ok so here goes a question, who has weighted a Sanger V215 down? Pics of the wake if possible. I currently use the triple ballast and 1 600lbs sack starting at the drivers seat going back on the floor.

I ran 4 pop bags in the front, plus 2 tubes of concrete that weigh about 60lbs= 220lbs in the front, rear lockers I had 260-300 in each locker. This is on top of the stock triple ballast. The wake was perfect in my option. <img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/353331.jpg" alt="Upload">

In Scott Henderson's 215 we ran On top of the triple ballast... 12 pop bags in the back (6 on each side) 500lbs sac on front, 500lbs sac in the middle and a 250lbs buddy on the back seat. The wake was fairly big comparable to the X-1 wake that we ride daily. it might have needed a little more weight in the front though. We were testing the wake if we decided to always run this much weight it would mostly be lead., <BR> Al <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/353335.jpg" alt="Upload"> <BR>I know this dosn't show the wake well but it's all I got

ok let me ask this right now with only the additional 600lb sack, with me going and filling and draining all day, where would you guys recommend putting it for a first try? My buddy last night (rode his X-2) said more towards the front? he/we was running 2 250lbs in the front lockers and a 600lbs in the front walkway inclusing his standard ballast. The wake was awesome, I had a great time and adjusted quickly from mine to his, though I think his PP is of riding at 24 on his felt very sllooww, I ride at23.5 on mine..

Kenny, <BR> <BR>If you liked Tate's wake when you last rode with him all he added was 400 lbs of pop bags to the nose over the stock triple ballast. Just that extra weight in the nose really made a big difference. <BR> <BR>Tom

We have the same wake, he rode with me the one day we put the 600lbs by the driver but thats all we did. <BR> <BR>Do you have any pics by chance? <BR> <BR>So he added nothing in the rear? I thought too much in the nose would counter act making less wake.. <BR> <BR>(Message edited by ghostrider_2 on August 04, 2006)

I was just looking at wakeside for maybe adding a 150 in each rear locker so I don't lose sapce and just use the 600 in the nose. Maybe I don't need the 150's?

I know there are more than this that own a Sanger.....

^^ you are so rite. the problem is... mines not here yet. will be on wednesday tho. cant wait.

lol i cant give up my secret recipe! no i found something interesting last time i rode just not sure if it was a fluke or not but i took allot of lead out of my boat and it seemed the wake was bigger.. one more test and ill report back with pics!

lead out of where?

Wow less weight and a bigger wake, that's top secret stuff there fo sho!<img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/clipart/lol.gif" border=0>

Kenny, <BR> <BR>I know I'm not running a sanger but with my Vdrive (Supreme v220) I have found that I need to maintain a 60/40 balance from rear weight to front weight 60% in the rear and 40% up front with the people being in the middle. Also I count the 600 lbs engine as part of my total rear weight. It seems to work pretty well with my boat. <BR> <BR>The only real issue I have with my Supreme is when I am saced out I have to run at 23 to 24 mph depending and most people do not like to ride at that speed. I have found though that i get a pretty good wake at 19 to 20 mph with just the front sacs filled, so that works pretty good for the rides who do not want to ride so fast. Also fully saced out I like only 4 or 5 people in the boat, seems to work best that way. <BR> <BR>Hope this helps you some. <BR> <BR>Tom <BR> <BR>PS. How is the new house and life up north hope alls good.

Ronnie &amp; Allen, <BR> <BR>Those pictures of your wakes are SWEET! Clean all the way through. No wash out on the top. You can spend more for a "bu" but why? Awesome guys...thanks.

i took most of the lead out of the back and just have the factory ballast plus 100 pounds of lead or so on each side of the engine.. plus a whole bunch in the nose.. i need to add it all up and figure it out, but ill report back after a evening set this week..

alot of pics to please......

What about wake plate position. Do you guys have the adjustable or fixed? Anybody with the fixed adjusted up from the factory position?

fixed, never touched, I have never played with a wake play and I never had a reason to yet either.

If the plate is lifting the rear of the boat won't you need to put more weight in the rear to compensate? If you can run the plate up you might be able to run less weight with a same sized steeper wake?

that makse sense but how much to you or can you change a fixed but just turning the threads?

I haven't seen the sanger ones but I know other plates have quite a bit of adjustment with a double thread type system.

Sanger offers an adjustable wakeplate. I was on my buddys supra 20ssv and you can really see the diffenence in the wake when the plate is up or down. The supra is 20'8" long and has a 95" beam.

SO if I have never touched min should I raise it lower it, and how much?

If you bring the plate up the wake should get bigger and steeper but boat will take longer to plane and may porpose at high speeds. I have no idea how much to move it but I would raise it in 1/2" increments and see what happens.

Kenny, yours is a fixed plate so just leave it at factory setting. There is only maybe 30 degrees of total adjustment any way, (15 up &amp; 15 down). Sanger sets them slightly down to counteract the "porpoising" effect. Porpoising is more of an issue in a v-drive, vs. direct drive. You'd just be adding another variable to the equasion anyway. Figure out how much weight you are willing to run and depending on riding speed, split it up at around 70% front, 30% rear roughly, and adjust from there and you'll be fine.

Just looking to learn more..

i have mine adjusted all the way up..

When did you adjust it richard, did it coincide with the removal of lead and increase of wake size?

rich any pics of the adjustment and wake?

As an aside I had an idea to build a control box to interface PP to an adjustable plate. What I wanted was two preset positions, one for cruising/planing up and one for riding. When the PP is locked in at set point the plate moves up to build the wake size, when PP is disengauged the plate moves down for quick plane up and no porpose cruising. I asked PP if there was a signal I could pick up from the control module and they said no but there were working on a system to do this for 07.

The only adj I would consider making to you fixed ride plate on the sangers would be to correct any leasting problems from one side to the other and over all nose rise at desired speed. At least that is how we used to use a plate like that on our racing Vdrive back in the day. the plate should allow for fine tuning the overall ride of the boat. Should you decide to make any adj. to that fixed plate be sure to mark your turn buckles before making any adj. so you have a reference point to keep track of the adj you have made and be able to return it to the factory setting should you need too. If you loose your reference point it can be very hard to get it back to the same setting again. I have spent many hours trying to get a fixed plate working properly once you start messing with it.

Rather than putting more sacks around the boat I wanted to keep things neat. I just added a few bags of kids play sand in the plastic bags. 2 50lb bags on each side in the far back. 2 50lb bags on each side under the front seat. That's 200lbs in the front and 200lbs in the back total. Filled stock ballast. Amazing wake. No impact on space. Will post some pics next time I go out. And, because it's really not that much more weight, the higher speed wake is not really affected. I tried all types of bags in the boat, nothing works this good. IMO. Plus, total cost for my upgrade - $16.00 <BR> <BR>Adjustable wake plate.... Up when we ride. Down when the chicks ride. Works nice at high speeds as well.

Just got back from a week vacation on New Melones and tried out our additional ballast. #450 bow sack all the way forward and an additional 250 total in rear compatments. Big sharp wake that my son who is an intermediate rider loved. Me still being a beginner had to put the adjustable wake plate to 25% OR I found myself going too big and landing hard in the flats which was tearing up my ankles. Before that additional same as Bert all the way up for the guys and all the way down for the chicas. The wake plate all the way down does wonders for riding in the chop and at higher speeds.

BTW, when we were riding behind Scott's boat we were running with 25% wakeplate to keep the boat from porpoising. I think we could dial it further, but the wake was very good. Slight deceiving. Didn't look big, but delivered huge pop. Rich's set-up sounds aout right. If you weigh just the nose you can actually get a smaller wake with more weight. IMO you have to balance it out in the back or you just push more water down instead of creating big, meaty wake peaks. <BR> <BR>Nice boats though. I think we'll be spending some more time dialing if we get a chance.

I run a 400 lb sack in each locker. Then I run right around 600lb of pop bags in the nose. With about 300lb in the mid ship on top of the front ballast full. Good wake with nice transition and nice pop. I set the fised plate at 1/4" up from 0 degrees. The wake plate does good for adding shape to the wake. The only problem is the more weight you add the more plate you need to use to keep it form curling over.

"I have spent many hours trying to get a fixed plate working properly once you start messing with it." Man, ain't that the truth! Adjustable on the fly is one thing... but fixed, leave it! Sanger HAS done this boat building thing a time or two before.

rich you never said how much you have in the nose?

I am running stock triple ballast with a launch pad 450 in the walk through as far up as I can get it. For the rear additional I have 4 six gallon water jugs that fit perfectly in the rear compartment. The jugs make it easy to move a little weight around. Also just wanted to add when I bought my boat my son was talking about adjusting the fixed wake plate which I didn't think was a good idea so I forked out for the hydraulic one. The fixed one is screwed to the bottom of the hull and I don't think it is hinged so making any adjustment might stress mounting points.

sorry I was meaning the other rich (coop)..... <BR>but thank you cause that does help

Bert any pics yet? <BR>I stopped by Home Depot and found the sand you are talking about.

Here is a shot of a 06 v 215 with stock ballast + 480 in lead, the rider is @ 80 feet. <BR> <BR> <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/355048.jpg" alt="Upload"> <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/355049.jpg" alt="Upload">

where did you place the lead, thanks for the pics.. <BR> <BR>boat speed?

We were running around 22 - 23 I need to check on exactly how it was setup( not my boat ). I will be riding again on this boat later this week / Thursday night. <BR> <BR>Aaron

Thats my boat above that Aaron posted pics of. I posted the weight we ran that day up top. It could use one or 2 more pop bags in the rear!!!

"If you weigh just the nose you can actually get a smaller wake with more weight." ...forgive me but, just when would this come in handy??