I backed my 4,500 pound boat into my Shred Stixx Jamako! This board is NOT the Poly U core and Polyester resin model. Using a polyester resin based repair can cause further damage. In this repair I'm going to show my procedure for working with epoxy and glass. <BR> <BR>The project: <BR> <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/559019/444347.jpg" alt="Upload">

It's a little hard to see, but I actually broke the stringer. The deck of the board remained intact, but the bottom was severly cracked exposing the blank and as I indicated above the stringer was broken. <BR> <BR>If this were a more minor repair without any delamination or structural damage some epoxy with microballoons would, no doubt, have been sufficient. I wanted to add some structural integrity to ensure I didn't snap the nose off in use. <BR> <BR>I opted to epoxy a e-glass fiberglass patch over the offending area. <BR> <BR>The first step is to prepare the area. Much like body work, I carefully pulled the dented out as close as possible to it's original shape. Including twisting the nose back into alignment. Then I sanded the entire area to give the epoxy and patch a good grip. Finally wiping the surface down with a tack rag to remove any dust. It's not a good picture, but the prepped board. <BR> <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/559019/444357.jpg" alt="Upload">

The supplies for the epoxy. My favorite for mixing is a paper plate <IMG SRC="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/clipart/happy.gif" ALT=":-)" BORDER=0> Toss it when done. <IMG SRC="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/clipart/happy.gif" ALT=":-)" BORDER=0> I also mix with a tongue depressor. I also split one depressor in to a tool I could use to force epoxy into the gap in the stringer and under the sections of the break that had delaminated from the core. <BR> <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/559019/444361.jpg" alt="Upload">

I had a scrap of e-glass left over from a project, but it is easy to acquire at places like Tap Plastics. This piece was 3.7 oz and will be adequate for a patch. I prefer to leave the existing board intact and merely overlay, rather than cutting back the damaged glass. Personally I am all thumbs, so I do more damage when trying to cut back and fill in <IMG SRC="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/clipart/happy.gif" ALT=":-)" BORDER=0> <BR> <BR>When working with fiberglass...gloves will save you from itching later and sharp pinking sheers will leave a smooth edge for laminating. <BR> <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/559019/444365.jpg" alt="Upload">

I cut a patch big enough to cover the entire area, including wrapping around the rails. <BR> <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/559019/444368.jpg" alt="Upload">

It seems I didn't get a picture, but I mixed the 1 hour epoxy and then worked carefully under the cracked existing fiberglass, as well as down into the split in the stringer. To ensure that I wouldn't have any water seeping into the crack, I ran a bead of epoxy along the cracks before laying down my patch. I spread a very thin layer of epoxy down on the surface. <BR> <BR>Here I have laid down the patch and started wetting it and working the epoxy into the glass and removing excess. <BR> <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/559019/444372.jpg" alt="Upload">

All laminated and curing. After the epoxy is fully cured I'll sand it smooth and then polish it as best I can. <IMG SRC="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/clipart/happy.gif" ALT=":-)" BORDER=0> <BR> <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/559019/444376.jpg" alt="Upload">