To get my dual axel trailer to ride level, I have to RAISE the ball 2" above the receiver hitch. I flipped the ball on a standard 2" drop ball mount and this gave me a perfectly level ride with no sway. I recently took my boat in for service and the service manager jumped all over me ("you can't do that"). Is this bad or should I go look for a ball mount that is specifically designed for a rise rather than a drop. I don't know if really is a difference. Thanks.

I do the same thing with my boat never had any issues. Its a pretty hurkey drop hitch. <BR>I hate seeing a trailer nose diving behind a tow vehicle where the front tire looks like its going to hit the fender and the rear tire is 4 inches off the fender.

Lots of people do that. It makes no difference from a structural point. Your service manager just thinks it looks funny.

You can flip it over. Most manufacturers say on there website it is ok. You can Do it and there is no problem with doing it.

Most are deigned to ride either way. <BR> <BR>The top of the ball should be 18" from the ground for most trailers to ride level. Figure your rise/drop from there, but be sure to figure the sag of the tongue weight of the boat.

here is a link it actually tell you the drop and the rise if you flip it over <a href="http://www.drawtite.com/cliiiivbamo.html" target="_blank">http://www.drawtite.com/cliiiivbamo.html</a>

just had the same issue with my service manager. You have to remember how many boats he pulls, compared to you. And if you are putting more weight on your front axle than rear, you are building excess heat in front trailer tires. And as firestone has thought us HEAT = FAILURE. <BR> <BR>Hope this helps

Def check with the receiver mfg just to make certain they designed it for both ways.

I dont see a thing wrong with it. Dont see how it makes a diff to the draw bar/hitch or tow vehicle. <BR> <BR>I've got one set up that way that I use if we load the back up with camping gear for weekend out of town. Puts the trailer back level when I I have a little more weight then usual in the back.

The difference is the weld is loaded differently, and you want to make sure they designed for that. Beefy things aren't always as strong as they seem when LCF/HCF comes into play. <BR> <BR>That being said, they probably idiot proof the recievers, but if he is asking the question here, it is probably worth his piece of mind to get a straight answer from the mfg.

This reminds me of this Pontoon boat I saw last week driving down the freeway. This picture doesn't do it justice. The hitch was so low the rear trailer tires looked as if they were barely making any contact. I see this all the time with Pontoon boats too. <BR> <BR><img src="http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/564824.jpg" alt="Upload">

I bought one of these for my truck, and a adjustable drop hitch for the hummer! IMO one of the best hitches on the market. <BR> <BR>• Machined from one piece of solid aluminum, no joints or welds to fatigue <BR>• SAE Class V rated for 2,000 lb. Tongue &amp; 14,000 lb. Trailer Weight <BR> <BR> <BR><a href="http://www.trucktoysautomotive.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;cPath=2_3&amp ;products_id=9" target="_blank">http://www.trucktoysautomotive.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;cPath=2_3&amp ;products_id=9</a> <BR> <BR><a href="http://www.trucktoysautomotive.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;products_id=4 " target="_blank">http://www.trucktoysautomotive.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;products_id=4 </a>

I agree with timmy, but all of the 2" class III reciever hitches I have ever seen say 2"drop/1" rise or 3" drop/2" rise, etc and are perfectly safe to use in that configuration. If you are unsure about yours then I would try to verify it with the mfg or go and pick up a new one for $20 that you are sure is rated for it.

My dealer told me to make sure it had the gusset on the hitch if you are going to use for a raise

The 2 inch hitch I have can go up or down. I believe it is a reese. Half the trucks I see trailering have the hitches turned up. Not sure what the service manager is talking about.

That service manager has no clue as many people have already stated. There is a reason they make hitches the way they do, not all vehicles will have the same ride height, especially under load. Have you seen the size of drop hitches they make for lifted trucks? I would be more worried about something with a 12" drop than something with an 1" or 2" rise. You should have zero problems towing the way are. I've towed boats on a flipped hitch plenty of times and never had problems. If you are truly that concerned, directly contact the manufacturer of your hitch, don't rely on the service manager's word.