get into it!! <BR>I'm a chicken when it comes to ripping things apart that are new or look perfectly good.lol <BR>You do imaculate work and now I see why everybody is like ask Grant he can help you.hahaha <BR>How much would you charge for something like that that you are doing..not including the equipment! <BR>I know it can't be cheap and definetly wouldn't expect it to be especially if this is not what you do and it's more like a hobby!Awsome work and pics keeping us updated.It's appreciated! <BR> <BR>Big Ed out

Ed. Yes this is a hobby for me and Jason is a friend, but its still lots of work and yes its not cheep. I like working with people that dont mind spending a few buck's it makes doing all this work fun when people arent trying to save a penny they just want it correct and clean as hell. Ill keep the photos comming. Im planning on doing some pretty cool stuff with the sub box's so stay tuned.

You got me interested.Just hurry up already.J\K LOL

Clay (big-ness) Thanks for helping me last night. <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/214913.jpg" alt=""> <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/214914.jpg" alt=""> <BR> <BR>(Message edited by whitechocolate on March 01, 2005)

Grant - looks like you've sealed the battery coffin. How are you going to charge them? (ideally your HO alt) the running into the same problem on my boat. are you never planning to hook up external charger?

The battery box will not be sealed. It will hinge open from the front, So it will swing forward. Like in the 1st photo above and then close like in the 2nd photo. It will all be rhino coated grey and have Grey vinyle cover over the top so it looks like it part of the boat. It will have 5 plexy windows with blue Led's lighting the batterys <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/214949.jpg" alt=""> <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/214950.jpg" alt="">

wow...it is looking great.

Grant- On a multi amp system, where/how do you ground the amps?

I will run a O AWG right from the engine mount and run it to the Neg post of the first battery, and then link all the batterys together using 0 AWG, Then run another 0 AWG wire up to the stock battery location along with a switching solonoid and from there all fused distrubution will start. It will tie back in to the stock grounding post of the stock battery making a grounding loop. All grounds will start at the engine mount and a distrubution block will be in the middle where amps can ground the same is true for power.

ground to the batteries, the only place on a fiberglass boat

Hey Grant- <BR> <BR>I have beeen looking into wiring up multiple batteries and such, and came across some good info on wiring up multiple batteries in parallel and such. <BR> <BR>Scroll down to where it says "Doing it like the Big Boys" <BR><a href="http://www.wagonmaker.com/newbatt.html" target="_blank">http://www.wagonmaker.com/newbatt.html</a> <BR> <BR>excerpt- This means that the batteries closer to the system connection will fail sooner and the bank will overall function less efficiently because of internal imbalances. By using a buss bar all series strings in the bank are connected individually to the main buss bar and the inverter cable is also connected to the main buss bar. Each battery in the bank receives the same charge current and discharges the same amount of current without having to pass that current through other batteries in the bank. It also allows for any number of series strings to be included in the bank, which means you can use lots of smaller batteries to get large system capacity rather than a few larger batteries. <BR> <BR>Basically becasue you are drawing 5 batteries through one line in parallel, it seems that the first battery in the line will end up taking most of the drain. But the last battery takes the least. Thats why they use buss bars to route everything to. This way they all link off of the same point. <BR> <BR>Just thought it was worth some info to you. Blue tops are not cheap, especially if you have to replace them. <BR> <BR>

Luke: where do you come up with this stuff. LOL I guess what they are talking about is some what correct when you have battery's all over the place with lots of wire between the 2, Like in some of there photo's. It looks like they are powering a house not a system. I dont see how a bus bar is any diffrent then how I will have these all hooked up. But I guess if you asked some Techno Wizards here you could have a thread 100 post's long telling me diffrent. <BR> <BR>(Message edited by whitechocolate on March 01, 2005)

G: I am a master of the random- <BR> <BR>Theres are the same as your, except for the single battery on each connection and not three. The main point that they are getting at is that what happens is that the lead battery ends up getting most of the drain while the last battery still holds decent power. OR- You are not draining all the batteries evenly. I see the point that they are making with it. Not sure if it effects boat systems like you have setup, but I do see the idea behind it. <BR> <BR>Isn't electricity like water? If you drain 1 volt from your connection, it would suck it out of the first battery. If it was connected like the buss bar, it would drain about .2 volts from each battery. (assuming 5 batteries) <BR> <BR>BUT, I could be totally wrong. <BR>(feel free to star a new thread if you want to discuss this, I don't want to fill up this post with my stuff)

When its done turn it up so we can hear it! <BR> Looks real nice, quality sh#t. I can tell you enjoy your work. <BR>

nO PROB CHOCOLATE!!!! WE'LL GET TOGETHER THIS WEEKEND AND BANG OUT SOME SUB BOXES. I WANT TO HEAR IT ALREADY. jUDY HAD LAKE SAN MATEO, LETS MAKE A CHOCOLATE LAKE!!!!!!!!

G- <BR> <BR>Cut to the chase and lets get some touch panels in these boats. I got some ideas. Touch panels with a harddrive, store video and audio. <BR> <BR>No dvd's to carry, no ipods to connect. <BR> <BR>Run a damn pc <IMG SRC="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/clipart/happy.gif" ALT=":-)" BORDER=0> <BR> <BR>=HAWK <BR> <BR>Idea like this >> <BR><a href="http://www.mini-itx.com/projects/bmwpc/" target="_blank">http://www.mini-itx.com/projects/bmwpc/</a> <BR> <BR>over and out.

Kenwood already makes a hard-drive system you could mount in a boat, just like the car. Problem with them is they are much more cost prohibitve than a simple ipod and some cabling. While money in these systems is clearly not a main issue the difference is a few ($500 maybe) and I am sure that is money better spent elsewhere. Touchscreens on the otherhand might be pretty cool! <BR> <BR>Eric

Cory: You got your Sea Do when you gonna throw a system in that thing? I can drop so much weight in equipment in that thing it might throw a ok wake LOL. (but serious) how would that thing hold up to vibration. Jason is all ready trying to put a choke hold on the ever expanding stereo budget its a battle of Good vs Evil and you know where I stand <img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/clipart/wink.gif" border=0>, so IMO the hardrive and LCD's will never fly. Jason is trying to fund his stereo project and pay for a wedding in Sept so to say he is stressin about money is a understatment. In the end he is gonna be so happy. If you want to work on some one try Harold, He is next in the Install booth, thats somthing he could use.

Funny yall should mention wanting lcds in yall boat...I have been working on some 10" and 15" outdoor sunlight readable displays to hook up on the tower. Do you guys really think that there is a market for these things? It would definately push the envelope as far stereo/multimedia installs go.

Brandon: Intresting concept. LCD's in a boat. Tell us more about your idea.

Grant, <BR>Do you have Cartronics number by chance? <BR> <BR>thanks

AUTOLECTRICS 408 559 3540 1360 Wite Oaks Rd Campbell Ca 95008

The company that I have worked for since highschool deals with electronic outdoor displays. You probably have seen them in just about every fast food drive-through where there is a 15" LCD screen that shows your order and pricing, etc. I have taken a couple of those "high-brighted" (1500-1800+ nits...normal LCDs are only about 250-500nits, not readable in direct sunlight) screens and have come up with some "water-tight" enclosures that I plan on using for some outdoor tv's. The main problem with these LCD's and being sunlight readable is the heat management. That is where my expertise lies. The module is more or less an all aluminum box that has a bunch of heatsinks on the outside, an LCD, and an inverter. From there you have a small box (about footprint of a cd-case that houses the LCD controller that would then accept any sort of signal you throw at it (ie S-video, VGA, etc). You can also replace the LCD controller with a miniture SBC (single board computer). Of course this whole system would be completely sealed from the elements including the interconnects for the single cable running from the box to the LCD module. By using the existing parts from our assembly (LCD, inverter, controller) I should be able to come up with a pretty cost effective solution for someone to one-up anyones multi-media install. Let me know if yall have any more questions or comments. <BR> <BR>Brandon <BR> <BR>(Message edited by bmh2208 on March 02, 2005)

grant quit toying w/brandon he is a nubie here and doesent realize the king of bling [whitechocolate] alread has hmmmmm maybee 3 in the bling bling . <BR>harold has 2 on the lady killer "g's" design and install of course. <BR>harold we finaly found a name for your boat. <BR>its ok brandon fill us in on the new tech we will all listen.

Yeah they might already have the lcd's installed, but I can guarantee you that they wash out if there is even a hint of sun beating down on them. You can see a high-brighted display in full DIRECT sunlight. See for you self, take one of the million candlepower lights and point it at the lcd and tell me what you see. As for noob...I might be a newbie poster but I have been reading for a couple of years. I've seen the aforementioned lcds installed in the visors and whatnot, and I must say they look very good... OFF, but it will never look like a 2000+ nit 10" or 15" hanging from a tower lit up showing the last session. <BR> <BR>As far as how they achieve such high brightness: normal lcds only have 2 maybe 4 CCFL (cold-cathode flourescent) tubes whereas a modified panel can have anywhere from 20-30 tubes. Making TV's out of these panels have more or less been a "research and development" cause for the company I work for. Atleast that is how I like to justify "borrowing" the screens from work. I will try to post some pics of a couple of temp setups for some roadtrips we have taken. Last summer I setup a 20.1" in the front of the Suburban. It was pretty funny to see the looks on peoples faces when I had such a huge screen up there by the dash. They sure beat the pants off of a laptop watching DVD's in a car, as anyone who has ever tried that during the day end up putting a towel or blanket over the windows to see. <BR> <BR>Cheers, <BR>Brandon

brandon iv seen the lcd's similar to the ones u r talking about in the sailing industry, but the ones im talking about reflect the sunlight back and use it to brighten the screen.im sure there r much better products out now compaired to 2 years back, thats y i asked u to keep up with the good info, because we all need to keep learning. <BR>ps nothing wrong with being a nubie we all r at some point <BR>thanks teddy

I know what this boat is missing. Grant Call me so we can fix this problem......... <BR> <BR>I have the plex rings pre-fabbed and ready to ship <BR> <BR>8178810979

Brandon I wasnt toying with ya, I wanted to hear your idea's. You sound like you know your stuff. I would like to work with you and try out some of your screen's. We usually never view the screens in the day and never in direct sunlight. The bimini is usually up and the screens have a sort of sun visor. However there is a market for this type of thing, I just dont know how much. I get the screens for around $200, So depending on how much you can get them for would I could see getting a few. E-mail me <a href="mailto:grantwest@gmail.com">grantwest@gmail. com</a>

Teddy, <BR> <BR>The screens you are referring to are called "transflective" screens where they appear to be brighter when more light is projected at them. There are dozens of different approaches to getting a sunlight readable display, the one we choose is more or less a brute force method by pumpping up the backlight output. your right in that there are already displays like this, however, if you have ever priced one...they are in the $2000 range for a full blown setup. Way too expensive for my taste. By knowing what all goes into making this work I know that I can manufacture something for less than half the price of current products already out there. <BR> <BR>Grant..would you like me to start a new thread...I hate threadjackers and don't want to ***** your stereo install thread? I am still in the prototyping stage of the design but would be glad to have people interesting in testing this technology out as the my only real experience has been in the fast-food/merchandising industry. <BR>

Brandon go ahead and start another thread, Because there lots of people here that have exp with this subject. Im sure they would like to chime in

Ok got lots done today thanks to my Homeboy's. Clay showed up with a truck load of saw's and routers and we turned my driveway into a wood shop. Thanks for you help Clay and Jude. <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/215601.jpg" alt=""> <BR>We had the Battery box Rhino Coated <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/215602.jpg" alt=""> <BR> <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/215603.jpg" alt="">

<BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/215607.jpg" alt=""> <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/215608.jpg" alt="">

YEEEEAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!! <BR>

yo grant that was all clay!!! i can't take any credit....looks good

Grant, you do nice work. <BR> <BR>Has anyone ever tried using Herculiner, that home-applied bedliner product as a sealer for MDF or exterior grade plywood, the way Grant had the battery box Rhino-lined in this project? <BR>I am working on the design for a new seat base for our Sanger DLX that is going to double as a sub box for three downfiring subs. <BR>The nearest commercial bedliner spray shop is about 30 miles away, and I was considering the Herculiner product as an alternative. <BR>Any thoughts? <BR> <BR>AD

Army Dad Jason at Greenhorn Campground @Rollins Lake Has a mobile spray on bedliner buisness call the camp ground # they can put you in touch with him. Give me a shout out if you need more info.

I am to lazy to read this entire thread, but what do you need all of those batteries for?

Yea, why all the batteries? You could have upgraded to an x-2.

lots of amp power = lots of current draw. Thus the need for more batteries

I run two large amps that push 2 12's and eight speakers off of one battery. I do need to add a second, but five seems a little overboard.

5 Batterys for the stereo and 1 for the boat 6 total, IMO everyone adds weight to the boat and what good does it do you? at least this weight can be use for more than just making your wake bigger. If you have a pumping stereo pushing some heavy bass then your going to chew threw power Like a big motor chew's threw gas. I dont like to run the boat to charge your system,it put's hrs on your motor and sucks gas and throw's out stinky fume's, Most boats come with 2 Batterys stock, and its getting very common to run 2 batterys for your system alone, So depending on what your used to seeing 5 blue tops is no big deal. 2 golf cart batterys = 5 bluetop's

Grant, <BR> <BR>I've read several threads of people talkign abotu the golf cart battery idea? do you know anyone personally who runs this setup and it does what everyone is talking about.ie. more actual amp hours, simple charging, no major issues, ect..I'll be happy w/ a simple yes/no answer. Don't want to hijack the thread. <BR> <BR>(Message edited by acurtis_ttu on March 07, 2005)

Hurry up and finish so I can copy <img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/clipart/proud.gif" border=0>. I'm worried about that darn Heater Craft unit failing. Seams like ever 100 hours the coil goes bad in my boat. Are you going to weather proof the driver side box? <BR> <BR>What are the dimensions on the driver side box and did you have to extend any of the lines to fit around the box (steering cable – bilge line – electrical wires)? <BR>

Adam. Yes I know some people runing Golf Cart Batterys' go to USbattery.com. They hve lots to choose from. <BR> <BR>Jeff: I had the heater checked out and re-soder'd so hopefully that wont be a problem. And yes I had both the drivers and pasengers box Rhino Lined. Im not shue what the dimensions are and unless your running a W-7 they will do you no good. But I can me give you dimensions if you need. The Stearing cable moves out of the way as well as most of the electrical.

Army Dad- I just coated 2 sub boxs with Bondo brand liner. Worked great. First I built the sub boxes to specs using 3/4" MDF, then router and sanded smooth. Make sure and do all box finishing before coating. Only used about half a gallon to finish 2- 1.25cu.ft. boxes. It does take awhile to dry 48hrs. <BR> <BR>(Message edited by sydwayz on March 07, 2005)

It's been a couple of days now, We need an update, and more pics.

Ok My Bad here are a few of the sub boxes with the Rhino Coating before they are to get the plexy glass and Neon <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/216512.jpg" alt=""> <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/216513.jpg" alt=""> <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/216514.jpg" alt="">

Sydwayz, <BR> <BR>Thanks, I'll check that out too. <BR> <BR>Grant, one more question if you don't mind. <BR>Either my eyes are failing me, or you managed to cut the vertical portion of the back of that battery coffin in a curve that matches the seat backing. I would like to be able to achieve that kind of fit on my back seat rebuild, which is going to contain three downfiring 8 inch subs. <BR>Am I right, if so, how did you do it? <BR>Thanks... <BR> <BR>AD

You can see in an earlier picture that he cut out a bunch of the same curved pieces and stacked them on top of each other. He must be the master with the jig saw and extremely patient.

Yes Ian Is correct. There is "8" 3/4 inch peices that make up each side. <BR> <BR>Then the sides were attached to the back with glue, screw's and a bisket joiner. <BR>you can see the process here. <a href="http://svtsupercharged.com/gallery/album20" target="_blank">http://svtsupercharged.com/gallery/album20</a> <BR> <BR>If I were to do it again I would router them. Just make a template and have at it. They would come out more uniform. I woud have saved quite abit of time. I had to sand them quite a bit to get them even. <BR> <BR>I used the same process to make the sub tube that holds the 12 W-7 in my boat,<a href="http://svtsupercharged.com/gallery/stereo/abf" target="_blank">http://svtsupercharged.com/gallery/stereo/abf</a>

Just finished the crossover box. It will hold all 6 crossovers and have a plexyglass window and some blue neon lighting. <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/216778.jpg" alt="">

Grant, you are an amazing fabricator - you should make a pitch for a "king of bling" reality show -- got a relative who was a famous outlaw?

Thanks. Theres lots of good fabricators here on W/W I just happen to have a cammera and post photo's of most everything I do. Im all most done making eveything I need to start installing. I have had his boat for like 2 months. I need to get this thing pounding soon

What I noticed in the last month you are pretty modest and I appreciate that! <BR>You work is lookin awsome. <BR>