Guys, I am looking at adding 4 bullet 770's and am considering a JL Audio HD 600.4 and Alpine PDX4.150 - the one feature I do want is the volume control knob that is available on the JL Audio, apparently you cant get that with the alpine. But, I like the Alpines small footprint. <BR> <BR>Upon investigating, it looks like you can add volume control to any amp using this thing: <a href="http://www.woofersetc.com/p6457/RLC--Scosche-Remote-Level-Control.htm" target="_blank">http://www.woofersetc.com/p6457/RLC--Scosche-Remote-Level-Control.htm</a> <BR> <BR>I know we have some serious stereo guys on here, can anyone tell me if this thing would work, and work well??? I dont want a "hokie" set up... <BR> <BR>Thanks!

Most guys use the PAC LC-1 and think it works good. <BR> <BR>I have one, but haven't really used it for more than turning tower speakers on and off, so i can't really comment on its clarity. <BR><a href="http://www.amazon.com/PAC-Remote-Amplifier-Level-Controller/dp/B0002J226O" target="_blank">http://www.amazon.com/PAC-Remote-Amplifier-Level-Controller/dp/B0002J226O</a> <BR> <BR>That one looks like the same idea, although i would stick to teh one everyone is using. <BR> <BR>(Message edited by dhcomp on December 24, 2009)

I have the HD600/4 running 4 bullets. I just got it all in and the one thing different with the level control vs. the volume control I had in my last boat with the EQ is I don't have full range control. If I have the deck volume set at 10 then I can turn the tower from zero to 10. With the EQ I could turn the boat speakers down and crank up the tower, whereas now I will have to keep the in boat speakers on as the level control on the HD900/5 running the sub and the in boat speakers only controls the subs level. Not sure if I will be satisfied with the level controls although I didn't have to run a bunch of RCA cables back and forth from the passenger glovebox to the driver helm.

The Scosche is and does the exact same thing as the PAC, a potentiometer or pot is all they are and there are many varieties available, you could even go to Radio Shack and build your own if you were so inclined.

Rich, I think if you had a separate amp for the sub you would be OK. That way you could run the head unit at 10 then dial up or down the tower, interiors and sub independently. That's precisely what I am looking at doing. I just don't know if the pot in the JL amp would be superior to the PAC or Scosche potentiometer.

If your gonna have three separate controls just get an EQ. I was looking to minimize the wiring and RCA runs but if I wanted to do a bunch of things I would get an EQ like the Wetsound that did it all.

The wetsounds is $300. These pots are $15 each. Is it worth the extra money for the wetsounds? I was checking it out but can't see why it would be worth the added cost. I don't really need the microphone...

The WS420 is also a line driver (increasing the voltage of your preamp output to your amps), a two zone EQ, PA, and additional AUX input, in addition to being three pots.

Gotta figure out what your trying to do with all the controls and how much trouble it is to run the wiring to where you want to mount them. For me personally I was not so concerned about the price difference but the ease of not having to run a bunch of RCAs and the sound quality the lengths of the runs would have on the system. I dont know if I will like not having full range volume control an EQ would give me til I get the boat on the water and try it all out. I hope it works as its easier having just one knob to control the tower speakers. Another thought, it might be harder to mount several different pots vs. one EQ. Only you can determine if its worth it. This is all just my .02

DW, <BR> <BR>The PAC or Scosche controls are fine when the source unit and amplifiers are on the driver's side or when at least one of these components are on the driver's side. But, when both the source unit and amplifiers are on the passenger side, you must use long 'to and from' RCA runs. <BR> <BR>A much better route to go in this case is with the JL Audio CL-RLC that uses a remote-mounted control in conjunction with a line-driver. This way, you will not extend the RCA audio path. The JL Audio CL-RLC will work with any amplifier. <BR> <BR>Rich, <BR> <BR>Supplement your two HD-RLCs with a single CL-RLC and you'll have triple zone controls at your fingertips without running long RCAs. Plus, if you prefer, you can have the CL-RLC control all of the HD900/5 inputs so that only two controls operate all speakers. The control for the 'in boat' speakers can control the subwoofer simultaneously and you'll still be able to tweak the sub with an independent control when you choose to. This set-up will be cleaner with a lower noise floor as compared to any EQ, particularly when you've avoided all the extra RCAs. <BR> <BR>David <BR>Earmark Marine

I use PAC LC-1 to control my amp... and so do my two buddies.. they work good..

Here is my question.....I'm planning on adding a 485 along with my four pro 80's. Along with this I'm adding another syn 2 amp which will bring my total number of amps up to 4. I currently have an eq that allows me to adjust the volume of tower, in boat, and subs; how will this work if I add another amp because the eq will only allow for three amps or do I need to split a channel on the eq? Would it be a huge advantage on going with a WS as opposed to the cheap kenwood eq? Thanks for the help <BR>Chris

Chris, <BR> <BR>The WetSounds EQ has plenty of voltage for you to split up the outputs without audible degradation. <BR> <BR>We've used Kenwood EQs, which are fine, to provide more voltage and control over a single preamp source unit. <BR> <BR>In consideration of the WetSounds' marine-specific features and for the application as you've described it, I highly recommend the WetSounds EQ. <BR> <BR>David <BR>Earmark Marine

David, <BR>Thanks for your help. I assume I wouldn't have a problem running all four amps with the WS? <BR> <BR>Chris