stubborn oil filter
 

Oil filter is stuck, 6.2L black scorpion, 02 Tige 20V. Filter wrench is no help and I would rather not hammer a screw driver through it yet, thats just way to messy and i dont want a bunch of oil in the locker! so, any one come up with some clever alternatives?

Maybe sinking a huge screw through it and put some silicon on the entrance/exit to keep it from leaking? still has a high potential for a mess!

What type of filter wrench are you using. I use one that looks like a big pair of channel locks. You can get a real good bite on it if you have room to use them.

joey a cup type filter works great ,because you can put a ratchet on it. also they make a three finger wrench with gears or a nylon strap wrench. i'm a snap on dealer.if you go to snapon.com and look under lubrication section you will see pictures of what i'm describing. then you can go to napa or your local auto parts store and get most styles.caution on the above pliers they will crush your filter. the more you can keep the shape the better chance of getting it off without punctureing it.:D

The OEM strap wrench in the post above is the one you want. It will never slip and uses 1/2 " ratchet for leverage.

For best results, no matter what type filter wrench you have, get the wrench as close to the base as possible. If you grip the filter away from the base, it is more likely to twist and collapse.

If your wrench is slipping, place a piece of doubled over sand paper between the filter and wrench. This will add a bit of extra grip.

Yes, the pliers type wrench can crush your filter, but you are not reusing it anyway. I had a filter that I broke the handle off of a normal strap wrench trying to get loose. The pliers took it off with ease.

;)not trying to discourage the use of pliers. just pointing out the possibility of oil leakage due to a crushed filter.like tige mike said up near the base the filter is stronger. i'm assuming op doesn't know how tight it could be.not saying one tool is better than another.:D

There are some great stuck olil filter threads at themalibucrew.com

Avoiding a stuck filter is why you ring the rubber gasket on the new filter with oil before installing it. Just be certain to do this on the new one.

The strap type filter wrench is probably going to be what you need at this point. You've probably already messed up the top of the filter trying ti get it off. Get as close to the base as you can. Making it come off easy next time is not so much coating the gasket with oil, though you still need to, but rather don't over tighten when installing the new one. A 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn by hand after gasket contacts the housing is all that's needed. Never use a filter wrench to tighten a filter.

Make sure you get the engine good and hot before trying to remove the filter. That usually helps.

Just an FYI...this does not always make a difference. I coat my gaskets liberally with oil every time and the filter is always a pain in the arse to get off for some reason. My truck however, I can always remove with my hand. Go figure....

How tight are people putting these filters on? All you need to do is hand tighten it and you don't even have to get it crazy tight with your hands.

My first choice for removing a oil filter is this:

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog

It comes in two different sizes (maybe 3 now, I didn't look, but I've had a large and small for more than 20 years now . The one shown is the small). It clamps well, has a wide band and pivots for tight spaces. You'll never need anything else. Order online or call your local Snap On dealer, find out who your local saleman is and meet him on his route.

As far as when things go bad, I use my super huge slip joint pliers which I doubt will fit in the boat. Like others say, just coat the seal on the new filter with some oil... old or new and then make sure the old seal came off with the old filter. If it stays; instant leak.

WAKEBOARDINGDAD thats the same filter wrench i use. but i have put on all my previous oil filters. the op here doesn't say that so we dont know if he put it on or how tight it is.that single strap wrench is the best selling oil filter wrench we have. and for all the naysayers there is a difference between SNAP ON TOOLS and the auto parts tools. ours work many times better. as far as cost that wrench is about 10.00 .

wow guys thanks for all the replies. when putting on the filter i did ring the gasket, and only used hands to tighten it, normally there is not this big of an issue but this time this sucker wont come off!! I have been using a the metal strap wrench like a few of you have suggested but it just keeps crumpling, ive tried at the top, bottom, middle, still aint working.
Would rather not run the motor to get it hot, all the oil is pumped out and i dont have a fake a lake.

maybe its screw driver time?

Save the screw driver for an absolute last! The screwdriver isn't a guarantee, I've ripped an oil filter in half using one. Very messy, oil was all over my garage floor. If you don't want to start the engine, try getting a torch on the base of the filter. You need HEAT and lots of LEVERAGE to remove stubborn parts.

I would steer clear of a torch. A heat gun would be a better option. If the metal or nylon strap isn't doing it for you then it's going to be the filter wrench that looks like a pair of channel locks or even the channel locks but the filter wrench that looks like channel locks has a longer serated area than channel locks. Problem will be if you have room for this type of tool. And over tightening when installing is why they are hard coming off. 1/2 to 3/4 turn after contact, that's all they need.

Its pretty easy to get too, so i have some room to work. I dont have channel locks that are big enough, how about this? http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/WES...r-Wrench-1EKJ5

I wouldnt feel comfortable using a torch down there, especially since oil is flammable haha....i just cant see that ending well.

I was thinking this one : http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/KD-...PL9?Pid=search

If you have some room, use a big (real big) screwdriver to lever against the edge of the ring where the filter seal is set. (the rolled edge) careful placement allows you to lever off a bolt or boss while applying torsional pressure at the same time as a little lifting pressure. 25 years bending wrenches in bilges and this has worked every time when other methods have failed. The ring is soft enough for the driver to get a good bite and with the right angle you can move it a tiny bit, then a bit more, then a bit more, then it's loose.

^^^^^^Wear some thick gloves trying that one because I can see some major busted knuckles when that screwdriver slips off...

WOW that must be one tough oil filter?

I feel your pain man. I've tried almost every trick n the book. Last time I left mine so loose I checked it for leaks every other trip out. My old Sanger wasnt to bad but one of my jet boats and my 06 V215 are horrible. It just seems like a gremlin lives in the engine and cranks the filter as tight as he can. I have every tool made to remove a fliter and have tried them all. I've only had to break out the screwdriver trick once. I'd definetly use that as a last resort. I alsmost tore the filter off on my jet boat which would have meant pulling the engine. I usually start with a rubber strap wrench then move to the oil filter pliers. Good luck, and be patient, I usually get pissed/frustrated pretty quick which doesnt help and can lead to bad decisions.

well it came off, just had to give it hell with the strap wrench. its mangled pretty bad.....was afraid it would fatigue to the point of leaking from the side, but never did!

also you can use the screwdriver like a chisel on the edge of the top of the filter.then strike it to get the filter moving. like baitkiller said once you get it to move it's easier after that.another trick when you install it is to use wheel bearing grease on the seal.i also would try a different brand of filter. i always use a c delco on gm motors and motorcraft on fords.i've also had sucess with fram.

Lots of good advice already, but when you finally get this one off hopefully sans screwdriver, hand tighten, then back off a 1/4 to 1/2 turn. I hate taking these off after the 'pros' crank them.

1. Go to the store and by some of the non-stick, grip plastic sheets they make for kitchen drawers. It looks like mesh.
2. Turn on your blower to exhaust the gas fumes.
3. While the blower is doing its job, wrap the filter in the grip plastic sheet and tape it to keep it in place.
4. Use a hair dryer on high and heat the top of the filter for 3 to 4 minutes. Leave your blower running. Make sure you have your filter wrench available and a large box wrench (like a 3/4 or 1" box).
5. Place a strap type oil filter wrench at the very top of the filter, up against the rolled edge of the filter.
6. If you have room, slide the box end of the wrench over the handle of the oil wrench to give you even more leverage.
7. apply slow and steady pressure.

Hope you get it off.

I did everything on here and mine still would not come off. It was so bad that when I was done, all that was left was the metal ring with the threads on it and I had to cold chisel that off. I bought my boat used last year and would like to kill whoever put that filter on. Hopefully it will be better next year since I only hand tightened the new one. Good luck and I hope your's is easy to get to. I would have never made it if mine wasn't one of the ones that sits up on top of the motor.

There definitely is a difference between cheap tools and Snap-On. I used to be a mechanic when I was kid and the wrench I suggested never failed me, but maybe twice. Both times, the channellocks did the job and I think I did the screwdriver trick once. I'm talking 100's of oil changes. It is important to use the correct size wrench. Too small and it wont fit. Too big and it over fulcrums and crushes instead of turning. Not to mention the cheap wrenches have too much slop.

Back to the quality tool issue. When I was a mechanic, I used Craftsman tools. That is what I could afford as a youngster. I thought they were all created equal until my open end wrench was tested one day. It was a 10mm I think and the bolt I was turning was causing my wrench to spread and was slipping. My mentor, who had a large assortment of Snap On tools told me to use his 10mm. He said there was a difference. I doubted it, but my bolt was being rounded by my attempts so I took him up on it. It worked. The jaws of the Snap On wrench did not spread and removed the bolt.

I would not use heat if I had a stuck filter. Rip all the cartridges off and then use a hammer and chisel on the leftover ring.