Adding 90 elbow - Will it restrict water flow
 

It was a pain in the a$$ to winterize the boat last year. There was no easy way to get the antifreeze in the boat. I had to take the raw water hose off and feed it in that way. The previous owner glued the hose as well as a screw clamp. I had to cut the raw water hose off. Now I just want to put a ball valve and a tee inline so I can attach a hose next winter without taking everything apart. There is not much space to do this and I will need to add a 90 degree elbow to get back to the engine. Right now it is an eased swoop and (1) 90 to get to the motor. Next it will be a straight shot with (2) 90's. Think that will restrict the rate of flow? 2007 Sanger V210 Thanks

Yes, adding a 90 is like adding 5' of hose, each.
What about adding a fitting and 5/8" hose straight up from the intake near the thermostat. Then you could just pour it into the block with a funnel.
I don't add antifreeze to my Mercruiser with two heaters. But I am careful getting the water out at the end of the season.

ask me after next semester....I havent taken fluid dynamics yet!!!

When you say rate of flow,do you mean suction flow,pressure flow or gravity flow?

Avoid any class with dynamics in the name! Things are so much simpler when they don't move.

Robert T: Flow of raw water through the hull intake into the engine from the impeller. So it would be suction flow.

The diameter will effect the flow more than the 90 degrees will.I would have a pan with 3 gallons of RV antifreeze in it and use same inside diameter hose for my t ball shutoff and 90 fittings.

An engineer here who graduated. Fluid dynamics is hard, but heat transfer I had a much harder time with.

With that being said why are you adding anti freeze? I just fully drain my boat. Air wont freeze, expand and crack your block. Also, save your antifreeze money for gas, went up 10 cents in my area today.

A 90 won't restrict flow enough to make a difference, the factor of safety that is built into the transfer of energy between the raw water and the block is great enough to allow the change in flow.

I would be more concerned with another point of failure. Or another plastic part that could potentially break from heat cycling fatigue and sink your boat. It wouldnt be the first time abs broke from being heat cycled, a better plastic would be nylon 6,6 glass filled, like what they use in automotive under hood structural parts.

Edit:

What about something like this? Far away from the motor?

http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=DP7

I am a hydraulic engineer specializing in heating systems. Generally speaking an elbow which has a reduced diameter, ie elbow fits inside the pipe reducing diameter = 1m extra length (3.3ft) if the pipe goes inside the elbow ie same sized ID as pipe then = 1/2mtr extra length. Either way it won't make any significant difference, especially on a mercruiser motor which has a huge raw water pump.

I am definitely learning that right now.....Thermodynamics and dynamics right now haha. definitely interesting stuff, but its pretty hard, im still liking it though!

its cool how many egrs there are on this site!! Glad you guys are chiming in :D

If it has a heater pull the input line to the heater core and add anti-freeze with a funnel through that fiiting on the intake as stated above. If no heater is on the boat, pull the plug in that same location and add anti-freeze. I only use anti-freeze when the boat is put away for extended periods. The only reason I do this is to prevent rust insdie of the block.

Why not just get one of those plunger fake a lakes and put a short section of hose into the anit freeze?