So my trailer just barely drags on my driveway as I pull it in and out. I have lowered the tounge of the trailer on the stinger about as much as I'd like but the back end of the trailer still drags. Have any of you ever lifted your trailer?

ive seen people weld casters on the back of the trailer so it will roll on them when it gets that close to the ground im sure someone will chime in with pics

Is the trailer level when it's hooked to the tow vehicle?

On easytow ski boat trailers used in Australia we often swap the springs so they sit on top of the axle instead of underneath. It lifts the trailer by about 2 inches. Easytows also use the rear dolley wheels

I had the same problem with my 89 trailer. It turned out the springs were sagging.I replaced all the springs and hardware. It raised the rear about 2". It also improved towing stability.

The trailer is slightly lower in the front then the rear when connected to the truck <BR> <BR>I'll take a look at casters/rollers <BR> <BR>Thanks guys

I have the same problem and I am going to change the axle from an undersprung to an oversprung. The only cost is my labor. I measured and I will get about 4 inches of lift. I'll let you know how it turns out.

Only down side to flipping your axles in now you have to back your truck into the water further to launch and load your boat on trailer as boat now sits 4-5" higher. Going from spring under to spring over usually gains 4 or 5" you have 2" of spring pack and about 2" axle tubes for 3500lb axles. If your prop guard is just dragging a little just use the wheels that way you don’t have a problem if you go to a lake with shallow ramp angle.

I recently just had to replace all of the leafs on my trailer because one of the original mono leafs had snapped. Being that they don't make mono leafs anymore for this very reason I went with a new multi leaf. By doing so it raised the trailer 2-3 inches. You could add a block/spacer between the leaf mount and the axle just like they do in the rear end of a truck or have the leafs re arced or add another to accomplish the same thing. Adding a block would probably be the cheapest and easiest way to lift.

Dave, <BR>I agree that the lift block would be the easiest and cheapest way but I'm not sure where to get one

I looked at the option of using the lift block, but I think a lift block will only work if your axle is oversprung (springs on top of the axle), if your axle is undersprung, you will have to convert to oversprung first. <BR> <BR>If anybody has a way to add blocks to an undersprung axle, I would love to know. I have been thinking about it, but haven't come up with a way to do it.

You could always use the ghetto block. Back in the day they used to use hockey pucks. As long as your U bolts are tight they aren't going anywhere. <BR> <BR>Any parts store may have a lift block that may work for your trailer.