Box options for a WS XS-12, for someone who couldn't build a birdhouse.
LOL Yeah, I suck at wood work. How I was able to frame out my shop and drywall it is a miracle in itself.
I've got a XS-12 with a Syn-1 running it. I want to get the most out of this sub, otherwise I'm going to have to get a W7 or Kicker L7, as friends have them, and they are decimating me on sound. So, knowing I can't build for squat, and I know WS has specific requirements for their subs. Is there any place I can buy a ported box ready to go? I'm running a sealed box per WS specs. It looks awful, but amazingly it's airtight. I know I won't be able to do that correctly with a ported box. |
Have someone in your immediate geo area build you a water resistant enclosure, bass-reflex if possible, and tailored specifically to the XS-12 parameters. Do not purchase a universal automotive enclosure. It will not last and once the integrity of the box is compromised this places undue stress on the woofer. And, it won't be an alignment for your particular woofer so it will not sound good.
David Earmark Marine |
I'm sure a local car audio shop or friend could help you out. Do any of your friends have a table saw? If so, that's the guy that you want to talk to. Are you on Facebook? If so, post it up on FB and you might be amazed at how many of your friends could help you out. The XS-12 hits pretty hard in a vented enclosure, I would be happy with it!
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Yeah, I can try some of my buds, but most of us are steel fabricators. I have a table saw.
Plus I know there are some unique designs to get the effect correct. For example the other thread about the XXX v2. WS provided a very nice detailed layout piece by piece of what he needed for his enclosure. If they had that for this box, I'd probably give it a try. But just saying some basic dimensions, I'm sure I'll fubar it. I just didn't know if it would be easier to just by a ported enclosure with 1.7 cu/ft (WS calls for 1.67cu/ft). |
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Per the Wetsounds manual: http://www.wetsounds.com/media/produ...ser_Manual.pdf
17" x 16" x 14" box = 1.64 cu ft and using 3/4" plywood: (2) 17" x 14" (front and back) (2) 17" x 14 1/2" (top and bottom) (2) 12.5" x 14 1/2" (sides) (Someone please double check my math) |
Order one from earmark. Problem solved.
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I didn't know if a slotted vent would be better than a standard port tube. |
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I always thought having a sub encloser that is a rectangle or square was bad. I thought somehow if the front mounting board and back board of the box were parallel the sound waves would bounce of the back board and cancel out something. That must be wrong though considering that diagram from wetsounds shows a rectangular box.
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We can build you one Eric, all you haz to do is ask :D
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I fixed that for you. :D:D:D |
Those in the know, take a look at this cheaper box.
I'm planning on Upgrading to an L7 or XXX next year so this box and sub will go into my CJ7, so I'm not really concerned about the longevity of the box. I honestly just don't have time to try and hack another one together with all the other projects I have. Thoughts? It's a bit bigger than the 1.64 cu/ft the WS calls for. The box is 1.83 cu/ft It's tuned to 34hz so I think it could get me the sound I'm looking for. http://www.crutchfield.com/p_777BB12...egory-info-tab And honestly if I have to be dead on with WS's subs, I don't think I'll be getting one again. I need something with some flexibility. |
Yeah, that will probably work fine. Just watch getting it wet since it's MDF.
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Thanks, happily the sub is tucked way up under the captains helm, and the boat is stored in a garage, so it should stay dry.
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With that sub and sitting it on the floor it'll maybe last half the summer.
I've got a resined then rhino lined box that's lifted off the floor with hdpe blocks. You should do all of the above to have it last. Also any decent driver will tear up the prefab boxes. It's only 1/2in thick so way to thin walled for any decent sub let alone in a boat. |
Going a long with what was said above, you have to take into consideration how the cheap automotive pre-fab enclosures are built. It's a long four-section piece that is pre-carpeted, gets V-grooves set in on a CNC then is folded up around the two end pieces and glued together. No hardware is used because it would show through the carpet. The seams will not last...period. A combination of non-lined automotive trunk liner covering a non-sealed water-soluable board is short term at best. These rarely make it through a season and the carpet only conceals the failed seams.
Also, the enclosure is tuned to a specific frequency independent of the woofer's parameters? Right. 32 Hz with ports that short? Right. That enclosure is a one note wonder. How much extra stress and fatique is imposed on the woofer in a bad box? A ton! Don't justify it just because it is inexpensive. Get a local shop to build you a real box. Isn't Jonyb close enough? David Earmark Marine |
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Haugy, you don't need to pay anyone to build a box for you, unless you simply don't want to do it yourself. If you can glew and screw -you're set.
That box from Wetsounds (above) is 1.64^ft, but after displacement of the subwoofer and port it's 1.5^ft. So 1.5^ft after displacement is probably what they recommend. I don't know why you'd want to tune @ 26hz, that figure is incorrect anyway. The actual tuning of that box is 30hz (still too low IMO). The port would have to be 15" long to be 26hz. I'd never use a straight port tube either, flared port tube would be the best option to reduce/eliminate port noise. I can help you out (for Free). If you give me your dimensions (allowing one dimension as a slight variable to be increased/decreased) I'll design a proper box for you. All you'd have to do is buy a port (preferably a Precision Port), go to Lowes/Home Depot with the cutlist, have them cut it, go home and assemble it. Here's a thread a made regarding box building. http://www.wakeworld.com/forum/showthread.php?t=792943 |
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